14x13 - 1970 International Scout

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The 1970 International Harvester
Scout 800A is a trailblazing early SUV.

Welcome to the 1970s.

Built for work on the
farm, its rugged 103

horsepower inline-four delivers 176
foot-pounds of torque along with tons of fun.

It's really simple,
it's basic, it's honest.

Collectors are snapping up retro SUVs like
crazy and this little Scout could be a big

opportunity for me and
Ant, but it's in a rough shape.

It sounds like a tractor.

With its iffy four-wheel
drive, shoddy steering

and hopeless interior,
Ant will need to perform

some real magic to bring this
Scout back to its prior glory.

Go, go, go, go, go, go, go,
come on, we're gonna do it!

We're here in Phoenix, on our way to go
and see an International Harvester Scout.

These vehicles were introduced
in 1961 originally as a farm vehicle.

This Harvester is from


model, considered to be the
finest of the models of Scouts.

People love it because it's smaller and has
a more rounded shape than the later models.

Nowadays, the trend for 4x4s in the
collector car market has gone crazy.

Over the last few years,
people went chasing

Toyota FJs, then people
latched on to the full Bronco.

The next little truck in
line, believe it or not, is that

little Scout, and that's why
timing with this trend is vital.

It belongs to a firefighter,
his name is Nathan,

and now he's decided
it's time to get rid of it.

And guess what?

Nathan wants $8,500, that's around £6,000.

And in the sweet spot of today's
market, that's exactly the right price.

Now, the vehicle he
tells me is rust-free,

and even though we're
here in Phoenix, where

it's really dry, when you dig
down into those recesses and make

sure that there's no rot, this
could be a good little truck.

Hey, Nathan.

Hey, Mike.

How you doing?

How are you?

Perfect timing.

Yeah.

Nice to meet you.

And you, sir.

Yeah, really nice to meet you.

Thank you for having me
out to come and see this.

So, how long you had it?

A couple months.

I was tinkering with it a little bit, and
then I picked up that Firebird also, and

my wife's rules, I can only keep
one, so the Scout's got to go.

It's good for me.

A rule I have to live by.

Can I open up the back?

Absolutely.

You know, even in these
dry states, can rust a little bit.

Yeah.

Sort of drops down to there, and
then it falls, that's nice and refined.

Yeah, that's the radio
right there, that's for free.

It's got a bench seat as well.

It's got all three of the
original seats, and from what

I can tell, it looks like
the original interior fabric.

Trust me, Nathan, that's not a selling
feature, it's going to have to be replaced.

Yeah.

Nice and solid, no rust at all.

The bottom of the door.

This traveler top has
got sliding rear glass,

and that was only available
on the military option.

Yep, I did a little research
on the truck, and come

to find out the US Army
ordered this back in 1970.

That's great news.

The military would have really
looked after it in its early years.

Let's have a good look underneath.

Sure.

Wow.

There's a bit of a leak coming
from that front transfer box as well.

Yeah, it leaks a little bit.

Small leak, can mean bigger problems later.

Right then, Nate, should
we have a look underneath?

Absolutely.

Wow, look how dirty that is.

That must be 40 year old dirt on there, it
doesn't look like it's ever been cleaned.

All original, even the dirt.

Which can actually
prevent the truck from

rusting, as the years of grime
have protected the engine bay.

So tell me, does the motor run okay?

Yeah.

Can I take it for a test drive?

Absolutely.

Welcome to the 1970s.

A little four banger engine, got
some strength, got really good power.

It's so good.

First impressions are the
steering is all over the place.

Honestly, we're going to have to
do something with the steering box.

Secondly, we're going to have to think
about what we do with the outside of it,

because it is a bit sad for itself.

Thirdly, there's a bit
of play in the driveline.

I imagine it's related to the
leak, also in the transfer case.

But the good news is, I'm
driving down a very bumpy road.

It's soaking up, the ruts and the bumps.

I've got my arm out the window.

This is one of those vehicles
you don't need to be in any rush.

You sit back, relax, cruise.

And it feels pretty good.

The gauges are all working.

Let's try these vacuum
operated windshield wipers.

I've got one working on that side.

That's good.

And there's this side.

Oh dear.

I mean this one's seen better days.

It's really simple.

It's basic.

It's honest.

And I absolutely love it.

Yes, it may seem like I'm in a noisy,
dirty, simplistic, bouncy old farm truck.

And that's exactly what I am in.

But there's something so charming
about it, and I completely get it.

I understand why now
there's this huge market for it.

My people are scrambling
to get to the scout.

And if we can get it right, we're well
on our way to having fun and profit.

Love it, love it, love it.

So what did you think?

Well, love it.

Yeah?

Yeah, love it.

I mean, on the road, it
feels like 1970, I must admit.

Steering boxes all over the
place, and that's got to be fixed.

But you know what?

I set out to find a scout that was a
rust-free example, that had good provenance,

had the right amount of
work needed doing to it.

And I think most definitely
this is the one I really like it.

I like it so much, I'm not even
going to be that hard with you.

How much was it?



I'll offer you 8 grand.

I can do 8,000.

You can?

Yeah.

I can do 8.

Super.

Well done.

I've just bought myself
an International Scout.

That was a great deal.

Thank you very much.

Well, there you go.

$8,000.

That's about 6,000 pounds buys
me a 1970 International Scout.

Yes, I know, right?

It's tatty.

I don't care.

I know that this is a
cracking little vehicle.

Right, time to get it back to the big boy.

See what he thinks.

Hey!

I could hear that from down there.

I bet you could.

It sounds like a tractor.

I know it may sound like a tractor.

It might even look a bit like
a tractor, but it's anything but.

This is an International Scout.

This is a cool vehicle.

You're telling me Mike
Brewer bought a yellow car?

I know, another yellow one.

They seem to be following me around.

Good news is this
isn't the original colour.

Which means we can change it again.

It's nice and solid.

It was cheap.

How much was it?

Come on then.

$8,000.

You paid 8 grand for this?

That's cheap, let me tell you.

The market for these is
booming at the moment,

but there's a little bit
of work we need to do.

Right.

And the all-wheel drive works?

Well, all-wheel drive-ish.

That means no then.

There's a little bit of
play in the transfer box.

It's nothing.

It'd be really simple.

Here we go.

Ready?

Ta-da!

It's been parked in a lake.

It's just nearly 50-year-old dirt.

But really have a second look.

It's solid.

No rust, no holes.

Everything's here.

Everything works.

This steering's strange, isn't it?

It's really odd.

I can put half a turn in
on the steering wheel

and nothing's happening
down at the front wheel.

So you need to fix the steering.

It's perfectly unsafe.

I know it sounds like a lot
of work, but it's not that bad.

Let me show you the
inside, and this will give

you an idea to this
vehicle's previous pass.

Oh, right.

So it's a military vehicle.

So does all of this work?

Some of it.

What doesn't work?

What doesn't work really
well at all are the wipers.

Believe it or not, they're vacuum wipers.

Why they weren't electronic, I don't know.

Because if you're going to go off-roading,
you're going to go 4x4 in, you're going

to get mud and dirt
splattered against the screen,

you want to be able
to clean them instantly

and not have something that
may work or may not work.

So we need to fix those.

Right, so hang on a second.

Are we restoring a beautiful
road-going car or an off-road car?

Both.

Yeah, that's what we're doing.

You've got to remember
this is an all-purpose vehicle.

Let me show you this feature.

Ready?

It's got a split tailgate,
and it works like this.

That top bit comes up.

There you go.

I mean, you can sit on the back,
or you can have a little bit of fun.

Right.

First thing you said about
this vehicle was it was simple.

It is quite simple.

We're going to do a colour change, we're
going to fix the steering, we're going

to do the all-wheel
drive system, we're going

to get that all-wheel driving again, tidy
up the seats, and then the vacuum wipers.

That's about it.

Think about it.

If we get it right, me and
you, at the end of this,

we can capture a market
that's booming at the moment.

Shall we get it in the workshop?

Come on, let's get it in.

I love 4x4s.

There's this kind of rugged go-anywhere
way about them, and in recent years, some

of them have seen
less as dirty off-roaders,

and they're now desirable
classics in their own right.

And it's easy to see why there's
this kind of modest, low-key charm.

Now, Mike tells me that
there's a problem with the

all-wheel drive system, and
that's where I'm going to start.

The transfer case on
this Scout has issues,

which could cause the whole
four-wheel drive system to fail.

To fix the problem, I'm going to have to
take the transfer case off and rebuild it.

To remove the transfer case, I
need to detach the prop shaft.

I'm tackling the rear one first.

After removing the four
bolts on the universal

joint, I can slip a pry
bar between the shaft

and the yoke to get them apart,
then slide the prop shaft free.

I'm repeating the process for the
front, and I'm removing the speedo cable.

There is no doubt that rebuilding
a transfer case can be intimidating.

It is an awful lot of work.

It's high in labour, but it's low in costs.

And it's the ability
to drive with all four

wheels that is the
foundation of this vehicle.

And because of that,
sometimes you've just got

to roll up your sleeves
and crack on with it.

We've taken on a 1970
International Harvester Scout.

This is a cool vehicle.

Our goal is to turn this old military
truck into a hero, both on and off-road.

And I've got them busy fixing a problem
that threatens the four-wheel drive.

I want to remove just the transfer case,
which is a series of bolts around the edge.

And the top ones are going
to be really tricky to get to.

However, the
transmission tunnel panel is

removable, so I can
tackle them from the top.

I'm using an impact driver to loosen the
Scout's removable transmission tunnel,

which cleverly gave its
military and farm users

access to the driveline
whilst it's in the field.

Taking the cover off
reveals the top of the

transfer case and allows
me to get a half-inch

combination wrench
on the two bolts that are

near impossible to
reach from underneath.

Let's drain the oil.

Now that all the mounting bolts are
removed, the transfer case simply pops free.

Well, with a bit of gentle
persuasion from a pry bar.

Oh, this is heavy.

Now, this is the Dana


it's quite probably the
most important part.

of our vehicle's drivetrain. And it's
certainly this that makes it four by four,

or at least it's this half. And in basic
principles, the engine produces power.

Nice little four-pot.

That power is then driven
via a gearbox into a prop shaft.

The prop shaft hits
the differential, and then

there's a rear axle that
drives the rear wheels.

And it would have a
single manual gear stick

here. A transfer case
to the side of the gearbox

allows the driver to direct some of that
power via a prop shaft to the front axle,

driving the front wheels and effectively
making our vehicle four by four.

There is one more thing. If you want
to operate any of the four-wheel drive,

you've got to stop the
vehicle, get out, lock

the front hubs. That
allows the power to then

actually turn the wheels before you can go
anywhere. Unfortunately, there's a problem

with this transfer case.
And while it's out of

the car, now is the
perfect time to rebuild it.

I need to get the rear
output shaft housing off,

and an impact g*n makes short
work of the five bolts that hold it on.

Four more bolts free
the shaft from the flange,

and a single nut
releases the flange itself.

I'm extremely careful
when prying these

surfaces apart. Any
damage would cause a leak

later, and all this work
would be for nothing.

Pulling the rear output
shaft gives me a look

inside the case, and
there's no obvious signs

of damage. I'm repeating
the process on the

output shaft. The shift linkage
and rails come apart easily.

I'm removing the bearing retainer, along
with the 10 bolts that secure the cover.

Now that the transfer case is open, you can
clearly see how the gearing works. And the.

best way to think about
it is in three sections.

Section one here,
this is the two-wheel

drive. This drives the rear wheels only.
Section two, that takes the power from the

two-wheel drive and
gives it to the front

wheels. Now looking
inside, these gears actually

don't look too bad. It's quite a bit of
play in the bearings, probably because of

the looseness that Mike told me about.
So I'm going to replace them.

First, I'll use a hydraulic
press to push out the old ones.

It creates sufficient force without
damaging the intermediate shaft.

Now I can remove the
main drive gear, along with

the shift fork and
other gears, all of which

appear to be in really
good condition. I'll be

able to clean and reuse
some of these parts.

And that's it, completely stripped down.
Now before I put this back together,

I want to give it all a really good clean.

Now Mike's managed
to get hold of a rebuild

kit. It cost $175, about
£130, and that rebuild

kit, with all the restored parts, is enough
to make the transfer case work again.

I'm going to start with this.

The main drive gear
and shift fork go back in

first, then I can fit the
new seal onto the housing.

I want to avoid leaks,
so applying some sealing

compound will ensure
the parts bond tightly for

the next years. For
the next steps, I'm fitting

the output shaft and
housing, then securing

the housing with five
bolts. I'm attaching the

flange with a washer
and nut, then brushing.

the intermediate washer
with a load of graphite

grease to help hold
the parts together.

Now comes the really
fiddly bit. I've got to

fit 48 of these tiny
little needle bearings

inside this small space.
The problem is that

they're floating and
they don't actually get

locked in place until the
intermediate shaft drops

in. Now I have a little
tip, petroleum jelly.

Use this stuff really liberally, like glue.
Loads of it on there.

It's about a six hour job
to rebuild the transfer case,

but the good news is that you can
accomplish it without any special tools.

Time to move on to
the front output. The

slider and high speed
gears are held in place

by the output shaft.
A washer, C-clip and bearing go on next.

Followed by the shift rails and flange.

The bearing cover bolts back
on the same way it came off.

Success! The transfer case's internals are
working beautifully. This brand new cover

gasket is just a three dollar part,
but it seals the oil within the gearbox.

It's cut from rubber cork compound,

designed to withstand harsh environments
and deliver years of leak free operation.

Replacing the drain plug is
the final step of this rebuild.

Once I bolt the transfer
case back on the transmission,

I can reattach the prop shafts
exactly the same way they came apart.

Job done!

The steering on this
car is dangerous. All of

this is going to transform
it for the new owner.

We've taken on a 1970 Scout 800A
in hopes of creating the perfect on

and off road vehicle for today's
white hot vintage SUV market.

I've rebuilt the transfer case
to shore up the four-wheel drive

and now it's time to deal with the
truck's overall driving experience.

Back in the day the Scout
never came with power

steering and somewhere
along the lifespan of

this car someone's gone and added it
and quite frankly it's a massive bodge.

I'm gonna have to take it out.

Replacing the Scout's
vague and unpredictable

steering will make it both safer
and more enjoyable to drive.

Loosening the fittings
releases the fluid in the system.

My advice? Secure
the fittings with a rubber

glove and a zip tie to
catch any excess fluid.

Now I'm getting rid of
the old box by unbolting

it from the steering shaft
and the truck's frame.

Now that the Scout's
up on the lift I'm pulling

the cotter pin and
removing the old center link.

I've had to get creative to fix the
power steering on this car using a load of

alternative bits so I've got myself a
steering box. This is from a later Scout too.

Stronger tie rods, universal
joints and loads of other parts.

Now all of this stuff
is expensive it adds up

to around two thousand
dollars that's fourteen

hundred pounds plus
it's not exactly bolt-on.

I'm gonna have to do
a load of modifications

to make it work but it
is going to be worth it.

Before I can install the
new steering box I need

to beef up the Scout's
frame with extra metal

to create a solid anchor
point. I'm measuring a

cardboard template tracing
onto quarter inch steel.

And fabricating two reinforcing plates.

And welding them to the frame.

Now I'm drilling the mounting
holes through the truck's frame.

I'm giving the newly
reinforced frame sections a

coat of primer and paint
for extra rust protection.

The steering pump attaches with three
brand new half inch bolts washers and nuts.

The steering wheel attaches
to the pump via a universal joint.

The new center link bolts in
exactly as the old one came out.

It takes an incredible amount of force
to turn the wheels. A turn at the steering

box is put into this. This is called a
pitman arm and if you compare it to the

one that was on the car
before you can clearly

see the difference. This
one takes those forces

direct. It's strong, it's
heavy and it's clearly

made for purpose. This
needs to be condemned.

The new pitman arm
attaches to the steering pump.

And connects the new
center link via the tie rod.

Each nut and bolt in
the system is secured

with cotter pins to
ensure a safe and positive

connection. Right, moment of truth. Left
lock, right lock. This feels fantastic.

What a difference.
Mike is going to love this

and that's because
this new steering is way

more efficient but more
importantly than that

it's actually made the
whole car safer. Spot on.

Now one thing Ant and
I aren't crazy about with

the Scout is the color.
That yellow is clearly no

good. A nice green would
be a better way to go.

I'd like to see a few
different paint samples

laid side by side and hopefully by the end
of the day I can get them back to the shop

and see what Ant
thinks. Pat. Hi Mike. Good

to see you. Good to
see you. How's business?

Good, just busy. Me
and Ant have now decided

we're definitely going
to go green with the

military past. Can you help? I've got
some great samples right over here.

Nice. So you want to
go in the green family?

Yeah. Then something
right in here would be good.

Look at that one.
Okay that's good. Just

looking for something
a little bit more sedate.

Something like that.
That's quite nice isn't

it? Yeah that is that
is very nice color.

Can we see it actually
laid down on some

metal? Absolutely
bring it on back let's go.

This paint color
contains nine different

pigments which are
weighted out individually

according to a computer formula. You have
to be really accurate don't you? Right it's

down to a tenth of a
gram. Back in the 70s

scouts were only
offered in a narrow palette

of muted colors but thanks to modern
technology and Pat's know-how we now have

a virtually unlimited
color palette for which

to choose from. Our
next color is 271 and that's

not on the bank that's
a little bit of a trick

because it's a special
color. When the sun hits

the sun will make this
actually sparkle brighter

and lighten the side
cast as well. So we should

call this then the little
piece of magic? Yes.

Oh hello. There you go.
Perfect. Ah look at that

you can see it all
coming together that's

fantastic. I've told
Pat about the retro look

that we're going for
and he's mixed two other

shades of green in
addition to the one I picked

out. So I went ahead
and set up the three

samples here so we can
spray these out the three

different colors and
then you can get an idea

of which one you really
like. Okay so these are

contoured plastic molds
that once you lay the

paint down you can
see what it's going to look

like in all angles. Exactly and you can
see all the nooks and crannies. Perfect.

This polyurethane
paint is faster drying

shinier and more durable
than what was available

when the scout was
built. Spraying these forms

will prevent any nasty
surprises when the color

is actually laid down on
the scout by giving us a

good idea of how the
finished paint job will look.

All right well listen what I'll do
is I'll leave you to clear coat them

get them dried I'll pick them up tomorrow
get them over to end see what he thinks.

Sounds good. Thanks Pat.
Thank you Mike my pleasure.

We're looking to grab
a piece of the sizzling

vintage SUV market
with a 1970 international

harvester scout and is
well on his way to having

the mechanic sorted
including the 40 wipers

but in order to fetch
top dollar this truck's

going to need a makeover
on the outside as well.

How you doing sunshine?
Yo. Listen put the tools

down for a sec just step
outside let me show you

these. Now we spoke
about changing the color

of the little scout I've
got to have some color

swatches done the
first one this is more like

a nod to the original
it's kind of a nice

color I like it. Yeah
I like this. Good and

then I went the other
way with this gray green

and the reason I've done
that. Nope. You don't even

want to know do you?
Nope. Okay and then I went

for a heritage green.
That is our green. I'm glad

you said that because
I really like that color

as well if we can put
that on the car and do

a nice cream roof
offset the interior nice set

of wheels we're going
to move this car into

a different marketplace.
Perfect put those in

the bin. Right I think you got that then
have you? I'll keep these as jelly molds.

The mechanics behind the
vacuum wipers is actually

pretty clever take some
of the natural vacuum

created by the engine
when it's running and use

it to move the wiper
blades the problem is is

that even when this car
was new the technology

was really old and
unreliable what I'm going to

do is I'm going to swap
out the old for the new

and to get to it I need
to take off this dash.

Popping the dash pad
off reveals eight Phillips

screws that secure
the top of the panel.

I'm removing four more screws to
get the instrument panel out of the way

and I'm doing the four dashboard
bolts to reach the wiper mechanism.

That's as far as I'm going to go with the
strip down because these are the vacuum

wiper motors these are the bits that I want
to remove. Pulling the wiper arms gives me

access to the hardware that holds them on.
Removing the hardware is easy with a wrench

hammer and center punch then
the old wiper motor slides right out.

Next I'm removing the wiper switches
and pulling out the vacuum hoses.

Now that the wiper
system's out it's easier

to see exactly how it
works and it's made up

of two wiper motors
then there's two switches

here now to simulate
the vacuum I'm using a

pneumatic brake bleeder
so now the engine's

running it's building up
that vacuum pressure

it's now within the
system so if I turn it on

that's one okay so that
one doesn't work anyway

if the engine's on
and it's under limited

load it gives the system
really good pressure

if I start to accelerate
and if I do it nice

and slowly opening up
the throttle yes the car.

goes a little bit faster
but unfortunately the

wiper now slows down
because the pressure's

dropping if however I want to just floor it
stick the accelerator bang onto the ground.

pressure's now lost
completely the wipers don't

work I love this system
because of its genius

simplicity and on paper
it should work but in

reality it's heavily
flawed so out with the old

and in with the new now Mike could have got
and got a second-hand system from a 1972 or

newer scout but he didn't he opted for
this a more modern up-to-date system.

good news about this system is it
runs off a single motor and in the c*ck

there's a single switch plus it just bolts
straight in with very little modifications.

I'm securing the hardware
with a single nut on the outside.

one more on the inside and
fastening the linkage with the snap clip.

then connecting the new wiring harness.

I'm installing the switch in the factory
position with the original knob to maintain

the period look inside it will only become
obvious that this scout has modern electric

wipers when they're turned on after
fitting new stainless steel wiper arms

are nearly ready to
test the system now in

theory that should be it
so all I need to do now.

is reinstate the battery
give our wiper some

power and I'm deliberately
going to leave the

dashboard open and
that's because I just want

to double check that
nothing fouls ignition on.

look at that they work
perfectly and as an off-road

vehicle this is really
going to transform the new

owner's experience
now I want to focus on the

seats because I want
the interior to be just

as good as the outside
I fixed the four-wheel

drive replaced the power
steering and the wipers

on our scout pat has
spent the last couple of

days working on the
custom paint job and now

the scout is finally
back at the workshop

look at her it's almost
like it's a completely

different truck an updated
version of the classic

military look moves this
scout into a very modern

market from a paint perspective we're there
mechanically we're there but now I want to

focus on the seats because I want the
interior to be just as good as the outside.

Mike's managed to get
hold of some off-the-shelf

seat covers the bad news is because they've
all traveled in the post they're pretty

creased but I've got
a little bit of a cheat.

if I lay these out in the
sun the heat is going

to smooth them out while
the sun works its magic

on the new seat covers
I'm heading back inside

to work on the frames
I'm going to take the old

seat covers off starting
by removing the frames

first step is to remove
the eight Phillips

screws that connect the
cushions to the frames

right now I'm not
going to be too precious

with these old seat covers
because frankly I don't

want to keep them so I'm
just going to take a knife.

foam padding cushions
the seats I'm getting

rid of the old stuff to
make way for the new

these are just held in by little
staples come out quite easily.

now this is old school they use this kind
of batting here to protect the Springs from

not piercing the foam
and then going through

the leather the batting
also makes the Springs

work in unison as the
seat is compressed.

before reupholstering
the seats I first need

to give the metal frames
a good clean to remove

the surface rust then a coat of primer
and paint to prevent further corrosion

while the paint dries
I'm cracking on with the

rest of the job got
myself a nice new piece of

foam and what I'm
going to do is use the old

seat base as a template
and I want to cut two

I want to cut one that's
exactly the right size.

and then one that's
slightly over so I've got

enough material to
drag it around the edges.

polyurethane foam technology has come a
long way since the scout was made in 1970

even under heavy use
this modern padding will

retain its firmness
shape and pliability better

than the original the
good thing about foam is

it's quite soft so just
a really good pair of

scissors I'm using a pair of
upholsterers shears nice and sharp.

I'm gluing the two pieces of foam together
with automotive adhesive in a spray g*n.

you can buy off the
shelf padding but cutting

and assembling myself
will save a few bucks.

both sides of the foam get a good
coat of glue along with the batting.

now the idea of the black
lines is I get it all to line up.

then I'm going to apply
a load more extra glue

around the edge to make
sure it all sticks when

I fold it that's really good now it's glued
I'm going to hold it in place even further

using these special
pair of pliers and that's

called a hog ring simply Pierce it through
the foam and clip it onto the Springs and

then that is going
nowhere hog ring fasteners.

have been used in the
upholstery industry for decades.

I'm attaching them around
the base of the whole seat.

that looks really tidy I'm gonna see
how the seat covers are doing in the sun.

what a difference the sun makes
it's got rid of all the packaging marks.

and the rest of them will
come out when I really

stretch it over so I'm
gonna turn it inside out.

there's no alternative other
than a bit of brute force.

now if I simply flip it well
I've kept the wooden base.

and before it had staples in
it and it's really easy because.

I can refit it using a simple staple g*n
I want to start in the middle at the front.

pull it over nice and tight make sure
that seam matches up with the base.

and then I'm fixing
the staples parallel to

the edge so the material
doesn't rip through.

right look at that these new seat
covers will transform the interior

for a minimal outlay of cash
I'm really happy with that.

go go go go go go go
come on we're gonna do it.

I've refinished our


frames recovered the
seats and installed them.

I'm now into the home stretch which means
fitting all the tiny little trim details.

it's really important to take your time.

the reason I'm working cautiously here is
obvious I don't want to damage this lovely

paint job these are
all original trim pieces

that I've tidied up
myself before reinstalling.

refurbished headlight units plug into the
original wiring aftermarket trim bits are

available but we're saving upward of
five hundred dollars by simply reusing

the cleaned up
original headlight beauty

rings grill reflectors
and repainted bumpers.

the best part of any restoration
you get to put the badge on.

this scout has been a battle since day
one but she's come an awfully long way

she's now that perfect blend of both on
and off-road vehicle and that's the thing

I would be proud to
drive this car anywhere

and yes it's missing
one major part but leaving

the roof off of the refit was perfect it
gave me really safe access so I need to

get that bulky item on and then
I've got to finish all the small details.

with a compact 3.2 liter
engine four-speed gearbox

and a top speed of only


international harvester
scout is poised to join

the runaway vintage SUV
craze due to its classic

style and rough and
ready four by four handling

we bought this truck
for just eight thousand

dollars rebuilding the
transfer case cost us 175

upgraded steering
components set us back 2000

electric windscreen wipers
added another 450 we

gave 3 100 for the
paint 1075 for the interior

and bed lining plus
another grand for wheels

and 30-inch tires
altogether that's 15 800.

or about 11 500 pounds
and a time cost of 64

man-hours luckily for
us the market for these

is getting hotter by
the day and after all this

work that means we
can price it aggressively

happy oh more than
happy look at it looks

absolutely incredible
doesn't it what a great

place to come and put
it through its paces 19


tracks perfect for this

sort of vehicle you
fix the steering and the

four by four system
you're pretty confident that

everything is buttoned
up underneath this car

is mechanically ready
to tackle all of that

good if you're that
confident you can drive.

i mean they climbed
up there like it was

nothing but because
we fixed the transfer box

took it off and i tell you what it's
fascinating bit of equipment basically

you bought it as a two-wheel
drive vehicle and it has to

have this capacity to be
able to go off-road it has to.

that is brilliant i mean that just carves
through it she's good she is very good.

and there's only a
handful of cars out there

in the marketplace
that offer this sort of

experience drive them
on the road and then i

don't know on a weekend
you come to somewhere

like this and go let's just get mucky yeah
but now if you're up here and it's raining

you need to get muddy
you can just wipe the

screen clean and off
you go yeah right these

new electric wipers
are loads better than the

vacuum ones right i'm
gonna take this steep one

well you have to oh i don't like it right
do you think it's fair though the off-road

capabilities of this car have been tested
found it yes you found it so now that we've

done the off-road
box that's tipped i think

we should go on road
yeah let's give it a try.

well now it's disengaged
the front wheels and

it's now working rear
wheel drive only it's

gone from an off-road
vehicle to an on-road vehicle.

it doesn't feel like a
road car it does feel

like a road car now i
know you've done quite

a bit of work to the
steering what's it like

i mean the steering is
absolutely transformed

i'm doing this look
one finger i can roll

what is quite a heavy
little truck i can roll

it around with one
finger plus it is grabbing

and gripping like a road
car yeah i can see it's

made all the difference i'm so pleased
you've done it so what did you do to it

i updated for new steering box in
mounted it all on the outside of the rail

steering ratio is completely transformed
that's going to make it easy to sell

I'll tell you what else
is going to make it

easy to sell this color
yeah great color it's

amazing and the
other thing that is worth

noting with the seat
cover kit change the foam

because they now feel really sturdy really
sort of body hugging and then the kit went

on quite easy in fact i did the
whole car in just a few hours.

think about it we've got
a vehicle that performs

perfectly both on road
and off road it looks

great both inside and outside and i know
whoever gets behind that steering wheel

gonna absolutely love
this now our scouters

clearly come a long
way be a pride of place.

of anyone's car collection now Matt he was
first to trot he likes the way it dries.

but let's see if he
likes my price so then

Matt what do you think
i love it it's beautiful

honestly you can't
believe how far this car's

come and uh i'm really pleased with the
way it turned out so why do you want one my

brother-in-law is a
bronco guy and i got a one

up him right of course
you got one up him

not only that you're
getting into the market

with this one at the sweet
spot so I've advertised

it out there at twenty
two thousand five.

hundred dollars I've
had lots of interest in

this vehicle you got
here first so it's down

to you whether you
want it or not well it is

beautiful um it wouldn't
be doing my job if i

didn't negotiate or
try to at least a little bit

right of course so what
do you think about 21.5

well it's only a grand
off i mean usually i'd

hold my hand out and
say you got yourself a deal.

but in this instance
i have got a list of

people waiting in the
wings if you don't want

to buy it so i'm going to give them a go
and try and get that extra grand but it's

you're not 22.5 i am
not letting it go awesome

thank you thank you
well done nice deal.

well twenty two thousand
five hundred or around

sixteen thousand pounds
seems like strong money

but then look at it it's a very strong car
the good news is me and ants we've got some

more money that we can go and buy some
more cars and if you want to see those cars

make sure you join me and
ant soon on Wheeler dealers.