01x04 - Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

[bunniefuu]

NARRATOR: This is India's
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.

From the air, the train's
journey across the Himalayas

looks truly dramatic.

With UNESCO World Heritage status,

the 140-year-old railway is

maintained by a whole army of engineers.

Filmed from above, this
series showcases some of

the most incredible railways on Earth.

We'll gain a unique aerial insight into
these remarkable trains

and the extraordinary
landscapes they pass through,

revealing the technology that built them,

and the dedicated people
who keep them running.

We'll uncover the culture,
the history, and the engineering

that makes these The World's Greatest
Train Journeys From Above.

NARRATOR: India is one of the
largest countries in the world.

With 1.4 billion people,

it's home to one sixth
of the world's population.

The Indian Peninsula reaches
south into the Indian Ocean.

And to the north, it's
separated from mainland Asia by

the world's youngest,
yet highest, mountain range;

the mighty Himalayas.

As the first rays of sun kiss the
snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas,

they illuminate a spectacular landscape.

In the lap of the world's third-highest
mountain, Kangchenjunga,

this is the hill town of Darjeeling.

It's famous for two things.

The world-class black tea and
the steam train that once took

the tea to the world, the
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway,

better known simply as the DHR.

The DHR connects the mainline
rail hub of New Jalpaiguri in

North Eastern India, to Darjeeling,

88 kilometers further north,

in the Himalayan foothills.

Every morning, the stations
at each end of the line see

two very different trains
begin their journeys.

Here, at Darjeeling's distinctive station,

a steam locomotive is on its way
to link up with two carriages,

ready for what's called
the joyride, a tough, uphill,

six-kilometer journey to
the highest point on the route.

It's being driven today by Dilip Sinchury,

one of the DHR's most
experienced locomotive drivers.

DILIP: It's challenging because we have
to drive in mountain terrain

But I like the challenge

The DHR is beautiful and incomparable

NARRATOR: Down in the
plains at New Jalpaiguri,

alongside the mainline locomotives,

a small DHR diesel engine
is preparing for a much

longer journey over the
whole 88-kilometer route,

up the mountains to Darjeeling.

VIKAS: We are going
with a Diesel locomotive

The train number is 52541

This is more powerful
than steam locomotives

it has higher hauling capacity

(horn blaring)

NARRATOR: The journey will take the
diesel train over seven hours,

at an average speed of less
than 15 kilometers per hour.

The route ascends 2,000 meters.

That's a massive two kilometers,

up huge gradients.

It's only able to achieve this thanks to

some extraordinary engineering en route.

On its way up the mountain, the
train travels over 554 bridges,

around nearly 900 bends, and
crisscross the adjoining highway

over 100 times.

It also passes through
five distinct climatic zones,

from tropical plains,
through temperate forest,

up into the extreme
weather of the alpine regions.

Diesel locomotives
operate the entire route,

from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling.

The specially built small locomotives,

the NDM-6s, are unique.

They were introduced in the 1990s,

and soon became the workhorse of the DHR.

But steam locomotives are
the real superstars of the DHR.

MAN: Steam engine is one thing
which captures our imagination

And that's the one thing in
which we have never travelled

And they've got this new vistadome coach

So we specifically booked for this steam
engine with vistadome

So that's why we wanted to travel in
something which we have never done

(whistle blowing)

NARRATOR: As the
steam train departs Darjeeling,

from above, the whole town
seems to be at a standstill.

Traffic is at a halt.

Locals stop in their tracks, and
tourists pull out their cameras.

With its cool climate,

Darjeeling became an
increasingly popular resort in

the late 19th and early 20th century.

Now it's the bustling
home to over 130,000 people.

From the vistadome coaches,

passengers get great views of the town.

With a steam locomotive,
preparations start early.

Today, just after dawn.

DILIP: It's very cold today

MAN: Yes, it is very cold

NARRATOR: Driving steam trains
is in Dilip Sinchury's blood.

DILIP: My father was a locomotive pilot
with the DHR in this very section

From 1944 to 1984

My grandfather was a
waterman with the DHR in 1930

And now, I am a third
generation DHR employee

NARRATOR: Dilip has come in
early for a thorough check-up of

the iconic B-class locomotive
he's due to drive today.

It's over 100 years old.

Engines like this aren't made anymore,

and neither are spare parts.

It takes all the experience
and knowhow of Dilip and

a whole team of mechanics to keep these

last remaining locomotives running.

This morning, they're at work addressing
an issue on the locomotive.

It's on the side rods
that connect the wheels.

DILIP: There's a knocking
sound coming from the undergear

After a thorough check-up,
we realized that the side rod brass holder

has become slack

NARRATOR: In a steam locomotive,
it's the side rods that transfer

power from the piston
to the driving wheels.

Brass holders are used to
couple the side rods together,

and over time, the inside of
the brass holders wear down,

and the side rods can become loose,

as seems to have happened here.

DILIP: Sometimes you hear unusual
sounds coming from the engine

The sound helps us
understand where the problem is

a knocking in the side rod or undergear

We can tell a lot by the sound

NARRATOR: When side rods loosen,
it causes severe vibration,

and reduces the power
transmitted to the wheels.

DILIP: They are like shoes

If our shoes aren't fastened
tight, we can't walk properly

The same applies to the engine

NARRATOR: As Dilip predicted,
the holder has deformed.

It's the cause of the problem.

On the first journey today,

the train has to climb over 183 meters,

to the highest point, Ghum.

It needs to deliver peak power.

With passengers gathering at the station,

the train has to depart on time.

OPERATOR: Hello Dilip.
How much time till it's ready?

DILIP: 10-15 minutes at the most

OPERATOR: Alright.
Let's get it done in time

DILIP: Don't worry, I am working
with the maintenance staff

15-20 minutes maximum

NARRATOR: The fitters have a solution.

A piece of soft metal is pounded
into the deformed brass holder,

giving it a tighter hold on the side rods.

DILIP: We will fill
the gap with tin packing

NARRATOR: With the fix complete,

the brass holder
is hammered back into place,

reconnecting the side rods.

♪ ♪

DILIP: My locomotive is ready

My first trip will be smooth

NARRATOR: The steam locomotive
is now back to full power.

Dilip and the DHR
start their day on schedule.

(whistle blowing)

The train passes right through
the center of Darjeeling.

The track here serves as a gathering place
for locals and tourists alike.

Luckily, the train
rarely exceeds a speed of

15 kilometers per hour.

DILIP: Always drive slowly here

People walk on the tracks in this section

NARRATOR: Today, alongside Dilip,
an apprentice driver,

Jitu Jenna, is learning the route.

They're about to face
their first big challenge,

as they head into the
steepest part of the line.

NARRATOR: Down in the plain,

88 kilometers away from Darjeeling,

the diesel train has begun
its journey up the mountains.

The DHR may be 140 years old,
but one part of it is brand-new;

the air-conditioned coaches.

Introduced in 2018, they give passengers

a comfortable view of the route.

But the AC coaches are heavy,

and only the NDM-6 diesels can haul them.

As the train arrives at its first stop,

one passenger has a special reason to
look forward to the trip.

Historian Sushil Kumar Dikshit
takes the train each year,

in memory of his father,

who'd been the DHR's
permanent way inspector,

responsible for the tracks.

Today, Sushil will be
visiting a section of

the railway redesigned by his father.

SUSHIL: During my
school days in 1956 to 1964,

I rode every year the
whole stretch, you know,

for all the ten years
or something like that.

Affectionately it was called Miss Steam.

NARRATOR: In the 1880s,
when the railway was built,

engineers decided to
squeeze the line alongside

the existing road for horse-drawn carts.

But its curves and corners were
too tight for trains running on

standard four-foot, eight
and a half inch gauge rails.

Their solution was to set
the rails just two feet apart,

among the narrowest gauges in the world.

To help trains take the corners safely,

the locomotives and
carriages were engineered

with low centers of gravity.

140 years later, the
route has barely changed.

There are no tunnels along the route,

allowing passengers continuous panoramic
views of the Himalayas.

After its third stop, Sukna,
the train faces a climb of more

than 274 meters, in
just over eight kilometers.

VIKAS: We are ready to start
from Sukna towards Rongtong

it is a difficult
section with a high gradient

NARRATOR: With two fully loaded coaches,

there's a real risk
of the wheels slipping.

This could cause serious damage
to the surfaces of the rails,

and of the wheel itself.

The DHR employs a simple solution,

one that has stood the test of time.

SUSHIL (off-screen): There
are certain steep portions,

like one is to 22, steep grades are there,

but to assist in the traction,
the sandman is always there

to pour the sand on
the tracks, for extra adhesion.

NARRATOR: Sanding the
tracks is the main way to

try to avoid the problem.

Additional sand can be
spread by the train itself.

VIKAS: It's a
mechanical system, not manual

A fixed amount of sand
is dropped on the track

to avoid wheel slips

NARRATOR: As the train climbs
through the steeper sections,

the sanders deploy.

The sand creates more friction
between tracks and wheels,

allowing the train to climb the
sharp gradient without slipping.

(whistle blowing)

60 kilometers uphill, Dilip
and his apprentice Jitu are

preparing their steam locomotive
for the toughest ascent on

the way to Ghum, the
highest station on the DHR.

But first, they need to stop to refuel.

The locomotive needs to
take on 600 kilos of coal,

and 1,800 liters of water.

DILIP: Fill the lubricant
and keep the injector off

NARRATOR: With the water tanks full,

it's time to begin the climb.

The apprentice driver, Jitu,
has only recently been promoted.

Before that, he was a fireman.

It will be at least
another year before he can take

sole charge of a steam engine.

DILIP: Inject water to build steam

NARRATOR: Jitu has to
keep a watchful eye on both

the water level and the steam pressure.

The locomotives work by
creating high-pressure steam in

their boilers, which drive
pistons that turn the wheels.

If the steam pressure is too low,

the train won't make the gradient.

Dilip and Jitu are gearing up
to negotiate one of the DHR's

several engineering marvels,

the famous Batasia double loop.

There's a steep 42-meter climb
on this section of the route.

In the early 20th century,
increased loads of freight,

including the famous tea, made
it more difficult for drivers to

negotiate the single loop, so in 1919,

engineers added a second loop.

From above, it's impressive.

The line loops through an underpass and
then circles round again,

to pass over itself.

It eases the gradient,
but it's still a tough climb.

DILIP: It's difficult here
and the gradient is steep

Add coal to the fire
and switch the injector off

Go slowly on the gradient

NARRATOR: After the Batasia Loop,

the steam train still has
a 120-meter climb to Ghum,

and about 40 kilometers further south,

the diesel train is
also facing a challenge,

as it prepares for one of the
steepest descents on the route.

NARRATOR: The steam train is
on the outskirts of Darjeeling.

This area is home to 87 tea gardens,
estates producing around

ten million kilos of tea
each year, 80% for export.

In the 1870s, increasing tea
production led to the building

of the railway,
allowing for a speedier and

more efficient means of
transport than horse and cart.

The train is now approaching
the end of its journey and

needs to slow down.

The steam locomotives and
the carriages on the DHR have

independent manual brakes.

The two brakemen, one in each coach,

and the driver, have
to be able to apply or

release their brakes simultaneously.

Without being able to
see or talk to each other,

the solution is a tried and tested system.

Whistles.

(whistle blowing)

DILIP: The brakemen and I communicate
through whistle codes

If we are going downhill, and
the train hasn't picked up speed

I give one short whistle

(whistle blows)

They release the brakes

If there is an emergency or if the train
has picked up too much speed

I give 2 or 3 short whistles

They apply the brakes

That's how we control the train

NARRATOR: As the train
nears its destination, Ghum,

a points-man gives the
train the all clear to cross

into the 19th century station.

MAN (off-screen): This train
is definitely a charming one,

no doubt, because this is
something which you don't get

anywhere else, there
are only a few places, yeah.

WOMAN: It goes along with the road,

and we can see the shops and other things,

as though they're going along with us.

NARRATOR: In preparation for the
return journey to Darjeeling,

the steam locomotive has
uncoupled from the carriages,

and is reversing to join with
the other end of the train.

It's the first of four return
trips for Dilip and Jitu today.

Down the line, the
diesel train is now two hours

into its journey.

From above, the view is of a
huge area of temperate forest.

The train's entering the
southern end of the famed

Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary.

It's home to a wide range
of birds and animals,

including Indian elephants.

Leaving the sanctuary,
the terrain gets steeper.

The train must climb 250 meters
in just six kilometers.

There was once a loop here,
making the climb less steep,

but in 1942 it was destroyed
by a massive landslide.

With so much debris,

reconstructing the loop was impossible.

A different solution had to be found.

SUSHIL (off-screen): My
father's tenure working for DHR,

he was assigned with the
job to construct the Z reverse

above Rongtong Station.

NARRATOR: Sushil has his
father's original sketch,

showing how the damaged
rail loop could be replaced by

a new Z reverse.

On a Z reverse, a train
moves from an uphill line it's

traveling on to a track
higher up the mountainside,

by reversing up a
gradient linking the two.

Then it continues its
ascent on the higher track.

VIKAS: The DHR has its own beauty

One of the things that makes
it special is the Z reverse

NARRATOR: From above, the
train seen moving forward on

the first leg of the Z reverse,
designed by Sushil's father.

SUSHIL (off-screen):
There are several explanations

about the Z reverse,

but the most popular one
being the ballroom dance,

where once you get into a corner,

you have to take two,
three steps backward in order

to go around the dance floor again.

NARRATOR: Once the
train can go no further,

the points are switched
so it can reverse uphill.

It's a challenging moment
for the locomotive pilot.

(horn blaring)

PILOT: You have to be
very careful when reversing

We can't see the track at
the back during the manoeuvre

We have to rely on
the guard who is now in front

NARRATOR: The train halts one more time,

for the points to be switched so it can
move forward on the higher track.

SUSHIL (off-screen): Decades later,
it stands as real as this sketch.

I would give credit to all the people,

all the staff in those days.

All of them worked for 80 hours non-stop,

to complete this damaged portion,

by building a new Z reverse.

NARRATOR: On the
uphill journey to Darjeeling,

the train will pass
through five more Z reverses,

and three loops.

But there have been warnings
of a cyclone in the region.

Heavy rainfall, dense fog,
and low visibility are set to

make the driver's job even harder.

NARRATOR: Past the Z reverse,

the train hits the very
steepest section of the route.

It must climb 427 meters
in just 12 kilometers.

Aided by double loops like the one
engineers built here at Chunbhatti.

Seen from above, it's spectacular.

(horn blaring)

(horn blaring)

MAN: We are very excited about

the route that the train takes

the lush greenery around here

and the cool weather

All that attracted us to it

There were 5 or 10 items on our itinerary

and this train journey was on the top

NARRATOR: The train is
now approaching Tindharia.

It's a railway town
developed by the DHR as its

main repair and maintenance hub.

Up here, the passengers can enjoy

the cool subtropical winds of the region.

For over a century, the much-photographed
B-class steam locomotives

have been at the heart
of Darjeeling's identity.

(gusting winds)

The classic steam engines
are rebuilt in this workshop.

It's perched right on the edge of a cliff.

In the early 1900s, the
DHR had 34 of these engines.

They hauled 174,000 passengers and

47,000 tons of goods annually.

Today, only 14 remain in service.

As time took its toll on the rest,

they were cannibalized for spare parts.

The Tindharia workshop
has around 90 workers.

(siren wailing)

Among them, the last mechanics
with the knowhow to restore

the 100-year-old locomotives.

Uraj Pradhan is the chief engineer.

URAJ: I am the third generation of my
family to work on the steam engines

I love them more than my sons

NARRATOR: There are currently
two major restoration projects

going on in the workshop
under Uraj's supervision.

The first is of an iconic locomotive,

number 782, the Mountaineer.

DILIP: 782 is my
favourite steam locomotive

My father drove it for
10 years and after him

I drove it for quite some time as well

NARRATOR: Built in 1899, it
is one of the oldest engines

of the DHR.

After more than 120 years at service,

its restoration involves
a complete boiler change.

URAJ: We are removing the old boiler and
replacing it with a new boiler

It's as though we are performing a heart
transplant on the engine.

NARRATOR: After the Mountaineer's old
rusted copper boiler's removed,

it joins two other century-old
relics waiting to be scrapped.

The replacement boiler
needs a new valve system,

to control the timing and volume

of high-pressure steam
entering the pistons.

URAJ: We have to work on the boiler and
the valve systems simultaneously

Both systems are
equally critical and sensitive

The valves of a steam engine
create most problems

Even a slight error in their setting

can stall an engine

NARRATOR: Today, one
of the valves won't fit.

It has to be fixed.

URAJ: Let me tell you what to do

Remove the settings, machine
down the brass and set it again

NARRATOR: It will be at
least two months before

the Mountaineer is back in working order.

But there's another engine that needs
Uraj's more urgent attention.

He's been restoring a second
steam locomotive for weeks,

and today it's due to return to service.

At only 95 years old,
the Iron Sherpa is amongst

the youngest steam locomotives of the DHR.

But like the Mountaineer,
it needed a new boiler,

and a complete mechanical overhaul.

(speaking in native language)

NARRATOR: Today, the team is
firing up the Iron Sherpa for

the first time in three months.

URAJ: Hold on a minute

Don't move it

NARRATOR: The director of the
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is

due to inspect the restoration,

and hopefully give it the green light
to return to service.

But inevitably, with
a locomotive this old,

there are challenges.

Today, there is a problem in the
pressure regulator on a valve.

URAJ: There is a leakage here

We observed it after
lighting the fire in the engine

We have to make sure we fix the leak

and ready the locomotive
before the Director arrives

NARRATOR: While Uraj and his team race to
fix the steam valve,

just a few kilometers away,

the crew of the
diesel locomotive is facing

a serious problem on the line.

It threatens to stop the train altogether.

♪ ♪

(horn blaring)

NARRATOR: Past Tindharia, as
the diesel train moves higher

into the mountains,

it enters a treacherous
section on the route.

There are hills on one side,
deep valleys on the other.

(horn blaring)

About ten kilometers ahead,
there's a problem on the track.

Heavy rains have been lashing
the area over the past two days.

There's been a mudslide at Gayabari,

blocking the track
with mud and rock debris.

A maintenance team has
arrived to carry out repairs.

The whole area is prone to
earthquakes and landslides,

so as well as the emergency repairs,

engineering works are
underway to protect the track.

Today, senior managers
from Indian Railways and

the DHR are here to inspect the work.

ARVIND: The train is
about to reach here soon sir

There are a few technical
problems we have to solve

We have to replace some ERCs as well

It will be done before the train arrives

ARVIND: It will be done sir.

SUVENDU: How many ERCs
have been replaced so far?

ARVIND: Around 50

NARRATOR: The metal fasteners
that attach the rails to

the sleepers are known
as ERCs, elastic rail clips.

Some of these have come loose,
or even detached completely.

The rain has also shifted the ground,

so in some sections, one rail
is lower than the other.

The problems need to be put right before

the train gets here.

From above, the threat
the mountain debris poses

to the railway is clear to see.

SUVENDU: What are the chances
of another landslide here?

ARVIND: The chances are high sir

The hills have been cut to make the road

It might take some
time for this to stabilise

NARRATOR: The diesel train is
making slow but steady progress

up the hill towards where they're working.

Another major landslide in
the same spot occurred just

a few months earlier,
washing away part of the track.

Services were
disrupted for several months.

ARVIND: Minor landslides
are a common occurrence

It's difficult to
predict larger landslides

but we encounter one
or two every six months

NARRATOR: Aerial cameras
show the massive embankment

now holding up the tracks.

ARVIND: This place is known as Pagla Jhora

Pagla Jhora means 'mad torrent'

It is very prone to landslides

A lot of work has been
done here in the last few years

NARRATOR: Despite all the reinforcements,

the Pagla Jhora section
continues to be a concern.

With the mud and boulders cleared and
the fasters reattached,

final checks are made on
the alignment of the rails.

SUVENDU: Put it here

MAN: Plus seven. MAN 2: Plus seven?

(speaking in native language)

SUVENDU: Good, it's balanced

NARRATOR: The engineers
finally give the all clear

for the train to pass.

SUVENDU: Our engineers
have to be alert at all times

For our engineers, it's life on the edge,
24/7, 365 days a year

NARRATOR: With his
track inspection complete,

the next stop for the DHR director

is Tindharia's locomotive workshop.

The team there has less
than an hour left to get

the Iron Sherpa in working order.

NARRATOR: The engineers have
been working for two hours to

fix the steam
regulator on the Iron Sherpa.

URAJ: A steam leakage makes it difficult
for the driver to operate the engine

The wasted steam results in low pressure

So we have to rectify this right away

NARRATOR: But Uraj has a solution.

He decides to add extra
insulation to the screw thread.

It should make a tight seal and ensure

there's no further steam leakage.

URAJ: Fit the regulator properly here

with the extra insulator

We are fitting the
part back and checking it

(speaking in native language)

URAJ: Is it done?

ENGINEER: Yes

URAJ: Let's check it

It's done

The blower is working

NARRATOR: It's a simple
and effective solution.

URAJ: The leak is fixed now

We had to repack it and now the
leak is fixed, as you can see

NARRATOR: Finally they're ready
for the director's arrival.

DIRECTOR: Has the POH (periodic overhaul)
been completed?

URAJ: Yes sir

DIRECTOR: How much
pressure is it generating?

URAJ: It's generating 8 kgs right now

It will need 10 kgs

DIRECTOR: Have you tested the safety
valve? Make sure you do that

URAJ: We have sir, it's working well

I am very happy today

We've been working on the Iron
Sherpa for the past 3 months

Now it's finally completed
and is getting flagged off

DIRECTOR: Is everything okay?

ENGINEER: Yes

DIRECTOR: Please proceed

(whistle blowing)

NARRATOR: Over its nine decades,
the Iron Sherpa has seen India's

independence and the
modernization of the railway.

Now, thanks to the
dedication of Uraj and his team,

it has years more service ahead of it.

(whistle blowing)

♪ ♪

It's evening, and the
steam train and the diesel train

are both approaching the Batasia Loop,

one after the other.

(whistle blows)

Dilip Sinchury and his
apprentice Jitu are returning

after their fourth trip to Ghum.

From above, the
two trains on the Batasia Loop

make a spectacular sight.

As dusk sets in, both
the trains are approaching

Darjeeling Station.

En route is this
picturesque Buddhist monastery,

where people continue to
pray even as trains pass by.

(whistle blows)

First to reach the
town is the steam train.

Not long after, the diesel train arrives.

MAN: It's a comfortable journey,
the coaches are very good

and the route is very picturesque and
has a lot of history

NARRATOR: Dilip pilots the
locomotive back to the shed,

where final checks are carried
out by his apprentice Jitu.

After a successful day
under Dilip's supervision,

Jitu damps down the fire.

It's not doused.

Firing up a steam engine from
coal takes more than five hours.

With more experience, Jitu will
eventually take over from Dilip.

DILIP: I am retiring in the next 2 years

I know I will hate sitting at home

I know I will want to
see the steam engines

work on them once more

The only way to save the steam engine is
to train the next generation

We are doing that
Teaching them everything we know

So that they won't face
difficulties in the future

We are transferring our knowledge to them

We love the steam engine a lot

I will miss it as long as I am alive

URAJ: When we bring a dead
locomotive back to life,

when it starts running,

it makes us proud

(whistle blowing)

NARRATOR: Tomorrow,
the steam and diesel engines

will once again tackle this
challenging but special route.

The incredible views
of towering mountains,

the engineering skills of those
who keep it running against

the odds, together with the
railway's long history and

its UNESCO status all
combine to make the DHR

one of the world's greatest
train journeys from above.