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National Geographic: African Odyssey (1998)

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National Geographic: African Odyssey (1998)

Post by bunniefuu »

Two American scientists,

Delia and Mark Owens, have lived dream

many people share

but few ever realize,

the opportunity to

explore wildest Africa.

Alone in the vast

Kalahari Desert in Botswana,

they studied brown hyenas and lions.

They made unique discoveries

about both species and their prey,

which helped them

develop an overall plan

for the conservation needs

of the Kalahari.

Unavoidably,

they often lived with danger.

Get to the back. Get to the back.

After seven years in the Kalahari,

Delia and Mark returned home to

continue their studies for

graduate degrees at the

University of California at Davis,

where they organized their

research for publication.

...keep a lot of different skulls.

Yeah.

They also wrote a best-selling book,

CRY OF THE KALAHARI,

About their experiences,

a book that brought them

into conflict with

powerful political forces.

When the book was excerpted in

LIFE magazine

and condensed in READER'S DIEST,

Delia and Mark became

instant celebrities.

They were welcomed as returning heroes

in Delia's hometown

of Thomasville, Georgia.

Thank you for coming by. Hello.

Thanks for coming by.

Good to see you.

Thank you.

What's this one about?

Well, it's about what it was like to

live in isolation for seven years

and then come back to this.

Now their lives

are tied to conservation

and the research it requires.

After four years in the United State,

they returned to the Kalahari

and a National Geographic film crew

went with them.

Their fortunes over the next year

illuminate the painful choices

that face conservationists

in Africa today.

When Delia and Mark Owens first

entered the bush in 1974.

They began with only

the packs on their backs.

That'll do it.

Later, as the scope

of their research expanded,

the Frankfurt Zoological Society

provided them

with full financial support

and an airplane for radio tracking.

We've got pins here.

We can slip the door off easily.

Oh, really? No more nails?

No more nails. A brand new prop.

I mean it's virtually a new airplane.

Now they pick up their vehicles

in Johannesburg. South Africa.

It's 700miles to the Kalahari.

Delia has to drive it without Mark.

...you don't have any gauges

until that switch is on. Okay?

All right.

Yep.

Drive safely. Have a good trip.

I'll see you up there. Bye, bye, love.

Remember, I'll be flying

out the track if you're

not up there by Friday night.

Right. Okay. Friday night.

It's seen 11 years since the Owenses

first made the trip to Botswana.

There, in a

the Central Kalahari Game Reserve

in a place called Deception Valley,

Delia and Mark first began

their seven years study.

Mark's flight will take four hours.

Delia's drive will take four days.

Leaving the last settlements behind,

Delia runs all day

on a track she and Mark cleared

when they first entered the Kalahari.

It was almost exactly 11 years ago

that we came down this track

for the first time ever.

And we wanted to find a wilderness

that had not been

affected in any way by man

a free, open place that was like

all of Africa used to be.

We wanted to identify the conservation

problems that it had

and then be able to

make recommendations

of how it should be saved.

During their last years in the

game reserve, a severe drought began.

Mark knows that the animals

in the Kalahari

have continued

to suffer in their absence.

My mixed feelings are, I think,

come from knowing the Kalahari,

loving the Kalahari

as we love the Kalahari,

and knowing it as we know it,

and yet understanding

that it has severs problem

in terms of threats to its survival.

And we're coming back to see

what we can do to ensure

that future generations

come to love the area

and its wildlife the way we love it.

The Owenses made their camp

on an ancient, dry riverbed.

Slight depressions support islands

of trees that offer protection

from the searing sun and wind.

Oh, great! Success.

There's Deception Valley.

Does it ever need rain.

First time we came here it

was covered with springbok

and gemsbok

and beautiful green grass.

Many scientists yearn

to do research in Africa.

But only a miniscule few ever succeed

in raising the necessary funds.

To get started 11 years ago,

Delia and Mark auctioned off

all their possessions

and flew to Africa with just $6,000.

Their early research won the respect

of their peers and a first grant

from the National Geographic Society.

Other grants then helped them conduct

the most important studies of

hyenas and lions ever

undertaken in the Kalahari.

At the same time,

their role as conservationists led to

conflicts with the Botswana government

conflicts that would eventually

threaten their scientific careers.

As Delia nears their former

tree-island camp,

she wonders it has been

destroyed by storm or fire.

How you doing? You made it huh?

Yeah.

I did too. How you doing?

I got stuck in the mud.

Did you really?

It wasn't that bad a thing.

You would have gotten right out,

but it took me three tries.

Guess what I have.

What?

A complete stereophonic sound system.

For calling the lions?

To call the lions.

Well, that will be fun.

We can play that tonight...

I also have a male and female mating.

Mating. That's...

Well, well, well.

I wondered how I'd mind the dust

and the grime and everything,

but it looks bloody beautiful,

doesn't it?

Oh, it looks great. It looks great.

It really does.

I mean how could you

have a better kitchen?

Oh, I tell you.

With great relief they find

their camp still intact.

They can begin their work immediately.

The dry season is beginning,

and as grasses on the riverbed

have started to wither,

antelope will disperse

and lions will follow

making it much harder for

Delia and Mark to find them.

I was saying

that after the initial reaction,

it feels great to get back.

But then you look out.

It really looks so bleak. I was just...

We've got to start looking for

lions right away and hyenas.

Yeah, because the lions

are going to be here and gone.

I mean, very quickly.

Yeah.

A last storm sweeps the dry river

and distant shrub-covered dunes.

Dawn brings the zoologists

a welcome sound.

Mark will try to locate

the lion from the air

as Delia pursues him on the ground.

It's amazing that

even year after year

the same lions use the

same trees to lie up in,

and even new lions

that take over from old lions

use the same trees again.

Mark, do you see him?

Negative, love.

Mark searches a tree island

where he knows from previous experience

Kalahari lions are likely to lie up

in the shade for the day.

Did you see him?

It looks thick from the ground,

but up there, I don't know.

I may be wrong

but I think that may be what

the springbok were running from

when we were up there trying

to find him.

I think he came out on the opposite

side of the island... outfoxed us.

We'll have to take another

drive up there.

Tracking the lion takes

them far from camp,

so they spend the night

near their last sighting.

I love this Swiss army knife.

You can't open it unless you split it.

Here, you want me to do it?

Yeah, you open it.

Which one? This one?

That one...

The woman's a genius.

Brute force.

Mark is up before dawn.

He and Delia reason

that male lions in the vicinity

may feel challenged by the sound of

another lion and come to investigate.

I don't believe this.

There's a bloody lion out here.

It's actually worked.

We ought to sit down

and make very little commotion

because he's looking at us.

Yeah, we know we don't want to

frighten him away,

now that he's here.

Yeah, let's just sit down and not move.

Male lions roar to establish claim

to a pride

and sometimes fight to the death

to defend territory.

This lion searches for the intruder.

Now Delia and Mark will try to get

close enough to dart him

and collar him with

a radio transmitter.

Then he can be tracked systematically

to determine his range size,

social contacts, and prey selection.

The lion has left the river plain.

They follow his tracks called spoor.

We're coming to the point

where he went in,

so we should see his

spoor pretty quickly.

It was up here.

He may still be in there.

Mark has seen him, Mark has seen him.

I should have marked the spot

where we lost him.

I didn't think of it.

We had him all that way.

For half the night

Delia and Mark try to get close enough

to the lion to dart him.

For three days the lion eludes them.

The crust on the sand is

bunched up ahead of the foot.

So the foot was falling quite quickly.

So you can see he was

a little bit concerned about us still.

He's here somewhere.

He's got to be here somewhere.

I wish I could find his spoor.

I just got to keep going.

I think maybe...

If we can get to that clearing

and get set up,

maybe we can attract him into it.

I don't know what good

it will do though.

I mean, he has to come up...

he has to be approachable.

Well, if we get a dart in him,

at least we can track him.

Yeah.

Frustrated in their pursuit,

they try to attract him

right up to the truck.

Ignoring Delia and Mark,

the lion trots by,

looking for his supposed rival.

Finally he realizes that the roars are

coming from the vehicle.

The lion focuses on Mark.

Head on, he presents an almost

impossible target for a dart shot.

In the twenty minute before

the drug takes effect,

the lion wanders off.

Mark follows his tracks to find him.

When lions are immobilized,

the stop blinking.

Salve keeps their eyes from drying out

We'll have to use a bigger bolt.

Delia and Mark whisper to avoid

upsetting other lions in the area.

Keep your eyes peeled.

We've got company here somewhere.

They're bound to come

over here and have a look.

Yeah, but he's fine.

I'm going to go get the

shotgun out here, Delia.

Okay.

Or you could get the dart g*n.

Delia, look at the hyena.

Boy, feel the muscles in his neck.

Tooth eruption and wear help the

Owenses determine a lion's age.

He doesn't look like an old lion.

It will be interesting to compare

this measurement with the one

we took just a second ago.

Look at the size of that paw.

I can put both my hands together

and you can't see them underneath.

Mark, there's a lion right here.

Get to the car.

I'm going to back off.

If she comes in, I'll dart her.

She's probably going to find the male.

I think she has the male's scent.

Knowing that the pride

will soon break up,

Mark darts other lions to keep

track of as many as possible.

Collaring each lion

takes several hours.

As the night wears on,

Delia and Mark become

giddy with fatigue.

You've been wanting

to hit me in the nose all day.

You finally got here.

Mark, try to act like

a sophisticated scientist!

We have three lions darted.

Another pride.

One adult male and two young females,

so it was worth it.

Nights like this bring Delia

and Mark deep satisfaction.

Using radio collars

to maintain contact,

they will spend many other long

nights recording observations.

They plot lion movements

from radio data.

Through such painstaking work,

they have discovered that,

unlike lions observed elsewhere,

prides in the Kalahari disband

in the dry season,

and individual lions

range over as much as

Their movements present a

conservation problem:

Hunters and ranchers

sh**t many of the lions

in the Owenses study group when they

wander outside the reserve.

The Kalahari is so dry

that most of the time carnivores

must obtain all their

moisture from prey.

The prey, in turn, get their moisture

mainly from melons,

leaves, and grasses.

Mark, look at... If we sit tight,

maybe she'll come in.

They circle a carcass several times

because they can't afford

to make a mistake that the lions

are still close by,

because lions often k*ll brown

hyenas in a situation like this.

This is such a rare opportunity.

I mean most people living in Botswana

have never even seen a brown hyena.

They're so rare and they're

also so secretive and shy

that usually they run off

when they see a truck.

For the size that they are,

their jaws are incredibly powerful.

Yeah. We've actually seen them pick up

a 50 pound chunk of meat and bone

and walk three of four-miles with it

before taking it back to

the communal den as they often do.

The Owenses were the first to

discover that brown hyenas

have a very complex social structure.

At the communal den related hyenas

share in the feeding of the young

and even adopt each other's orphans.

When we first began our study

of brown hyenas in 1974,

the odd sighting suggested

that they were solitary scavengers.

Yet they lived in a clan

as a group and we couldn't understand

why they were social.

And then one night we followed

a female moving one of her cubs

from her small den into

a huge communal den.

It provides a haven for the cubs

and releases the mothers

from the duty of protection.

They move from one of these

large dens to the other,

and we don't know which one of these

dens they are using at the moment.

There are no fresh bones in this.

So often a zoologist's

hops are disappointed.

The den is empty.

To anybody else this just looks

like three big holes in the ground.

But to us this is just so many...

represents so many memories and discoveries

and hard nights of

watching empty holes

and exciting nights of watching hyenas

This place means so much to us.

It may take weeks to discover

the clan's new den,

but research continuity is crucial.

It took the Owenses

four years to discover

that clan members share a communal den

That observation opened doors

of understanding to previously

inexplicable hyena behavior.

From time to time Delia and Mark fly

a town of native huts

and tourist lodges.

Here they can pick up

research correspondence

and send off manuscripts

for publication.

This is the Crocodile Farm.

Water is so precious in the Kalahari

that they always arrive weighed down

by dirty laundry.

Maun Office Services is their

contact with the outside world.

It receives and stores mail for

people who live far out in the bush.

I found it. I've given it to him.

Whenever you get a minute,

we've just come to pick up our mail.

Okay. Behind you is a box

with the word "Owens" on it.

And a big box after it.

And that's all yours.

What was the date on that?

Oh, her Look.

These are all our telegrams.

Oh, golly. Okay, wait a minute.

Hey, Tony.

You want to come and join us?

Why don't you join us?

I've got something in the oven.

Now this is a birthday card

from my mother.

I know it.

Yep, and it's fat.

What? It's fat?

It's fat.

She usually sends vitamin pills.

Why is she sending fat?

Oh, look. Pictures of home.

That's fantastic.

Oh, that's great.

Cut off as they are

for months at a time,

these bundles of mail

are precious links with home.

Through letters they share in

their families' triumphs and despairs.

Back at camp again,

Delia and Mark are on the prowl,

still hoping to find some of the

lions they studied four years earlier.

The cubs seem to sense

that something is wrong.

Delia and Mark have

darted an old lioness.

They can tell by the tag in her ear

that she is one of the

lions they studied before.

The lion's whisker

pattern will tell them more.

Here's one of our old friends.

There's just a shard

of an ear tag left,

just a pin with a little bit of

color on either side right here.

Mark, do you know who this is?

This is Happy.

Happy?

This is Happy.

Darted first April 9th, 1978.

I can't believe it.

What a story behind her.

One reason we called her Happy is

because we recorded her with

more males than any other female.

She'd from one male to the other.

I can't believe it. She's a beauty.

Oh, you old bag, you.

Finding Happy is an important link

to their early research.

She helps them learn how prides

in the Kalahari form and break apart.

Her presence in the same area

demonstrates just how crucial

the riverbed habitat

is to the lions' survival.

Roger, ready to copy.

To Mark Owens, a telex from...

Back at camp, Mark gets a call from

his radio contact in Maun.

Okay. Well, we've got a problem.

We received a telex message by radio

yesterday that Immigration

in the capital has rejected our

request for a residence permit,

which, of course, we need to carry

on our research here.

So we're going to fly off to Gaborone

and try to see what the problem

is and try to sort it out.

It's obviously most disturbing.

Before returning to the Kalahari,

Delia and Mark had talked to

government officials and had been

assured all was in order.

Delia and Mark would not

return to the Kalahari.

The Botswana government would

expel them from the country.

The trees at their camp had sheltered

them from desert winds

and shaded them from

the lethal sun of summer.

While they lived here,

they made important scientific discoveries

and developed plans that they hoped

could save wildlife

in the Kalahari for future generations

As soon as we entered

the office, he said,

You have until 5 o'clock to get out

of the country.

And I said, Well, what about our camp?

And he said,

If you're here after 5 o'clock,

the law will take its course.

We just feel like we've been

thrown out of our home.

And it was like somebody had died.

It was really, honestly,

like someone very close to us had

died and we were mourning that death.

A few days later, friends of

Delia and Mark fly into the camp

to pick up their research data

and vehicles.

I believe this is

a tragedy for Botswana.

I can't imagine that any good could

come out of people like

Mark and Delia being restrained.

They're so dedicated and they have

the interest of the country

and the people so much at heart.

The Botswana government

refused to give the

Owenses any reason for their expulsion,

but almost certainly it concerned

their protests over a massive

die-off of wildebeest in the Kalahari.

In 1979 at the beginning of a long

drought in Botswana,

Mark had discovered thousands of

wildebeest migrating northward.

In long drought periods these antelope

must have access to water to survive.

Instinct, perhaps,

tells them there are perennial sources

of water to the north.

But now herds of cattle are

grazed in the same area.

Disregarding the impact on wildlife,

the Botswana government

has built fences because some

veterinarians believe

that wildebeest can infect cattle

with foot-and-mouth disease.

The wildebeest were cut off.

As they traveled north,

their natural route was blocked.

Thousands died on the fences.

Following the scent of water,

those with enough strength

pushed on around the end of the fences

into an area made desolate

from overgrazing by villagers cattle.

By the time the wildebeest

did reach water,

many were too exhausted to continue.

Survivors had to trek 50 miles

each day between the water

and woodlands where they could graze

and escape harassment from poachers.

Day after day hundreds more died.

Although wildebeest

have not been shown to transmit

foot-and-mouth disease to cattle,

villagers were told

that they must not let the

wildebeest mix with their herds.

Since 1979 more than

Only 30,000 remain.

Horrified by the disaster,

Delia and Mark alerted

the Botswana government.

When little was done,

they wrote articles and a book

reporting this wildlife disaster.

For a year Delia

and Mark tried to gain reentry.

Although the government would

eventually offer to readmit them,

the Owenses would decide that,

in the face of bureaucratic hostility,

they could no longer be

effective conservationists in Botswana.

We came to Africa to find a chunk of

what Africa always used to be

a wilderness that was untouched,

a wilderness that we could protect

by conducting basic research

and devising a conservation program.

Besides losing the science,

we've now lost what was our home

and what was our reason for working.

And we wanted so badly

to conserve this area.

I just hope it won't now be lost.

I can't think of anything else

that has affected me as much

personally as the

loss of the Kalahari has,

and I just hope that...

I hope the world won't let it pass.

Delia and Mark are determined to

continue their efforts to

conserve wildlife in Africa.

They ask themselves

where they can be most effective.

Okay. Search for a new study site.

It's fairly depressing as to

how many countries are off

limits to us for a variety of reasons.

Mozambique has a civil w*r going on,

so we can't go to Mozambique.

And similarly

South-West Africa/Namibia

in the north is torn with civil strife.

We've been warned not to go to

Zaire because of some populations

over here that are

still attacking people.

There are supposed

to be still cannibals there.

So we basically are limited

to south-central Africa,

and the country that seems to

offer the most promise is Zambia.

Delia and Mark set out

on a five-day journey to

Botswana's neighbor to the north.

Zambia's largest national park,

Kafue, is 170 miles long.

They begin their quest at Ngoma,

a tourist and game-scout camp.

There they will discover wildlife

problems common across Africa.

Delia and mark learn about the park

from chief game warden, Ray Mwenifumbo.

They are looking for a research site

that needs conservation

and where animals are

undisturbed by human contact.

What's the poaching pressure like?

Poaching and the human encroachment

these are the two major problems

I'm having right now.

Of course, these are not very big

problems as far as I'm concerned.

I think I'm handicapped more my being

handicapped without enough transport,

enough funds to operate, you know.

I'm running... this park is

almost the size of Scotland.

And I've got one vehicle myself

and my senior ranger there has

got one vehicle. For me...

You've got two vehicles

for the whole park?

For the whole park.

Now, for me to drive from here to

come and see my other staff here,

it takes more than a month.

Right now I have only about 81

wildlife scouts to mind this area.

That's just peanuts.

You've got how many?

Eighty-one.

Eighty-one.

For the entire park.

Definitely the staff need not

less than 300 scouts to manage,

strictly speaking, this vast area.

Zambia is committed to protecting

its wildlife,

but faces severe economic problems.

The population is doubling

every 20 years.

As land is cleared, wildlife

habitats are wiped out.

Commercial poaching destroys animals

that could be a renewable resource

on a continent starved for protein.

Many conservationists believe that

African wildlife can be saved

only if people who live near the parks

benefit from them in tangible ways.

Ray Mwenifumbo suggests that the

Owenses visit a village nearby

to learn what the villagers think.

Boys watch from a respectful distance

as Delia and Mark meet Chief Shezongo.

At this point we are very naive

about your problems.

How do you think we could help?

We want to see practical things

that people near a park

at least see the need

for these animals

We would like to see that the

local population is taken into account

Yes, we get benefits on national level

but the ordinary person like me

doesn't see what shares we have.

In particular the people

who are next to the wildlife,

the district should benefit much.

Not as it is at the moment.

Have you spoken to the government

about this?

Not at all. At present they are only

interested in looking

after the tourists,

but not the local people.

We are isolated.

We are nothing to them.

The Owenses know that the government

of Zambia is beginning

to share tourist

and hunting revenues with villagers.

But this important reform has

yet to be initiated here.

This is this lion. He's the one

whose leg was broken here.

Yes.

Pictures in their book help Mark

and the villagers establish common

ground and understanding.

You see we could get very close

to them

They would walk up to us.

Is this the same lion?

This is this cub, Bimbo.

He is two years old now.

And he walked up and

nearly smelled my face here.

Were they tame, the lions?

No, no. they were wild lions.

But these lions would come into camp

and they'd sit at the campfire.

Wild lions. Hard to believe.

Maybe the lions of Botswana

are different from ours here?

No, these lions have never been hunted

you see.

That's the difference.

Those lions in Botswana can be

very mean if they're hunted.

Oh, yes.

Yeah.

Delia and Mark are perhaps

the first Americans

ever to visit Shezongo village,

reason enough for a celebration.

The dancing goes on for hours.

For seven years in the Kalahari

Delia and Mark lived isolated lives,

at home with animals

but far from people.

This moving evening is

an exciting first for them.

Deep within the wilderness

on the Kafue River

there is an especially lush area,

unvisited in recent years because

bridges and roads are out.

They make this area their goal.

Along the way they find seas of grass,

but curiously the vegetation seems

untouched by grazing animals.

The few antelope they do see

run as the Land Cruiser approaches.

This is like and Eden with

nothing here. With everything gone.

And You know, I just more or

less have come to the conclusion as

we were driving down this last stretch

here that it's got to be poaching.

Everything we've seen has been wild.

I know. We've only seen a few animals

and they have run away from us.

And there's grass to be eaten and

there are no animals to eat it.

Then, a chance encounter with a

volunteer game scout, Tony Middleton.

But still I kept thinking,

we both kept thinking,

there must be more;

there should be more animals.

There should be more.

Even now there should be more.

And on the elephant I promise you,

here you would drive and you'd see two

or three hundred

in an afternoon elephant.

Three years ago.

Is that right?

Yeah.

Three years ago?

Three years ago.

Three years ago the northern half

of the park was really heavily poached

for ivory and the elephant actually

moved down into this particular area.

Now they're going for the lesser

animals because it's now meat.

We've got the commercial meat,

but poaching's hand

in hand with the ivory poaching.

Are the poachers coming in with trucks

No, it's all by foot. But you see,

you get two or three guys come into

an area like this

and they'll set up a camp,

hide somewhere.

And then they will just sh**t,

sh**t, sh**t, sh**t.

And they will cut up the meat

or cut out the ivory.

And then once a week,

once every fortnight,

you will get 10, 12, 15 chaps coming

from the villages on the other side

with bicycles. Quick movement,

load it up, and off they go.

Unless something drastic is done

on a national scale,

we are not going to have any wildlife

left in this country in ten years.

Still hoping to find

an area free of poaching,

Delia and Mark plunge ever deeper

into the wilderness toward the river.

Oh, oh.

Their route is often blocked

by streams.

We shouldn't have to go far west

before we cut north.

But you know I think

what we're going to have to do decide

go maybe a few kilometers

because pretty soon this is not

going to be worth it.

We have to decide...

if we gonna go west

Well, we have to get away from these

rocks and these kopjes our here

before we can do anything

in a straight line, so.

But we can't go back now.

We've got to go on.

Okay.

Mark, I don't think you can get

through that way.

Trust me.

Mark!

Forging on toward their river goal,

Delia and Mark face one difficulty

after the other.

Do you see anything, Mark?

What?

Do you see anything?

No.

So what do you think we did wrong?

Well, the only thing I can think of is

that we stayed left and we should have

I mean we branched right when

we should have stayed left.

Because this track hasn't matched

the one that's on the chart at all.

It can take all day to drive around

some small streams.

In four days they travel just 50 miles

See that little cut in the bank there?

I wonder if there's any hope there.

A tourist camp burned out by poachers,

abandoned now because

it cannot be protected.

It doesn't look like the camp

was even that old.

I mean the mud daub and so forth

doesn't look like it

had been done very long ago.

This is heavy duty stuff, you know.

This could be us.

Yeah. If we have a camp here, we have

to have an armed guard at our camp.

And at the airplane and at the boats

and at the vehicles.

The sight of the burned-out camp

is sobering.

A poacher's tracks add a sense

of present danger.

Mark, just don't follow those spoor,

okay?

Just come on back because I'm worried

that they probably have g*ns

and you're in there alone. Over.

Yeah, I'm following them right down

the damn stream bed,

right up the stream bed.

Deeply discouraged, but too far

into the wilderness to turn back,

Delia and Mark push on to the river.

They had hoped this might

be their next home.

Oh, wow! It's beautiful.

Oh, man.

Look at it.

Oh, God.

Wow, what a spot.

What the hell is that thing?

We've made it to the river,

but look at this.

It's either for drying fish

or for drying meat.

I don't see any fish bones.

It's a meat-drying rack. It's poaching.

I can smell the meat on it.

I mean this is just about the most

discouraging place

I've seen in a long time.

The whole bloody park is being

sterilized by it.

Really.

At least they can't use it

again anyway.

We should burn this.

They need to know that somebody

was here. We need to put a warning.

At least they'll have to go to more

trouble the next time

they want to dry the meat.

Their frustration and anger mount

as they discover more and more

evidence of slaughter.

In some areas elephant skulls litter

the ground.

You can stand in this spot and

you can see four to five dead elephants.

I think it's despicable;

I think it's appalling;

I think it's a tragic commentary

on the state

of world conservation that his sort

of thing can go on.

And I just keep wondering

when the world is going to wake up

and really take some action.

Mark's frustration is fueled

by the knowledge that in just 12 years

one hundred thousand elephants in

the Luangwa Valley have been k*lled.

They are being destroyed for their

ivory, which is carved into trinkets,

coffee table decorations,

and works of art.

The fashion that leads people

to buy ivory, collect it,

and wear it contributes

to the destruction

of these magnificent creatures.

Distressed by what they have seen,

Delia and Mark search further.

They have been told that

North Luangwa National Park

is still an untouched wilderness.

They make a flying reconnaissance.

That's beautiful river!

Yeah, a beautiful river.

We can work this habitat, too.

Especially along the river channels

it looks quite open.

It looks very possible in terms

of moving around with the truck,

and I think I'll be able to spot

from the airplane quite well, too.

It's fantastic country.

Yeah. This place is full of animals.

Full of what?

Full of animals.

Yeah. Look for lions.

People have said this

is the Cinderella park of Zambia.

I believe it.

It needs work. They don't know

how many animals there are.

It needs quantitative work.

Did you tell them we saw lions?

We saw lions three females

with three little cubs and wild dogs.

What have I got? Soot on my nose?

Only one track leads down

the escarpment into the Rift Valley

Delia will drive it alone.

Mark flies down with the airplane,

and when he lands,

is greeted by a forlorn sight.

My forlorn little Boo.

Oh, I'm so glad you're not hurt.

I don't know what happened, Mark.

Listen, I couldn't have done it

better myself.

I think it's beautiful.

See, the trailer's in line.

It was perfect.

And then it just took off on its own.

So I climbed out of there in a hurry.

I believe. You came out lie

a jack-in-the-box.

You can check the gear oil...

Yeah, I can grease the drive train,

check the springs.

I'm sorry.

I think I'll have a Perrier water

with lime and ice,

and shrimp c*ck served

on half a avocado.

And then what shall we have?

Cheesecake with cherries on top?

There she goes!

What a difference as

they travel this track.

These animals have not yet learned

to fear man.

But North Luangwa Park,

for lack of manpower and resources,

is virtually defenseless.

It could go the way of Kafue in

just a few years unless Zambia,

together with

the international community,

commits greater resources

to its protection.

Paradise for Delia and Mark is a place

where the lions are unconcerned

by their presence.

Never see a desert lion up this time

of day moving around.

She's really used to us now, Mark.

She's just ignoring us.

Look at the puku across the river.

This place excites me.

Yeah.

It really does.

It's good to be watching lions again.

I think maybe we've found a home.

Yeah.

Here is a place where two research

scientists could dedicated ten years

of their lives and hope

to make a difference.

I want to get in the water.

All right, come on.

Watch and all.

There's more water here than

we saw in seven years in the Kalahari.

I think we should get some soap...

If we can't be happy here, I don't

think there's a place left in Africa.

Well, this is great. You could

at least take your boots off.

Can you imagine living next to water?

And without people?

And a lot of game.

Oh, man! You know the thing is

about this place is that

there's a lot here to work with,

You Know.

It's a place where you can sort of

put your heart and be happy for years.

Delia and Mark Owens started out

with a passion for wildlife,

with extraordinary pluck,

and with the hope that they could make

contribution to the preservation

of a precious heritage.

They stood up for conservation and

heavy personal and professional price.

The was been hard,

the future is uncertain,

but still they hold steadfast

to their dream.