Livia…
I wonder if she's angry
because I've been gone for a few years.
I've been riding for a long time,
so there should be an inn
somewhere around here.
There it is.
My back injury
from a few days ago still hurts.
One can only hope
for a nice bath around here.
Is someone here?
Are you alone?
Yeah.
Here's your key.
We require everyone to pay up-front.
So pay us now.
What a horrible attitude!
I'll just bear it
since it's only one night.
I guess I'll eat something before I bathe.
Here you go.
It tastes horrible!
It's rude to leave leftovers,
but…
Instead of getting rest,
I'm even more exhausted.
I guess I'll bathe and go to sleep.
I can tell right away
that it hasn't been maintained.
The bathroom
is supposed to be
an important feature of the bath.
Oh well, I guess
I'll just enjoy the hot bath…
It's lukewarm! It's not hot at all!
Even the bath isn't what I had expected.
Does a service deteriorate this badly,
when there is no competition nearby?
Fine!
I'll heat up my own water!
Heave-h*.
What is this?
The atmosphere
is a little different today.
It's a Westerner.
Wow, this is a rare sight.
What? It's a woman!
Hey, what was that called?
That ship that brought all
the Westerners here last year.
The Black Ship?
I heard that the number of Westerners
increased ever since that ship arrived.
But who knew that they would
show up in a place like this.
A hitching rail?
Is this…
a bathhouse that is used by travelers?
Hey you…
What happened to your clothes?
Was it stolen?
It's probably because
the Westerner's clothes are unusual.
Hold on a second.
Here you go. It's worn out a little bit,
but you can have it.
Is he giving this to me?
We should help each other
in times of need, right?
If all of your possessions
have been stolen,
you can stay at my inn tonight.
I won't charge you.
I don't know when I'll be taken back.
I have to take a look around.
I was in a rush a while ago,
so I didn't realize
that nothing is dividing the bath
and the changing room.
From what I had seen so far,
I had assumed that the flat-faced people
all had good manners,
and high moral standards.
In Rome, men and women bathe separately
but it seems like mixed bathing
is still endorsed here.
Are they old-fashioned,
or do they just not care?
It doesn't seem like their
public morality has gone down,
so maybe it's more
peaceful here than in Rome.
TAVERN
The bath was old too,
but so is the building.
There's definitely something
different than usual.
That's the lady I saw earlier…
Oh no…
It seems like this is broken.
Oh, it's that Western man again.
Sir.
-What?
-Hey.
You're taking a long time
just to get some water.
I'm sorry.
The well is malfunctioning.
Malfunction?
It's a hassle to fix those.
But a Westerner just…
This was stuck in there.
This is my kimono!
We should help each other
in times of need, right?
I guess this is common courtesy
in your country too.
It's almost dinner.
Just follow her.
And make sure to get him a new yukata .
I will.
Please follow me.
We prepared a new yukata for you.
Please change into this.
Oh my.
That's not the correct way to wear it.
See? This is much more elegant and lovely.
When this is worn properly,
this fabric wraps gently around the body,
and it's very comfortable.
It also straightens out my back
and gives me confidence.
Follow me to the dining room.
Wow, we've got a very unusual
guest here today.
Wow.
A Westerner like you
stays at an old inn like this too?
Please sit here and wait.
Is she telling me to sit down?
Here you go. Please enjoy.
What are these two skewers?
These are used to eat meals?
Why are the flat-faced people
able to use these sticks so elegantly?
Sir, you can't pick up anything
if you're holding it like that.
Please hand me the chopsticks.
Hold it like this
and move it like this.
Then pick things up like this.
Those motions are clean and beautiful.
Please try it.
I can't hold it the way she did.
Hold it like this. Then go like this.
She's so close.
What a great physique.
Thank you.
Hey, Miss.
Play us the shamisen
like you did yesterday.
Of course.
She sure is a bewitching lady.
It's delicious!
It's simple, but I can taste
the natural flavor of the ingredients.
It's very flavorful.
When the meal is delicious,
it makes you drink more.
When you drink more,
it makes everyone livelier.
It's a wonderful cycle.
How beautiful!
The flowing lines are clean,
and confident.
It's so delicate.
Hey there.
If it's so unusual,
you can take it back home
to your country as a souvenir.
Is he giving this to me?
Please let the people in your country see
what kind of a country Japan is.
What a generous man!
Sir, hold on one minute.
Meeting you must be some sort of fate.
Please take this with you too.
Thank you!
Mr. Westerner.
This is where you were?
I was told to take you to your room.
It seems like she's trying
to tell me something.
Come on.
Please follow me.
Is this…
a lounge or something?
I'll lay out the futon mattress,
so please wait a little.
Oomph.
I see. This provides space in the room
to work and relax during the day.
This is how they're using
this small room to the fullest.
It's a wonderful idea.
Is the closet that unusual?
Thank you for waiting.
Please have a good night.
The building itself is old,
but it's maintained very well.
And the service is exceptional.
It melts away my fatigue from the journey.
Yes, this is what…
an inn should be…
I guess I had fallen asleep.
My body is cold.
I'll go soak in the bath
before I go to sleep.
The water is hotter
than a usual bath, but this is still nice.
I feel the fatigue
from my journey melting away.
Oh, if it isn't the Westerner.
You have a great body.
May I touch you a little?
I have to remain calm.
I have Livia…
Hey, you.
You can't take advantage
of a girl who's drunk.
I didn't know that there was someone else.
The water is hot too, so I'm starting to…
feel a little dizzy…
Emperor Hadrian.
There is a bathhouse nearby.
How about going there first to relax?
Let's do that.
When you're tired, it feels better to soak
in a bath that is warmer than usual.
The meal itself is simple,
but I can tell that the chef
put a lot of thought into it.
And…
the lyre playing
in the background is so pleasant.
I see. That's where the bedding
is placed when it's not bedtime.
That's a wonderful idea.
It was a very comfortable inn.
Thanks to you, I feel refreshed.
Thank you.
By the way,
did you come up with
the ideas for this facility?
No.
Then whose idea was it?
A few months ago,
we had a strange guest
who called himself a thermae architect.
A thermae architect?
Yes. Even though we didn't ask him to,
he extended his stay
and fully remodeled this place.
What's hanging behind me is an art piece
the thermae architect left behind.
It's Lucius.
Thermae Romae. The Hot Water Pilgrimage.
Author Ms. Mari Yamazaki visited an inn
hidden inside the mountains…
EPISODE SEVEN, INN
…called Hoshi Onsen, Choujukan.
Hello.
-Welcome.
-Hello.
-Thank you for coming.
-Hello.
-Please come in.
-Thank you.
Wow. It’s wonderful.
How old is this building?
This building was built in 1875.
-I see.
-So it’s 145 years old.
This building has been
maintained until now.
We actually use these buildings
as rooms for the guests,
so the guests can
spend time while enjoying this atmosphere.
This calming atmosphere transcends time.
It makes you feel as if
you’ve slipped back in time.
AKIKO YOSANO’S ROOM
TANGIBLE CULTURAL PROPERTY
Let’s go inside.
It’s a spacious room.
-Yes, please step inside.
-The beams are amazing.
What is this room used for?
This is referred to as the main building.
It's the oldest room in Hoshi Onsen.
-It's 140 years old?
-Yes.
-This room has been here for 140 years?
-Yes.
I think it's a feat
for a wood-framed house
like this to last 140 years.
Yes.
What is this?
Ms. Akiko Yosano
came here in September of 1931,
and she wrote that poem
while she stayed here.
-She wrote this poem… in this room?
-Yes.
She stayed here for three nights.
-That long?
-Yes.
I think when
foreign tourists come, they'll be
very curious about this closet.
A door that slides sideways like this
is rare to them, and when you open it,
there’s a bed inside.
It’s a foldable bed.
This is one of the characteristics
of a traditional inn.
This is lovely too.
There's a balcony outside.
Both the doors and the balcony itself
look antique.
Yes, it's an old-fashioned balcony.
-This was also built in 1875?
-Yes.
That's amazing.
Thermae Memoria.
Ms. Yamazaki sketched
a memorable moment from this trip.
I was wondering what to draw,
but I personally think
these hot spring inns are important
because they transcend time
and preserve things from
the good old days.
When people come to places like this,
I want them to leave their phones behind,
and not watch any TV.
Instead, I want them to simply stand still
and feel their existence here.
Thermae Romae. The Hot Water Pilgrimage.
What kind of adventure
awaits us next time?
Mr. Yamazaki's journey will continue.
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01x07 - Lucius appears on the Tokaido Road in the Edo Period
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Lucius Modestus, a proud bathhouse architect in ancient Rome, struggles in his profession after running out of new ideas.
Lucius Modestus, a proud bathhouse architect in ancient Rome, struggles in his profession after running out of new ideas.