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Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion (2024)

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Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion (2024)

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[gentle music playing]

[indistinct chatter]

[crowd cheering]

[gentle music continues]

[man] You are truly a force,

and an incredibly charming one

at that.

[applause]

He knows exactly

how to dazzle and entertain.

[applause]

[Mackie] At the time,

I was just doing my job.

I wasn't thinking about

anything but filling the order,

doing what was required of me.

I never once thought about

the legacy of the future,

just the present.

Thank you all.

[applause]

[camera shutters clicking]

[applause]

[woman] So, Bob,

you design all these

gorgeous gowns and sketches

for characters, costumes.

So, what were you

like as a little boy?

-Were you, like, fantasizing?

-I was the strangest child

you've ever met.

[laughter]

I just-- I never played

with the other kids.

I just stayed in my bedroom

and drew pictures of stars.

-[woman] You mean people?

-People, yeah.

Yeah. And little stage sets

on my dresser drawers.

And I turned off the lights...

[gentle music playing]

[Mackie] Did you see pineapples

when you were in Hawaii?

-[girl] No.

-[Mackie] You must've.

Well, this isn't going

to be a very good owl.

I can tell.

I'll have to do my best.

Here you go.

[Mackie] Okay, I'm going to put

a little bow in her hair,

because it's more like a hat

when there's a bow in it.

And that's kind of

holding them all together.

Okay, now I'm doing

another one there.

See, when you're

a costume designer,

you have to think

of how it's going to be--

How it sticks to their head

and works.

Do you ever make hats

out of paper sometimes?

Crowns and hats? It's fun to do.

There she goes.

-How's that?

-[girl] It is so fun.

-It's fun, huh?

-Mm-hm.

Yeah.

[gentle music resumes]

[director]

Well, they gave me that

when I was there.

This is like-- Because

I've been getting awards,

they decided to give me an award

for Most Creative Grandpa.

Well, the other one was

an award for Best Drawer,

by Kira, the little one.

Well, that's all I did,

so I was usually better

than anybody else in my class.

But I wasn't that great.

I was-- You know,

when you're 6 years old...

[director] But how'd

you learn it?

You just draw every day,

because that's all

you wanted to do.

I didn't want to play, you know,

baseball or anything.

That was too boring.

And then at school, everybody--

You know, a lot of kids

had brothers and played baseball

and football and all that stuff.

And boy, did I hate that.

You know, I just didn't like it.

I didn't know how to do it.

And I couldn't hit the damn ball

with that bat, you know.

And then they'd always

put me as far out

in the field as possible.

And then if a ball did come,

I was usually daydreaming

about something.

Oh, just anything pretty.

I don't know.

[rock music playing]

If I could turn back time

If I could find a way

[cheering and applause]

[intense music playing]

[dance music playing]

[man] Well, when I got famous

about 27 years ago,

I wanted to check off my list

of people I needed to contact.

And at the top of that list

was Bob Mackie.

All rise for Bob Mackie.

[cheering and applause]

You know, all the real stars,

all the biggest stars,

wore Bob Mackie.

[reverential music playing]

[cheering]

It was because it actually made

them look like the superstar

that they were.

Have you ever fed a lover

With just your hands?

[cheering]

Close your eyes and trust it

Just trust it

Have you ever thrown

A fistful of glitter

In the air

Have you ever looked fear

In the face and said

I just don't care

[Pink] When you're going to meet

Bob Mackie for the first time

and you think about all these

drawings and years and years

and years of Hollywood creation,

you think that you're going to

be in the room

with this fabulous,

arrogant queen.

And he's just the nicest,

most soft spoken...

I call it quiet power,

because people that are still

trying to find their power

and exercise their power

are usually loud

and boisterous and passionate.

But someone like that

that's been around for so long,

he's just like, "No,

that's not going to work.

Let's try something else." Or,

"No, that could be nice."

We do argue a lot.

We don't always see eye to eye,

but at the end of the day,

what he puts me in

makes me feel really good.

It's only half past

The point of oblivion

The hourglass on the table

The walk before the run

The breath before the kiss

And the fear

Before the flames

Have you ever

Felt this way and...

[applause]

[Pink] The process

with Bob and Joe,

you know, you go to

this fantastic old building

and there's all

these old costumes,

and they're all over the wall,

and there's fabric everywhere.

And they start by getting you

completely naked,

And they take every

measurement of every body part.

It's fun. We laugh.

I've been known to cry.

You have to stand up

on this mini stage

with a spotlight on you

because he wants to know

exactly how it's going to look.

Have you ever

Wished for an endless night

Lassoed the moon

And the stars

And pulled that rope tight

Have you ever held your breath

And asked yourself

Will it ever get...

[Pink] If you look at just

the "Glitter in the Air" outfit

that he made for me...

I mean, who in their right mind

would want to design bandages

for someone to wear,

and think that they could

make that look

graceful and beautiful?

But it is one of the most,

I think, iconic outfits,

if not the most iconic outfit

of my career,

that glitter outfit.

[cheering and applause]

It's very rare that

fashion designers

are designing specifically

for a performer.

Right? People design collections

for runway or for the consumer.

And when you're working

on performance clothing,

it's about

a very specific thing.

It's about real character study.

It's about understanding

what that person's

fantasies are,

what they want to project

and who they want to be

in the future,

and what do they need to achieve

in that moment.

It seems just all

fabulous in the end,

but you're really

trying to pick up

on somebody's essence.

You know, that invisible thing

that's going to come out

and create that connection

of magic

with an audience, and make

millions of people dream.

[man] Somebody told me this

years ago,

that every superhero

has a costume.

And clothes help you become

whatever superhero

you want to be.

And it's not that you're hiding

inside of the clothes, or...

But there is a certain

confidence,

and there is a certain thing

that happens when you

put the right girl

in the right dress.

So the whole business

of dressing a celebrity

is more cerebral

and more psychological

than anything else.

[cheering and applause]

We were good

We were gold

Kind of dream

That can't be sold

Ooh, we were right

Till we weren't

Built a home

Then watched it burn

One of the best parts of wearing

Bob Mackie on stage

is that sometimes

the audience is just as excited

to see a Bob Mackie in person

as they are to see you.

Oh, I can buy myself flowers

Write my name in the sand

Why are you acting

like you don't know this song?

Stay up for hours

See things

You don't understand

[Cyrus] I mean,

it really looked like

I was giving it all I got,

but I wasn't really doing

anything but minding my business

and singing the damn song,

because Bob and his dress

was really doing all the work.

-You can

-Can love me better

I can love me better, baby

Can love me better

I think a little wind doesn't

hurt, right, Bob? A little wind.

The fabric, the beads,

picking up that beachy breeze,

down at the old crypto center.

[music tempo increases]

Can love me better

Can love me better

I can love me better baby

-Can love me better

-I can love me, can love me

Can love me better

I can love me better baby

-Can love me better

-I can love me, can love me

Can love me better

I can love me better, baby

Can love me better

I can love me better

I can love me better

Than you can

[cheering and applause]

[slow string music playing]

[indistinct chatter]

[siren wails]

[director] Actually, let me get

a shot of these cops.

It looks like you're getting

a police escort.

[laughter]

-[Mackie] God.

-[director] Wow,

this guy's important.

[director] So your date for this

evening is Janelle, right?

-[woman] No, Joe.

-[McFate] Mr. Joe.

-I'm working.

-[McFate] She's working.

Are you kidding? I got in,

got in by just the last second,

by a hair.

-Yeah, I'm the date.

-[director] You're the date.

I'm the hard-working

woman tonight

-Yes--

-Well, that sounded weird.

No, I have no date.

These are my people.

[director] Oh, wow.

Entourage.

[director] So Cher told us

about the first Met Gala

that she attended.

Yeah? What did she say?

Well, she was telling us

a little about the evening.

It was fun and smaller

at that time.

She had a really good time.

[piano music playing]

[Cher] That was the most

amazing night.

It just was the most

amazing night ever.

I didn't know what I was

going to wear to this party

because it was the first party.

And Bob was saying, "What do

you think you want to wear?"

And I knew.

I knew what I wanted to wear.

There was only one

thing I wanted to wear,

and it was the dress.

And what it was

was that it was nude.

And it was almost like a--

It was a kind of gauze fabric.

And the exhibition--

It was actually

the Hollywood exhibition.

It was Diana Vreeland's

Hollywood Exhibition

of Time and Glamour.

And of course, we were sitting

with Diana Vreeland's table,

And we had movies,

old movie stars,

and all these amazing people.

And it was just so much fun.

The Met Ball used to be

catered by Glorious Food.

And I was a waiter

for Glorious Food that night.

I was entranced

by a great silent film star

who most people

are too young to remember

named Lillian Gish, who was

one of the great actresses

of the early film days.

And Lillian Gish

was sitting by herself,

and she was lit

by one candle on the table.

It was like a silent movie put

into color and brought to life.

She was riveting.

And just at that moment,

Cher walked in with Bob Mackie.

And at that point,

Lillian Gish looked up

and she went,

"Oh, my. Look at her."

And I did,

and so did everybody else

in the room.

[Cher] It's not like I think,

"Oh, I walk in here,

I'm going to be

the most beautiful woman."

But I'm going to walk in

and I'm going to be me,

and whatever that is

at the moment,

I don't care what people

think, truthfully.

And this guy came up to me

and said,

how does it feel

to be at this party naked?

And I went, "I don't know.

It feels okay."

I mean, it was, like,

such a stupid question.

My mom was pretty amazing.

My mom was beautiful,

had a great body.

She could-- She kicked a*s.

And she was a model.

And so I learned a lot

about carrying myself

when I wore a dress.

And carrying myself

kind of made me think,

"I don't give a f*ck

what any of you guys think."

You know?

You're like, "I'm going to do

what I want to do

because it's me,

and if you like me--"

Oh, I've had plenty of times

in my life where people thought,

you know, "You're out of here."

I mean, constantly.

"You won't be here another day."

"You won't be here

another decade."

"You won't be here

another minute."

[director over computer]

I'm still here.

That's my reaction.

It's like, I'll be here

when you might be gone.

[director]

She was indeed.

It's a beautiful all--

Shiny black floor

and all these men in tuxedos,

and Mitzi in a nude dress.

[announcer]

[cheering and applause]

Oh, my gosh, that dress.

Well, the let-go dress.

It's about

half an inch of souffle,

and the rest is Mitzi.

Right now, but right now

-Hold back

-Be practical, Jack and

Hold back

You feel like

You're busting inside

Your heart's

In a desperate divide

Hold back, hold back

Hold back, hold back

[Gaynor] Bob liked my figure.

And he said he wanted

to show my figure off.

So he wanted to do something,

a nude dress.

So I said, "Oh, Bob,

I can't wear that."

He said, "Sure you can."

So he did some tights,

you know, some stockings

with hooks on them...

and a little tiny...

I'm trying to show you, girls.

It's like a...

What can I say, it's like a...

camisole.

But it's just sheer, you know,

with the thread down the center

to show where it joins,

and hooks and eyes.

And that's underneath,

and that's it.

Now, the dress is chiffon...

but not the kind of chiffon

that we all know.

It's more called souffle,

which is the finest chiffon

you can find.

It's real silk.

And that's beads.

My neck is covered to here,

long sleeves, long to the floor,

and that's it, nude colored.

And I think we can

show that dress.

Can't we show that dress?

[director]

Let go, let the moon know

You're alive

Let the world know

You believe

Let the world know

How you love to give

Don't tell it in the city

Go tell it on the mountain

Go tell them all

Until they hear

[Rubenstein]

And she-- Like, quote,

"you thought she was naked,"

but honestly,

she exposed nothing.

But it was the combination

of her height, of her movement

that, yes, the way the beads--

It's brilliant construction.

It's unbelievable.

But it was also the...

It was the confidence.

People always talk about

how style is really confidence.

It was the confidence

that Cher had

when she wore it,

when she wore these clothes.

And I think also, the confidence

that Bob instilled in her.

And she basically upstaged

everybody else in the room.

Nobody remembers anything else.

And of course, and then

it wound up on the cover

of Time magazine.

[director]

That must have been

quite a moment for you

because that was the "it"

publication in the 1970s.

And it still kind of is.

But that must have

really impacted you.

It did, but I think a lot of it

had to do with the dress.

And in some of the

Southern states,

they just took the cover off.

And it was almost head to toe.

You could see everything,

and a little bit of her

in there too, you know,

quite a bit of her.

And people were, like, shocked.

But you couldn't see anything.

You just thought you could.

That's the way my dresses are.

You never really

can see anything.

-[McFate] Who's in the elevator?

-You just think you can.

[McFate] Show Bob.

-[director] It's an illusion?

-Illusion. It is an illusion.

-That's the secret, then.

-That's what they call it.

The moment of time

that you grow up,

the moment of time that you see

the first woman

that just moves you,

and you think, "Oh, my God,

she's breathtakingly beautiful,"

I think those things

stay with you.

And I think they ultimately

form a sense of taste and style

that remains with you

your entire life.

Your core sensibilities,

I believe, are really formed,

not necessarily in childhood,

but let's say

early adolescence, adolescence.

And the interesting thing is,

my tastes

were formed in the '70s.

And the clothes of Bob Mackie

were very much

part of what I absorbed

as visual beauty.

[dramatic music playing]

And, come on,

let's face it. Cher.

I mean, what better body

to put clothes on,

or to put very few clothes on

than that gorgeous creature?

Let me entertain you

What are my real measurements?

[laughter]

Well...

[laughter and applause]

Hold on just a second. Bob?

Let me do

[man] I think Bob

and Cher are family.

Maybe they're not connected

by DNA officially,

but they're connected.

They're both shy.

Isn't that interesting?

They're both shy.

And both of them

have this talent

to express themselves in a way

that's larger than life.

And Bob realized, hey, you know,

this is an opportunity

to create a character.

And Cher really became

a character under his guidance,

and developed all these

wild and crazy looks

that more or less

helped make her into a star.

[Mackie] And great charisma.

You know, people just

are fascinated with her.

This many years later,

50 years later,

people are filling up stadiums

to see

what she's going to look like.

[McFate] She inhabits

those clothes like

a comfortable pair of jeans.

She doesn't think all this

crazy stuff is that outrageous.

But she wears it with a casual

flair that nobody else can.

[applause]

Let me sing you some songs

Some rock and roll

music songs

That you ain't ever heard

And if you're real good

I'll make you feel good

I want your spirits to climb

So let me entertain you

And we'll have

A real good time

Oh, yeah

We'll have

We'll have a real good time

Oh, yeah

We'll have a real good time

[applause]

Can I hear a little commotion

for the dress? Hm?

A little bit?

[applause]

Thank you.

Now let's hear it

for the back of the dress.

[cheering and applause]

Anyway, my name is Cher.

That's, like, to me, the perfect

collaboration, Cher and Bob.

As a matter of fact,

we used to tape

right next door

to

And on any given night,

if Cher was doing

her big number,

we'd all have to go see

what Cher was wearing.

So you literally would run

through the ladies room

because that connected

the two--

Because they'd close

those big stage doors.

So the quickest way to get there

was through the toilet.

So you'd run through the ladies'

room, run on to Cher's stage

to see what she was wearing.

And it was always

something incredible.

It's this kind of cosmic

type of emotional thing

that's really bigger

than just the clothes.

Almost all of those clothes

can be worn in some way

by someone tomorrow,

and still be great,

and still get a lot of attention

and still tell a story.

[man] When you talk about

her life, she interjects a lot.

And all of her

stories involve Bob

because they created looks

for each moment together.

But she said her life really

changed when Bob came into it.

And they had this collaboration,

this shorthand,

where they could

both plan to shock

and titillate audiences in a

way that nobody had before.

Certainly on network television,

they were scandalous.

And they loved it.

You know,

they pushed each other.

And there's a great line

in the show

where the censor is complaining

about her belly button,

or under-boob.

The censor's complaining

that under-boob is showing.

He said, "Well, maybe if we just

stand her on her head,

it'll be cleavage."

And we took the line.

It's Bob's real line,

and it's in the show.

And I think that was

kind of the fun for them,

the two of them

against the world.

[dramatic music playing]

You gotta be ready to be noticed

if you're wearing Bob Mackie.

[director]

Ready to be noticed.

[both laughing]

Yeah.

[Posen] I've known Bob

and Bob's work my whole life.

I mean, I'll never forget that

moment, probably, what, 1986?

And it was such

a climactic moment,

just in media

and in the world, right?

Everything was excessive

and bejeweled.

I mean, we're living kind of

in that moment of excess.

But here was something

that was shocking.

And it was in that moment

of excess,

but it was still beautiful.

[applause]

In fact, I think Jane Fonda

was the one who introduced her.

And she says, wait till you see

what she has coming out in.

To present the Oscar

for Supporting Actor

is one of the most

glamorous people

in this or any other business,

and you better believe it.

Wait till you see

what's gonna come out here.

She herself

was a Best Supporting Actress

nominee for her role

in

won acclaim

for her work in

Ladies and gentlemen,

in a word, Cher.

[director]

Well, I was in town,

and I don't know

if she was here doing a film

or she was here

just hanging out with Tom Cruise

in his apartment.

I just went over and she said,

I'm going to be

presenting an Oscar.

Wasn't she mad about something?

Well, she was--

Yeah, she was pissed off.

[Cher] Because I didn't get

nominated for a movie

that everyone thought

I would actually win,

but I didn't get nominated,

and they thought

I wasn't serious.

I didn't dress

like a serious actress,

and I had--

My boyfriends were strange.

So I decided--

I had this idea in my mind.

Well, she said,

"I'm giving out this award,

and they haven't seen me

look like I used to look."

Because she'd been

making movies.

She was in these movies

where she was playing kind of

down-and-dirty characters,

you know.

-[director] Silkwood, right?

-Silkwood.

And, you know,

she wasn't glamorous.

And they hadn't seen her

all dressed up.

And for her to get dressed up,

it didn't mean putting on

a pretty dress.

It meant putting on, you know,

a good outfit. [laughs]

And I had my sketch pad,

and I started drawing.

I'd just draw a little bit

because I knew I probably

wouldn't see her again

for a month or so,

so I had to get it all moving.

[Cher] Sometimes I'd say,

"I have this idea."

And I think I just started

with the big feathers.

And I said, "I just want the--"

He said, "You don't have to

say anything else.

We have real shorthand

with each other too.

I said, "Well, should she

have a loin cloth?"

"Oh, yeah, I want a loin cloth."

Well, you think, "Oh..."

Well, maybe you could have

these black tights with boots.

And she,

"Oh, yeah, that's cool."

You know, before you know it,

she had the big wrap

and the big Mohawk headdress.

[director]

So there's a lot of mystique

around the creation of these,

and no one really knows,

the chicken or the egg.

Are you giving him the ideas?

No, no, no. Not usually.

Not usually.

Only for a couple.

Only for a couple.

That one I just had--

It came to me.

You know what I mean?

It just kind of came to me.

You know, and I thought,

"Are you sure you wanna

dress like this for the Oscars?"

[upbeat music playing]

[Mackie] That girl, she knows.

She knows how to get

her picture in the paper.

[Cher] It's so exciting,

and it's so much fun.

Like, you see the design

on paper

and you know what you're

going to be able to do in it.

And I was coming around,

and Jane Fonda

was coming around,

and she looked at me

and she said,

"Cher, please wait till I get to

my seat before you come out.

Just, please," she said.

"I can't wait.

I want to see

everybody's reaction."

[applause]

Thank you. Thank you.

And I walked out and I said--

As you can see,

I did receive my Academy booklet

on how to dress

like a serious actress.

[audience laughing]

And it was kind of my,

you know--

My you-know-what moment.

[director]

What does that mean,

the you-know-what moment?

My "f*ck you" moment

to the Academy.

Because it was like, you know,

all you have to judge me on

is my work, not my life.

Who cares about a beautiful

dress sometimes at the Oscars?

Sometimes you want more.

You want something that's

gonna stand the test of time

and that people

are still gonna really see

when we're all dead and gone.

It's like, that Cher thing

is still gonna be there,

and it's still

gonna be f*cking crazy.

And I think that's really great.

A collaboration is way more

interesting and exciting

than a one-off gig.

You learn from mistakes

and you fail in order to do

really amazing things.

So when you're doing

great costumes,

that's usually from knowing

the person well,

and knowing

what you can get away with.

How something's going to look

on stage, how someone moves,

how their body reacts to fabric,

and to cut, and how

they can handle themselves.

[Mackie] When she first

appeared at the Oscars

in her big Mohawk thing

with her bare midriff,

giving an award to Don Ameche,

people were horrified.

"Why, that's not fashion."

They were just--

They were just horrified.

And now, every year they say,

"Why can't it be like the old

days when Cher came to the--"

You know.

The same thing

just goes on and on and on.

[director] But as

the man behind that...

-What?

-You're the man behind that.

No, but I tell you, I'm

more conservative than that.

But she wanted

to make a big splash

because nobody had seen her

dress like that for a long time.

[woman] I mean, Bob

invented the red carpet

as far as I'm concerned.

All the very sheer

clothes that Cher wore,

and others, which years later

many of the designers

were doing on Jennifer Lopez

and Beyonc.

I mean, Bob was doing that

before anybody,

strategically placing

some sequins and beads

in all the right places.

He made women look so beyond

extraordinary and sexy,

and it was never--

I don't think it was ever tacky.

It was just right

for the occasion.

[Cher] I met him when I was 19,

so I had on

what I considered fashion.

Sonny and I

wore our fashion, right?

But I did not

understand anything

about the world of fashion.

You know, Bob did costumes,

and fashion people looked down

on him for some reason.

This is my theory of it.

He showed different parts,

but it was great fashion.

It wasn't that everything

wasn't beautifully designed.

It was just,

you were seeing things

that you hadn't seen before.

I mean, no one had ever

seen a belly button on TV.

But I think we got away with it

because Sonny and I

were married.

I mean, they weren't

going for it in the beginning,

but we just kept pushing.

And when they did research

and saw how important

the clothes were,

then they backed off,

and then they were, "Okay,

spend whatever you want."

I don't know who woke up

one day and said,

"I'm the king of saying

that costuming isn't art,"

because it is.

[woman] So when he got that CFDA

award, I was so happy for him

because he finally got the nod

from them, realizing,

"Of course, we've been stealing

from you for years."

But back when he started,

it was still a more sedate

fashion world,

and a little too serious.

And now it's not

that way at all.

[director]

Fashion is

a little snobby, right?

A little bit.

So when you have someone

who's a showman,

who's about feathers

and sequins,

you might not think that is

a level of taste or of design

that is warranted recognition.

Well, I think time

tells truth, right?

[director]

Well, some people say, you know,

you work on a character

from the inside out.

But there are those,

and I'm one of those,

who knows that you can develop

a character from the outside in.

I've always said that drag

is like the Superman

to my Clark Kent,

because something happens

when you put on

a Bob Mackie outfit.

Something magical happens.

Good evening. I'm Bob Mackie.

Welcome aboard, Mr. Mackie.

I'm Captain Stubing.

-It's an honor to meet you.

-Thank you, captain.

Mr. Mackie designs the gowns

for all the big TV stars.

Carol Burnett,

Anne Margaret, Cher.

That's right. You've heard them

say clothes make the man.

Well, I'm the man

that makes the clothes.

-I hope you enjoy the cruise.

-I'm sure I will.

Milhouse, if you stay

a little while longer,

you can have this blazer.

It's a Bob Mackie original.

Wow, a Bob Mackie.

Who likes glittery, fun things?

Holy sh*t, is that a

f*cking Bob Mackie gown?

Yeah.

[man 1] Oh, my goodness.

-Um, you might want to see this.

-[man 2] Mm.

-It's Ms. Cummings.

-Uh-oh.

-Is it ever Ms. Cummings.

-Oh, my...

Oh, my God.

[man 2] Bob Mackie, where

are you when we need you?

[man 1] She looks like a

c*ck waitress

-on an oil rig or something.

-[laughing]

Doesn't--? Look at the piping.

Look at the piping.

[applause]

[piano playing]

[director]

[Hamilton] Mm-hm. Yeah.

I think for Cher and Bob,

it was mutual.

I think Bob put

his stamp on Elton.

Absolutely.

He helped craft

that era of Elton John.

[cheering and applause]

Elton was on a special

with Cher and Bette Midler.

And the three of them

worked together,

and they sang together,

and they were quite fabulous.

And he's looking

at what Cher's got on.

And I dressed him.

I did a great outfit for him.

It was all silver and quilted,

and a big top hat.

-Moc

-Yeah

-King

-Yeah

-Bird

-Yeah

-Yeah

-Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah

Mockingbird now

Everybody have you heard

Have you heard

He's gonna buy me...

[Mackie] And she was

all in silver and white,

and Bette was all silver bangles

and sequins.

It was fun.

And he said, "Would you make me

some costumes?" Some outfits,

or some suits, or whatever.

I don't know what

he said exactly.

I said, "Well, what kind of

things would you like?"

And he said, "Well,

things like you do for Cher."

And I went, "Okay."

And I did.

Well, Bob did a lot of things

for Elton John in the '70s,

and Elton loved everything,

and he would try anything.

And so he was game.

[director]

I think Elton was pushing Bob.

[John] Most designers, I think,

when you wear their clothes,

they become part of you,

and they become your friends.

And that's why I like to have

relationships with designers.

Because you get to know them,

they get to know you,

and you have fun with them.

Do I regret any of it?

Not really.

There's some clunkers,

but there always is.

But I'm surprised

that Donald Duck outfit

wasn't in here.

But again, it was Bob Mackie

thinking, "All right,

You're gonna be Donald Duck."

And I went, "Oh, fine.

Great, lovely."

[director]

Me.

Well, he had one

as Minnie Mouse once.

You know, figure that one out.

[director] Did he suggest it?

Well, "What could I

dress up like?"

And he said,

"Could I be Minnie Mouse?"

And I said,

"Yeah, sure you can."

Why not?

And I said,

"How about Donald Duck?"

And we did a couple

of different ones.

And he reacted to that?

Oh, he loved it.

He just loved dressing up.

You know, he was-- That was when

you'd see him really laughing,

and he was having the best time.

But throughout my career,

clothes have been

somewhat important.

Without that process

of dressing up

and looking different

and having fun,

I would never have been

the artist that I became. Never.

[McFate] "And guess what?

The TDF costume collection,

in honor of Met Gala's theme

of camp,

join us in toasting to

The King of Camp, Bob Mackie."

[laughs]

-Who did that?

-The TDF. They've put a note--

-Your costume collection.

-Yeah, it's your whole video.

Well, here I am,

the King of Camp,

and I'm trying to be

so conservative.

-That's the one that I said--

-Yeah, that's the back--

No, but this is--

-[director]

This really is your night.

-No, it isn't really my night.

King of Camp?

Well...

[all laughing]

-[McFate] I don't know.

-They think it is, I guess.

[McFate] Clearly.

Well, two journalists said that

today, that you're the King--

Most people don't even

know what "camp" is.

[Ottenberg] "Camp is an

aesthetic style and sensibility

that regards something

as appealing

because of its bad taste

and ironic value."

Um...

Okay, that sounds so negative

though, doesn't it?

I mean, camp is--

I don't see camp as being bad.

I mean, like,

it's very "ta-da," right?

Ta-da!

That's what we're going

to Bob Mackie for. "Ta-da."

[upbeat cabaret music playing]

Of course.

Yes, but with good humor.

Absolutely.

I mean, campy is great

if it's done with love

and with technique and care.

Of course.

I mean, this is razzle-dazzle.

This is-- This is magic land.

[upbeat cabaret music playing]

I mean, you know,

like, Las Vegas.

I used to do big shows

in Vegas, the showgirls.

Outfits on showgirls

are the campiest thing

that ever happened

if you do it right.

And I loved doing it.

It was fun.

It kind of came natural.

I don't know why.

[director]

Was it born with the musicals

that you watched as a kid?

Somewhat.

There were showgirls

in musicals,

seeing, you know,

and those fabulous MGM things.

And it was just...

I-- I guess I liked it.

It sunk in, I guess.

I don't know.

[opening theme music playing]

[Mackie] I love movies,

I loved going

to Technicolor movies

and musicals and all that.

And-- And actually, they

used to take me to the movies

when I was a little kid,

my sister and my mother.

[dramatic music score playing]

The one movie,

when I really decided

to become a costume designer,

was a Gene Kelly movie,

An American in Paris

And I went, "Oh, I could

do this. I bet I could do this."

And before I knew it, I knew

the name of every movie star

and what they did, and what

they looked, how they dressed.

Carmen Miranda

was my favorite movie star

when I was, you know,

like 6 years old.

But why not?

She was like a clown.

She was like-- All that color

and all that stuff in her hair,

and the fruit and the--

I mean, she's crazy.

["Mama Eu Quero" playing]

[singing in Spanish]

[Mackie] I'm a lucky guy

because I got to do

kind of what I always thought

I would like to do.

And you don't always

get to do that.

[man] You know, it's funny,

and I can't imagine as a

little kid going to the movies.

I know so many of the generation

of post-Depression or Depression

went to the movies.

That was a way to escape.

And here was a little kid

who is soaking in these details.

He can tell you, even though

there were no VCR tapes or DVD,

there was no way to remember

except for your imagination.

And I know that Bob

could sit here today and say,

"Betty Grable wore this,

and I loved how they did that,

and there was this corsage and

then there was this neckline."

[upbeat music playing]

Put your arms around me, honey

Hold me tight

Huddle up and cuddle up

With all your might

[Barnes] And so

there's something about,

when you're defining camp,

I think you can't comment on it.

You have to love it.

And it has to come from

a place of deep knowledge.

And it's why it appeals to us.

It's emotional, because we see

that corsage or that neckline,

and we think, "I can't tell you

that Betty Grable wore that

in, you know, 1946 in a film."

And yet, it resonates with me.

It makes me feel happy.

It makes me actually emotional.

It makes me teary.

There's something

about connecting

with just cloth,

a story that somehow

we all are carrying around,

a history

that we're carrying around.

[director] Did your mother

notice that you were

finding it so fascinating?

Uh, no, my mother

could never understand

what I did for a living.

She just never did.

I mean, she knew.

And she liked being Bob Mackie's

mother, because that--

But then she hated it if

somebody was friendly with her

because she was.

She couldn't quite

make up her mind, you know,

because there was a time

when, you know, I was doing

a lot of famous people,

which made me better known

at the time.

And, you know,

it's just kind of amazing

how she wasn't interested

in that as a career.

But she was never interested

in what I was doing.

She was like a selfish woman,

but, you know, took me places

that she knew I would like to go

when we would visit.

I actually lived with

my grandmother for years.

And my mother

was like the Auntie Mame

who would take you out for those

special things, but this way,

she didn't have to deal

with the day-to-day things.

And she and my father,

I don't think

they were ever

together that long.

It was like--

Because he went off to the w*r.

You know,

because I was born in '39.

So then when he came

back from the w*r,

I was so excited when

he came back from the w*r.

I don't know. I was probably

6 or 7 at that point.

And I remember seeing him come

on the Union Station in LA.

And he was in

a whole Canadian uniform

because he went back to Canada.

That's where he went back

to join the Army.

And he had a beret,

and a thing, and the stuff--

And I thought,

"Oh, that's my dad."

You know, I was so excited.

And then he wasn't--

He really didn't wanna be--

He'd had a child earlier

that he didn't

pay any attention to,

and he wasn't

too interested in me either.

So it was one of those.

[director]

But did you love him?

Um, well, I wanted to,

but I never really did.

I just felt like

he didn't like me.

And if he doesn't like me,

I'm not gonna like him.

He couldn't

figure me out at all.

Because he came from a place

of more of a machismo thing?

Exactly, very machismo.

Very, "Yeah, big Chuck."

You know.

Let me tell you, it's hard

if you're kind of strange child,

and you're a little artistic,

and there are things

that you wanna do

and nobody understands

why you'd want to do that.

Because they have

no conception of--

You know,

the first time I told...

I think I told an uncle

or one of my mother's boyfriends

or something.

"Well, Bobby, what do you

want to be when you grow up?"

And I said, "Well, I'd like

to be a costume designer

on Broadway."

[applause]

Do you believe in life

After love

I can feel something

Inside me say

I really don't think

You're strong enough

Do you believe in life

After love

[indistinct chatter]

[applause]

You know, like Ruth Gordon said

at the Oscars several years ago,

this is very encouraging

for an 80-year-old.

Thank you.

Thank you so much.

[applause]

[indistinct chatter]

[Mackie] You see what it is?

Yeah. And then she says

kisses and loving,

kisses, kisses, kisses,

in giant letters, me.

Like there's anybody else.

Bernadette Peters.

-Here's Bernadette Peters.

-[man] Hey.

Oh, here's Carol.

So they wrote, "Yippee, yippee,

clap, clap, clap, clap, clap."

And then at the bottom,

she said, "Dust off

the mantelpiece."

I was so thrilled

when he won the Tony.

-[director] Yes.

-Oh, my gosh.

You were watching

pretty intently?

Oh, I was screaming.

Yeah. Yeah.

Oh, I have a bone to pick...

with the Academy Awards,

with the Academy Awards.

He was nominated

for

[Broadway music playing]

And that year, it was a

movie about the racing--

Men, runners.

[main theme from

Chariots of Fire

That won for Best Costuming.

All they did was have numbers.

I mean, I was so angry. What?

And you'd look at what Bob

did in

He did the whole

Depression look

and then all of the

musical stuff, and the--

I mean...

Chariots of Fire

Crazy.

[Mackie]

I never thought about it.

[woman] Who is the weirdest

one in your family?

No pressure.

I better get the table top down.

-[Mackie] No, but--

Think about people--

-I won't tell--

It doesn't mean

you don't love them.

-You're just--

-[man] So true.

-Yeah.

-[woman] Keep

drinking your wine.

We'll find out some of

the other family members.

Everybody always

thought I was weird.

[Townsend] You were.

Weird is good.

[woman] You were just talented.

They'd just say,

"Oh, that's Bobby."

[Townsend] Unique, different.

-"Oh, Bobby. Oh, yeah, well"...

-Odd.

Kira wouldn't call you weird.

She'd call you odd.

Well, yeah.

-I was odd.

-Odd.

[Townsend] And now

how do you feel about that?

Didn't you just have

a month of awards for--

Yeah, but that-- But...

-A lifetime of uniqueness.

-[Mackie] Odd sometimes helps.

Yeah.

You want to win the odd title?

Is that what you're

doing right now?

-You're doing--

-[Mackie] You're on your way.

Yeah, she's trying.

That's funny.

[director] What do you know

about those two little girls?

I don't know so much.

Joe is the man to go to

for that.

I know that he sends them--

They show me pictures

of the gifts and stuff

that they send out to them,

but I've never met them.

I've seen pictures of them.

I'm, like, thinking, "Do you

know that your grandfather's

Bob Mackie? That you can come

to the office and try on gowns?"

He could probably even

dress them for prom.

-[director] Or Halloween.

-Or Halloween.

Or prom, in, like,

Bob Mackie couture.

Like, they have no idea--

Or maybe they do,

like, how lucky they are.

[McFate] He discovered

later in his life that

he had a granddaughter

and two great granddaughters.

And it was the most joyful,

most emotional moment

in his life

because I think

he went for so long

without having immediate family.

He's very close

with his ex-wife,

who he maintains

a relationship with to this day.

And to discover

that he had a granddaughter

and two great granddaughters

is the greatest gift.

-Oh, toasting.

-[Townsend] Yes.

-Be sure and look in the eye.

-[Townsend] Okay.

All right,

I'm gonna make a round.

-[girl] Just to my--

-To family and fun.

Yay. Cheer, cheers.

To Kira.

[laughing]

My arm's not long enough. Okay.

[ex-wife] Cheers. Cheers, Kyla.

[Townsend] Kyla. Kyla, stop.

-Here's to you.

-Cheers.

-I've known you the longest.

-I know.

A long time.

Cheers.

-[Townsend] How many years?

-[ex-wife] Since I was 15.

-[Mackie] Fifteen?

-I was 15.

-How old was I? 16?

-Yep.

-So just do the math.

-Yep.

-This is Daddy's fork.

-[Mackie] I have

to have tomatoes.

[poignant music playing]

[Porter] Yeah, we have history.

So we go way back, 60 years.

[Mackie] Yeah we've known each

other a long time.

[director] So, Joe let me

know you discovered

you had this new family

because of Robin, your son.

Can you talk about Robin?

-I can't.

-It's hard.

It's, um... It's really hard.

-I won't get through it.

-No, me either.

[phone ringing]

-[McFate]

Hey, I'm great.

So listen, I have one specific

question for you, which is--

Okay.

I have broached

the subject twice with Bob

when it comes to his son, Robin.

And I think people

are very interested in Bob

and how he became this

costume-designer extraordinaire,

but also, what makes him tick

and the origins of things.

And I think the impact

of Robin on his life,

I just want to make sure, and

I know it's sensitive for Bob,

obviously, from his answers

that he's given me,

that he kind of shuts it down.

But I'm hoping that you could

shed some light for myself,

but also the people

who are gonna watch this film,

about what exactly took place,

and give us

a little more detail.

I didn't know Robin

because he died

before I came around.

He died in 1993.

And I know that he is very

sensitive about Robin

because it was such

a terrible end to a young life

when he died.

It was in all the newspapers

that Bob's son had died,

and very publicly,

that he died of

an HIV-related illness.

[Miele] And then what did

Robin do for a living?

Robin was a makeup artist,

and rather successful.

Of course, again,

in the shadow of Bob.

And then ultimately, when he

passed away, it was HIV--

Robin had a drug problem,

and they were all aware of it.

And Robin had a lot of

girlfriends at the time,

and they were all taking

care of him when he got sick.

Oh, so it came from

some sort of intravenous drug?

-Use, correct.

And of course,

that was devastating.

It was such a young life.

And you think about Bob's career

was really taking off

in his late 20s and early 30,

and here is a guy

who never even had a chance.

And that stuck.

It's stuck with him to this day,

he still talks about

what a difficult life

that was for Robin.

[Townsend] When I was

in eighth grade,

my aunt came over,

and she brought

a

that had an article about Bob

when Robin had passed away.

I knew my dad wasn't

my biological father,

but I didn't know anything

else really, otherwise.

We just didn't talk

about it too much.

Um, so my aunt

shared the article,

and my mom said,

"Yeah, this is about your dad

and your biological grandpa."

And, oh, I'm an awkward

13-year-old who didn't really

know what to say or do

about it and didn't want my...

I thought it was really cool

because it was

in

So of course, I took

the magazine to school

and showed all of my friends

and things like that.

But I never really talked

too much to my parents about it

because I figured

it probably had

to be more of an awkward

time in my mom's life.

And we talked about it

a little bit then,

and she showed me

prom pictures

of her and Rob

going to prom together,

and a little bit about him,

and cut to--

I'm thinking about it every

once in a while throughout life.

My-- When I got married to Troy,

my mother-in-law was like,

"You have to contact

your grandpa. He can

make you a wedding dress."

I'm like, "That is not

really how I want to start..."

-What a lovely idea.

-My-- Yeah, like, no.

Bob's granddaughter

wrote a letter to the office

and asked us,

essentially, she said,

"I'm Bob's granddaughter,

and I really don't

want anything.

I just want to know him.

I'd like to meet him,

and I have a daughter

that I'd like him to know."

And she sent photographs.

And the photographs looked an

awful lot like Bob's son, Robin.

And so there was

an immediate connection

because she looked

like Robin so much.

[Mackie] Yeah, well,

the minute I got the letter,

I went, "Oh, my God.

This is crazy.

I mean, really?

-Are we sure?"

-[Townsend] Yeah.

You know?

And then I call Lulu right away

and I said--

Because we're close.

We talk all the time.

And it's kind of like

you just hope...

-You don't know what to think.

-[Townsend] I can imagine.

Especially when you're out there

and you're on TV,

and they're talking...

Who knows?

I mean, I just went,

"Oh, my gosh."

[Mackie] But not exactly.

But yet,

there's such a resemblance.

There's such a

resemblance that--

-No, but I mean, it was just--

-It was like, wow.

Oh, okay, yeah.

I just said to her,

I said, "I don't know.

I think it's pretty good."

It's wonderful,

because for us,

we have this extension

of our family now,

and it'll go on.

I'm still shaking

my head at times.

I go, "Wow,

this is just a miracle."

[sirens wailing]

[McFate] And here's a van.

But there's someone, they have--

[Hamilton] Someone must have

a massive costume.

-[Mackie] Maybe Cher's in there.

-[Hamilton] No.

We're smuggling her in back.

[McFate] We're smuggling her.

[Miele] What is she wearing

tonight, Bob?

-Do you know?

-Because it goes with it.

-Yeah.

-[McFate] That's perfect.

Well, I know what

she's supposed to be wearing.

She could change her mind,

I suppose.

She's wearing--

She's doing a couple of--

Actually, only one ABBA song.

And she's

in an ABBA-esque outfit

that she'll be using

in her act later.

And it's purplish.

[soft piano music playing]

[Miele] So do you ever

get nervous on how

it's going to come off?

[Mackie] Oh, I do.

-Really?

-Yes.

-Okay, there it is.

-Yes.

-[Miele] So there's nerves.

-I get very nervous about it,

because I want it always

to be perfect,

and some people, you know,

nothing's ever perfect.

So, what is perfect

in your mind?

When you see it,

what does it need to do?

That she looks exactly what we

intended to have her look like.

You know, that's all.

[Cher] He loves

going through beads

and sequins and fabric.

And he won't stop.

I said I want

this new ABBA dress

and I don't want it

to look like this or that.

I don't want to

look like an ABBA girl,

but I want to look like

something from that time period.

And Bob was such a genius,

and he sent me a sketch,

and two of my friends

were with me.

They went,

"He has still got it."

[Miele over computer]

that you kind of

were saying to yourself,

"Oh, I wish I could dress like

that someday"?

What actresses were you

admiring at the time?

Well, I used to watch

black-and-white movies

with my mom.

And so I would see, like,

Carole Lombard and Dietrich

and Bette Davis

and Ginger Rogers, who I loved.

And I didn't just

admire the women

that were dressed beautifully.

I admired the women

who were strong.

[Miele]

Because he has drawn

a lot of inspiration

from theater and a lot of the

costumes that came before,

do you feel like when you

put on those clothes,

you're harkening back, but it's

also looking forward as well?

I never was making a statement.

I just loved wearing

beautiful clothing.

And I was really poor

when I was a kid,

so it was a dream come true,

like Cinderella all the time.

[upbeat music playing]

-[Miele] Go for it.

-Go for what?

Walk into the studio.

You would go

arm-in-arm like that?

[woman] I met Bob 1982.

[Mackie]

Don't come out. [laughing]

[woman] Since I started,

he worked with me.

And we understand each other.

-How were we?

-[Miele] All good.

[Miele] What do you

understand about him?

I understand his color sense,

his imagination.

And he trusts me because he

knows that I understand.

That's the thing, you know,

in between us.

[Miele] So there only has to be

a few words between you

to understand

what the direction is?

Yeah.

And I should have

brought you one today.

We turned those...

-Oh, the robes?

-...and they look beautiful.

-They look--

-And how was the fringes?

-Perfect.

-What do you call it?

-Perfect.

-Okay.

And we pulled the bottom in

just a little bit.

So it goes--

It doesn't go straight.

-It comes together.

-It comes together. Yeah.

Oh, perfect.

See, they're... They're amazing.

He's the only one.

He's the only one.

I don't want to hurt the other

designers that I work with.

They know too.

So...

[Miele] What do you mean

he's the only one?

He's the only one.

He wants something,

he knows what he wants.

He sketches

and he puts on his patterns.

And the... finish

becomes the exact same thing

that he drew.

-So he's that precise?

-Yes.

And I have no problem

working with me.

And he's the only one

who can do that, really?

Yeah. He's the only one

who does this, you know, detail.

[McFate] He doesn't think of it

as a dying art. I mean,

Bob thinks that's the way

you make beautiful clothes.

Hand-beading and embroidery,

even machine embroidery.

But those techniques

are things that he learned,

and they are so beautiful,

he thinks that we should

continue using those methods.

The hand-beading is a process

now that can be done in India.

It can be done

in other countries

that know how to do that.

But for him, having the control

over the placement

of the embroidery

and the placement

of his drawing,

a lot of pattern makers

figure out

where the embroidery

is gonna go.

Bob insists

on placing the paisley

or placing the flower,

whatever it is

we're embroidering.

He figures out the scale

and the size of that.

That's as important to him

as the fit of the clothes.

[Miele] She showed us

in her studio how...

the sketches that you still do,

the intricacy of the sketch.

Right?

She said all the other

designers, they don't even...

They can't do that.

-Well, they don't do it.

-They don't do it.

[Miele] It's not

as simple as that.

-You're an architect.

-No, but I'm a control freak.

-I can't help it.

-There it is.

That's the understatement

of the week.

That's the meaning that

whatever he has in his mind,

he wants to get it out

the way he wants to.

-I mean--

-Nothing wrong with that.

There's nothing wrong with it.

It's not the control freak.

It's the way he wants it.

And we do it.

That's the secret.

But nothing wrong

with doing things right.

Exactly.

[Miele] The actual craft

of making it counts

how much in each--

Oh, it means everything.

You can make the most beautiful

sketches in the world,

and if it's not made right,

if it doesn't really fit,

it's not finished properly,

and it doesn't move properly,

it's not good.

And that happens.

There are a lot of people

out there making costumes

that aren't very good at it,

and a lot of designers

that don't know anything

about how to do it.

That, to me,

is the scariest part,

that they can be in a career

for decades and never--

They just sort of drop off

the sketch and come back

when it's finished.

That's disaster.

It's not easy to just imagine.

He gets the material

and he draws.

He has the sequin,

he has the rhinestones,

he has the beads,

and he puts them together.

He has the imagination.

He does it.

They did-- They copied the...

I don't know. I'm going

to show you the picture.

It's a Halloween costume.

[Mackie] You see, there,

you really can see that--

[McFate] ...photograph.

There you go.

[Miele] So all

of the women behind

the beautiful outfits are...

-Hold on, please.

-Armenians.

I have to say, I don't know

how Bob does it.

I hate designing costumes

for people.

I do it.

In fact, there are several

people I do it for quite often.

And there are people

that I've developed

a relationship with.

So maybe it was

like this for Bob.

But the reason I don't like it

is it's always been

so hard for me

to deal with the personalities

because I'm very dictatorial.

[Barnes] And you have to imagine

that fitting room

was not always just a love fest.

That there were times

when there was negotiation

and maybe bad behavior.

"Well, I'm not sure I like that.

Oh, yeah, yeah."

But there's always

that customer who's not sure,

and, "Are you sure?"

And then they call

the manager in,

and then they call the husband

or the wife or whatever.

I don't want to work

with people like that.

They have to trust me.

If they don't trust me,

I'm not interested.

[Miele] What are they trusting?

What are they--

They trust that I'll do

the right thing for them

and I'll make them look good.

But they're always

questioning everything.

From what Bob has

shared with me,

he often says Barbie

is his favorite client.

Like, you know,

she doesn't complain.

If he sticks a pin in her,

she won't say ouch.

He's done almost

60 Barbie dolls for us,

including one-of-a-kinds.

He loves kind of taking Barbie

to new, over-the-top places

that no one else has

taken her before.

Within the collector community,

I think the response

was really exciting to see this.

You know, Bob Mackie put

his signature style on Barbie.

[audience laughing]

Please stop staring.

Yes, it's Cher.

Okay, that's it. Nothing for us.

This Cher thing

is out of control.

How the Cher and

I can't say for certain,

but, I mean,

I'm really glad it did.

I think it was such a big moment

in pop culture.

[Cher] You know, dude,

it is a little weird

that you're talking to my doll.

[audience cheering

and applauding]

I don't think I need a drag

queen to define normal behavior.

But I will say this.

The look is flawless.

Whatever.

Ooh. Working the attitude.

Okay, you're good.

I've had a lot of practice.

Hey, hey, hey. You're not

that great, Mr. Sister.

All right?

I do a better Cher than you.

You think so?

Actually, it's,

"You think so-h*?"

[upbeat music playing]

[Miele] Tina Turner,

Bette Midler, Cher.

I mean, these are

the divas, right?

-Diana Ross.

-Diana Ross.

[Mackie] She does everything.

You know, it isn't just--

The dress doesn't count.

It's who wears the dress.

[woman] I want to see her

in that fabulous dress.

How do you feel in

a Bob Mackie dress?

And how do you keep

that stylish figure?

Thank you very much.

-You still got it.

-Thank you very much.

I'm not sure

that I keep that stylish figure.

[woman] This native Californian,

Mr. Bob Mackie,

honed his exquisite

sense of glamour

and theatricality

into an art form.

No one does what Mackie does

the way Mackie does it.

The secret of building

a garment to perfection

is something

I have come to long ago,

come to love and respect.

The body is transformed

under his guidance.

Every day

-But I look

-And I know

[Miele] What's the secret with

all these women, these divas?

Well, I'm very careful

about making them

what I think is good, you know,

what looks flattering,

very often.

And you see them

on their own sometimes

and you go,

"They don't do that."

You know,

just where you put things.

Kind of proportion

and placement is everything

-if you know what I mean.

-Yeah.

-[upbeat music playing]

-[audience applauding]

Oh, that feels so good to me.

I wish you could feel it too.

Listen, let me

tell you about it.

[Mackie] She was in Hollywood

and she was appearing

as a guest star by herself.

And I go, "What's going on?"

Evidently, she had left Ike

at that point.

And she was hiding out

from Ike and moving from hotel

to hotel with her assistant

and just doing

these guest shots on

and

And she was trying

to make a career for herself.

If I can't ask you

Shame, shame, shame, shame

Shame, shame, shame

Shame on you

If I can't ask you

And then she got to know me

because I started doing things

on those variety shows

and dressing her,

and she kind of goes, "Oh,

somebody actually does this."

-[upbeat music playing]

-[audience applauding]

Music making in my bed

Let the music

[Mackie] She would buy cheap

evening gowns in Paris

at these little shops.

Not great, but just something

she liked or liked the fabric.

And she'd bring it in.

She'd say, "Can we make this

look like a cave woman?"

And I said, "Sure."

And I'd put it on her

and I'd just start cutting.

"Can I go a little higher here?"

"Yeah, sure."

-"Can I pull it over here?"

-"Yeah," and I'd pin it.

And we would redo these funny,

inexpensive evening dresses

into Tina Turner outfits.

About the feeling

Let it come through

Shake your music maker

Shake it, shake it, shake it

Shake your music maker

[Mackie] And of course,

the legs. She's a little--

She has a shorter torso

and long, long legs.

And when she was younger,

the legs were long and slender

and muscular and beautiful.

And they put those

high heels on.

And she's fun. She's really fun.

And she's-- She'll, you know,

have a couple glasses of wine

and tell you

the best stories ever.

I loved watching her backstage.

She'd throw a couple of Tylenols

in and put her high heels on

and hit the stage.

It was just crazy.

[audience cheering]

Her name is... Proud...

[Mackie] The last tour she did,

I got very involved.

And we were doing the chorus

and the dancers and everybody,

and it was fun.

It was work, but it was fun.

And another thing...

[Mackie] There are certain

people in this world

that were born

to be entertainers.

They just are.

They can't help themselves.

All right.

[music erupts]

[Mackie] I mean,

they're just good.

And she's one of those,

that she just takes the audience

and runs with it.

Bette Midler's like that.

There's a lot of people

like that.

Cher kind of stands there

and says, "Well, here I am.

What do you think?"

And they love it.

But it's a whole different

attitude of performing.

[Miele]

Well, there are people that are

great fashion designers

that aren't always

good costume designers.

It isn't the same job.

You have to be theatrical

in your mind.

You have to be able

to read the script and say,

"Oh, it should be this way here,

and the color should be

this or that."

Or, "I want to explode here,"

or, "I want all of a sudden,

to do a color that the audience

just sits up and goes,

'Oh, my God.'"

You have to think

about all that.

You have to think about the mood

and the person's talent

that's wearing it.

Can they wear this?

Can they get away with it?

Are they--

Are they a personality

that can make this work?

[man] Mr. President, on this

occasion of your birthday,

Marilyn Monroe.

[applause]

[Miele]

Well, I was working for a

designer, a French designer,

called Jean Louis.

And as a kid, I always thought

that some lady

named Jean Louis

was doing these clothes.

And, you know, how did I know?

I looked at,

"Well, it's Jean Louis.

Who is this Jean Louis?

She does pretty good work."

I didn't know. I didn't know.

[Miele] How did you get

the position then?

Well, I just-- I needed a job

and I was right out of school.

And that school was what?

Chouinard Art Institute,

which was a great art school.

And a lot

of their graduates were,

are still costume designers.

And the person that usually

did his sketches for him

was sick, you know,

and not available,

and he was trying

to find somebody.

And there was a fellow

at Western Costume who,

when somebody needed some help,

he would have names that people

would come to see him.

And he sent me over

and I got the job.

And it was funny

because I had a portfolio

with a lot of good sketches,

a lot of good stuff,

but there was one sketch,

and he looked at that

and said, "Oh, yeah, get him.

He'll be good."

And I said--

My portfolio looked mostly

like fashion illustration.

It didn't look

like movie clothes.

And so I said,

"Well, I've got to gear it more

to trying to get a job

in the movies."

[man] So, what made the

Marilyn dress so famous.

Obviously, you have

Bob Mackie, Jean Louis,

Marilyn Monroe

wearing the dress.

She got fired from Fox

because she went to New York

to do that 90-second performance

in front of President Kennedy

for his early birthday

celebration

in front of the

Democratic National Convention

with 15,000 people in the room.

And she wanted to wear a dress

that no one else would wear,

that no one else could pull off.

And she walked on that stage,

when the lights went on,

the fabric of the dress

was like it was a nude color.

So it was to give--

When the lights hit

all those hand-stitched

crystals on the dress,

it gave the impression

that she was naked on stage.

Happy birthday

Mr. President

Happy birthday to you

And, like,

the crowd just went, "Wow."

That's the moment

that people are buying.

It's that moment in history.

It's the Marilyn

meets the presidential,

a time in history,

and Marilyn knew.

She risked everything: losing

her job, getting fired from Fox.

She knew that this would be

a life-changing event for her

and the world.

And she wowed.

And Bob Mackie, 21 years

of age, was the gentleman

at the beginning of that,

creating that amazing sketch.

[Miele] Were you aware about

the Marilyn Monroe dress?

Going way back, when she sang

"Happy Birthday, Mr. President"?

[Burnett] I knew about

that dress.

[Miele] Yeah, he was responsible

for sketching that originally,

for the--

Well, now that's something

I never knew.

-You never knew that?

-No.

-[Miele] Oh, my God.

-No.

Well, he's not gonna

run around telling me.

-Why not? Why?

-[laughing]

"Guess what I did."

Well, that's just not how he is.

But isn't that funny?

-I didn't know that.

-Yeah.

"Happy Birthday, Mr. President."

Oh, my God.

[Miele]

Yes, '61. Absolutely,

just the beginning. Yeah.

Yeah, it really was.

It was '61, but it had started

changing about '57 or so,

from that real

Also, a little thing

called the Kennedys

came into the White House.

And there was

Jacqueline Kennedy,

who was considered the chicest

woman in the country.

And actually, John Kennedy

was a friend of Judy Garland's.

And on his birthday,

I was at her house on a Sunday,

and she picked up the phone.

She said,

"Oh, I have to call John."

And she picked up the phone

and sang happy birthday to him

because it was his birthday.

You were at the house?

I was at the house,

because on Sunday nights,

her show was on.

[laughing]

And sang

San Francisco,

I'm going home again

[applause]

I got a job

on

as an assistant

costume designer.

How did you get that job?

Well, I had a very good friend,

a "very" good friend,

who got the job.

But this was somebody that was

a good designer, Ray Aghayan,

but he didn't draw.

And so I was his assistant.

And I was in charge of,

usually, the chorus

and maybe guest stars

and things.

And he would do Judy.

But then I would work with him

with the sketches and stuff.

And she had

a very difficult little figure.

She was 4' 11."

Really short girl.

[applause]

She was 42,

and she'd lived pretty hard.

She could get it all together.

Days may be cloudy or sunny

We're in

Or we're out of the money

And I would say,

"Oh, don't put that on her.

That's not good on her,"

you know,

because there was a lot to do.

You start on Monday and you

finish-- You sh**t it on Friday,

and, boy, it better be good.

The best is yet to come

Come the day you're mine

Well, it was just--

It would be Ray and me

and a couple of people

from the show, maybe.

They would change, you know.

And sometimes

she'd just be by herself

and want somebody to watch with.

[Miele] Oh, my God, really?

Well, yeah, you know, everybody

can't be everywhere every week.

And it was--

It was kind of sad in a way

because she didn't have a lot

of close friends that I knew of.

We got each other

We're two lost sheep

[Miele] Hanging out

at Judy Garland's house,

-you're having a c*ck...

-Well, yeah.

...watching the show.

At 23, I was kind of like,

"Oh, good." You know.

But then I got very comfortable

because I was there quite often.

[man] So Bob Mackie was--

We know the gowns,

we know the dresses,

we know the couturier,

but he was much more than that.

And when Judy Garland

met Bob Mackie, violins played.

It just went into a love affair

like you'd never seen.

Judy was absolutely

mesmerized by Bob Mackie.

And so then Bob would

come in with the sketches.

Bob Mackie was not only a great

designer and a great artist,

but he was also the

world's greatest salesman.

He would walk in,

he could sell Judy on anything.

[Miele]

[Schlatter] Well,

you didn't temper Judy.

You survived Judy.

Judy was always kind of testing

you a little bit, you know?

And Bob Mackie

would survive any test.

[applause]

See, those were special people.

We don't have

those people anymore.

We have singers

and we have dancers

and we have actresses

and so forth.

But we don't have

the kind of event

that Cher was and that Judy was,

and Carol Burnett too.

He made them feel special.

He made them confident.

He made them secure.

And so when they put on

a Bob Mackie gown,

they all of a sudden

felt they were the part.

[Miele] So, what was the nature

of Bob and Ray's relationship?

Did you witness them

together at all?

Ray Aghayan and Bob Mackie

were like a symphony.

I mean, they never really

had to say that much.

They just understood each other.

Ray was very grand.

He came from Iran,

and his mother

was a big deal in Iran.

She was a couturier

and dressed all the royalty

and whatever at the time.

And then he was very continental

and foreign, and smoked.

You know, he had everything

but a fez on his head.

[McFate] The first time

I ever met Ray,

he called me in New York

about 25 years ago,

and I answered the phone

and he said, "Joseph,

this is Raymond Aghayan.

I'm Bob's partner."

-Yes, that sounds like him.

-Well, but it made it clear

that it was

more than business partner.

[Mackie] Well, we--

Lulu and I had just--

We adored each other

and we were best friends,

but we split up as man and wife

because she was auditioning

and going off to New York

and doing stuff,

and I was still in school.

And I quit school and went out

for auditions for...

To be a costume

designer assistant.

And Lulu-- Lulu remarried.

She had other husbands.

She had a husband,

who was an agent.

I didn't like him very much,

but that was all right.

I didn't have to like him.

She didn't stay married

to him for very long.

Robin didn't like him either.

So it was one of those.

And then one time,

the second husband,

he says,

"Well, what is this guy that--?

What does he do?"

"Well, he's a costume designer."

"Well, he must be g*y."

That's the first thing you get.

-[McFate] They just assume that.

-And I said--

-That's right.

-And I went to myself,

I said, "Well, yeah,

he's right. And--

[Miele] Did Robin

have questions?

Because that was

an impressionable age.

Well, yes, it was.

And he-- I was very upset

when I decided

that I wasn't being completely

honest with her or with him,

and that I didn't know

what to do.

But I said, "I can't--"

I see these people in Hollywood

who have a wife and a boyfriend.

I said, "I can't--

I can't go out of town

on a job and do things,

and then come back home

and pretend not to."

That just seemed so wrong to me,

and the whole thing was wrong.

And it was one of the hardest

things I ever went through,

was telling her this.

If I hated

or couldn't stand her,

that would be different,

you know, a little bit,

I suppose, but...

-But I--

-You had guilt because you--

I had big guilt, and I cried.

And I was,

"Oh, what am I going to do now?"

It was-- It's still hard

when I think about it.

Gonna do a new show,

Clever title, huh?

So I called Ray Aghayan.

And he said, "Hello,

how are you, darling?"

I said, "I'm marvelous.

How are you?"

He said, "I'm okay."

I said, "I want you

to do my new show."

He says, "I can't."

I said, "But I love you."

And he said, "I love you too,

darling, but I'm up to my a*s

in Judy Garland."

She was doing a show.

So he says,

"But you know that that name,

Bob Mackie."

And he said, "Bob Mackie

is my best friend in the world,

and he's working at Paramount

sketching for Edith Head."

So I said, "Okay, I'll see him."

There's a knock at the door.

A little face says,

"Ms. Gaynor?"

I said, "Yes?"

I've got this little boy,

he's wanting me

to sign his autograph.

I said, "Yes, come in."

He said,

"My name is Bob Mackie."

I said, "For god's sake, your

voice hasn't even changed yet."

[Miele] Did you get

the impression this boyish man

who you met originally had

the endurance and the ability

to pull this off?

What happened was,

we had seen Mitzi Gaynor.

[upbeat music playing]

[applause]

So we thought, "Can we do--?"

My gosh, and it was Bob Mackie.

Bob Mackie, Bob Mackie. Wow.

And the versatility

was so impressive.

So we got in touch

with him, bing-bong,

and I opened the door,

and there was this child.

Beautiful blond Adonis.

He looked like

he was a newspaper boy.

Like, you know-- He looked like

he was 12. And I said, "Yes?"

He said, "Hi, I'm Bob Mackie."

And he came in

and we talked and everything,

and he was so charming.

-And I never had any doubt.

-Really?

And we hired him

right on the spot.

And I think he was

26 or 27 at the time,

but he looked like

he was about 18.

-Yeah.

-He still does.

[big band music playing]

[Burnett] A lot of people think

he just did what I wore,

but he designed for everybody.

Every bit of costuming

that you saw on our show

that the dancers,

the singers, the guest stars,

the rep company,

we all were dressed by Bob.

So you do the math.

We did 276 shows,

something like that.

So in 11 years, he designed

17,000 costumes.

You, sir, are no gentleman.

And you, Ms. O'Hara,

are no lady.

[gasps]

Starlett, I love you.

You and I are cut out of

the same rotten, dirty cloth.

[Burnett]

That will go in the time capsule

as one of

the longest laughs ever.

And that was Bob's idea.

Look, Ms. Starlett, isn't that

Captain Butler's carriage now?

Oh, Lord, what am I going to do?

Well, I've got an idea.

When he comes in, why don't you

hide behind the drapes?

[laughter]

Sissy, help me take these down.

Well, what are you

doing that for?

Never you mind.

Now, listen, when he gets here,

you just keep him busy.

-You understand?

-Yes ma'am.

Because I got me

a dress to make.

Yes, ma'am.

[Burnett] And the sketch itself

is very funny.

I mean, all the way through,

it was funny.

And so when it came

to her putting the curtains

into a dress, making

the curtains into a dress,

the writers wrote that I would

just come down the stairs

with them hanging,

just like that.

And Bob thought,

"This sketch is very funny,

so we gotta--

That's not that funny."

And then he thought, he said,

"Well, maybe he'll

redo the real dress."

No, everybody's seen that.

And then he came up

with the curtain-rod idea.

And I remember I went into

costume fitting that week,

and he said, "I have an idea

for the curtain dress."

And I went into the room

and there it was, you know.

I fell on the floor,

I was laughing so hard.

I said, "This is going to be

one of the greatest sight gags

in the history of television."

You knew that?

I knew it right from the get-go.

I mean, yeah.

[laughter]

And it was hard for me,

walking down the stairs,

to keep a straight face--

And I'm looking at Harvey, and

he's trying to keep it together.

And I had to bite the inside

of my cheek because--

To keep myself from breaking up

with the reaction.

And I went like this. [mumbling]

What--? What brings you to Tara?

You, you vixen, you.

Starlett, I love you.

That-- That gown is gorgeous.

Thank you,

I saw it in the window

and I just couldn't resist it.

[laughter and applause]

-How did it feel when it was on?

-It was heavy.

It was heavy.

But anything for a laugh.

[Miele] I'll say.

For so many years, people are

still laughing about that dress.

And the original one

is in the Smithsonian.

Bob would say "They're gonna

put that on my tombstone."

You know, that,

and maybe Cher's Mohawk.

Actually, the man that

designed

did a drawing for me

when I did the curtain-rod

dress on

And he sent me a little drawing

of me racing with Edith Head

for the finish line.

[inspirational music playing]

[Cher] But, you know, he had

a different relationship

with all of us.

I think mine is the deepest,

goes the deepest.

And as the time went by

and we spent so much time

together over all those years,

and he would have to--

He would have to think up

one thing after another.

[dance music playing]

[Cher] And I can

show you outfits, and you go,

how did he go from that

to this and then to this?

And how did he just keep on

going for all those years?

It's, what, 50-something years.

I didn't know enough

to know what he would become,

but I knew enough

to know who he was.

[Miele] So looking back,

did you ever feel

the pressure of expectation

of constantly reinventing

yourself with Bob

-over the years?

-No.

I never felt pressure

to do anything.

-[chuckles]

-You have to know me.

[Miele] And you?

How do you feel about fame?

It's the work that counts,

you know, if you do good work.

-It'll come.

-Yeah, well--

Kind of like a byproduct.

Well, yeah, but sometimes,

you do really good work

and nobody pays

any attention to it because,

for whatever reason, who knows?

And then other times, they do.

But it's important to do good

work and to be serious about it.

A lot of people think

being a costume designer

is kind of flamboyant and silly

and whatever, whatever.

You know, and it's not serious.

It's very serious

if you dress somebody up

and they go out there

and nothing works,

and it doesn't help them.

That's serious to you?

Yeah, and, well, it is serious.

And if you're doing comedy

and you don't get any laughs,

forget it. [chuckles]

It's-- It's over.

[crowd clamoring and screaming]

[Mackie] Don't expect

any screams for me, kids.

[screaming]

-[McFate] Keep going.

-Keep going.

-Keep going.

-Bob?

-Let's go.

-Bob.

[Hamilton]

He seems a little nervous.

[Miele] Crazy.

[clamoring and screaming]

[electronic music playing]

[muffled music playing inside]

["Waterloo" playing]

It was fun to see Bob

in his element,

because when we visit,

it's always at his house.

So we go to things,

or here at the house.

I did want to k*ll Joe, though,

because I asked him

what I should wear.

And he said, "Just wear--

Just wear what you always wear.

You're fine, just whatever."

And when the guy behind me

found out

I was Bob Mackie's

granddaughter,

he said to me,

"Who are you wearing?"

And I'm like,

"Oh, don't ask me that

because it was a Target dress."

Well, Target's good.

I know, but the guy thought

she should have been there

-in some designer--

-No, but, I mean, you're--

-[Townsend] It was funny.

-But it was fun.

[Townsend]

Yeah, we had a great time.

Right now, this is special.

This artist is a

Grammy-winning singer,

an Oscar-winning actress,

an Emmy-winning TV star,

and a fashion icon.

She's one of the biggest-selling

singers of all time.

America, make some noise

for Cher.

[cheering and applause]

My, my

At Waterloo

Napoleon did surrender

Oh, yeah

And I have met my destiny

In quite a similar way

The history book

On the shelf

Is always repeating itself

Waterloo

If I could turn back time

If I could find a way

I'd take back those words

That hurt you

[Miele] You knew

I wasn't gonna let

this film end without talking

about that moment on the ship.

I had an idea,

and it went too far.

But...

I don't know.

It worked for the song.

It was a little bit--

It was a little bit too much.

Words are like weapons

They wound sometimes

[Cher] That's the one he said,

"Don't ever tell anybody

that I made this for you."

And he's right. It was terrible.

Well, with this-- On the big

ship with the sailors,

she got nervous about that one.

That was really a vulgar,

horrible outfit.

If I could turn back time

If I could find a way

I'd take back all...

When I was on the ship

with the sailors, they--

I have to tell you,

they kept calling me ma'am,

so I didn't feel so bad.

[McFate] Bob

denied that he did it

for many years because...

Well, let him tell you

about that-- Why that's--

[Miele] Well, what's your take?

-You didn't like it?

-It's like a seat belt.

It's like two strips of a

seat belt and a leather jacket.

And it was a boat

with thousands of sailors.

Come on.

My world was shattered

I was torn apart

Like someone took a knife

And drove it deep in my heart

[Miele] Joe described that

as a couple of seat belts.

[sighs]

There were all kinds

of descriptions for that one.

Darling, then and there

Too strong to tell you

I was sorry

Too proud to tell you

I was wrong

I know that I was blind

And darling

If I could turn back time

If I could find a way

(MUSIC FADES