09x02 - Travel Week

[bunniefuu]

Good morning, fliers, and welcome
to Busy Bee Airlines.

Your inflight meal today will be
dresses and trousers.

If you get your sewing wrong,
the exits

are here, here and here.

And your captains are Esme...

...and Patrick.

Welcome to Travel Week at the
Great British Sewing Bee.

Last time...

Can't believe I'm actually here.
Ah!

...the sewers took on classics
with a twist.

This is the office.

This is the dungeon.

And Tony's cut-out dress scored him
a hole-in-one.

It's fantastic.

Maria's office-wear put her
in danger of a P45. Oh!

Oh, I don't think this is going
to work.

But an unfinished made-to-measure...
You can't wear this.

...meant Catherine was the first to
leave this year's Sewing Bee.

Catherine.
APPLAUSE

WHISTLE BLOWS

This time, the sewers are off
on their travels.

I'm birthing a bag.
TONY LAUGHS

Boldly going where no Sewing Bee
has gone before.

I don't think I'm ever going
to be backpacking.

They make emergency rainwear.

I find this kind of amusing.

But will a poolside
made-to-measure...

Swim.

...give one sewer heat stroke?

My God, I can't believe I burnt it.

I'm so happy to have made it
to week two.

I love travel and adventure.

So if I'm having a stressy moment,

I can imagine drinking c*ck
by the sea.

I've put my dolphin brooch on
because it's travel.

They all swim together.

I think they're all rather friendly,
and it's like the group.

We're in a pod.

Going into the sewing room,

I've still got high levels
of trepidation.

Mantra to myself - just slow down
and breathe a lot more.

Willkommen. Bienvenue.

And 'ey up to the sewing room.

This week, we are celebrating travel.

We're taking off with the
Pattern Challenge.

Esme, where are we going?

I'm off to there.

LAUGHTER

Right. Here we go.

Oh!

So, this is a first
for the Sewing Bee.

A rucksack.

It's got a roll-top with
a metal clasp.

It's got two adjustable straps,

and a front pocket with a zip.

Now, this travel bag is designed
to carry heavy loads,

so pick a robust fabric
for the main body.

And you'll also need to pick
a webbing for your straps.

You have three hours, 15 minutes
to complete your journey,

and your time starts now.

Woo!

Oh, no.

Sorry, Lizzie.
I was going to...

So I've gone for very
summery colours.

I thought, a travel rucksack,
you want something bright

and fun that you can find
at the airport.

I just... I love a bit of denim.

And I'm going to look for
a contrast lining.

See how we go.

What do we need? One D-ring,
three sliders,

two rectangle loops,
a swivel clasp...

Oh, my gosh! Not much then!

We'll go and see what this
turns out like.

I'm a big fan of the rucksack.

Tell me, why did you choose this?

We have never done this
challenge before.

And there are a lot of elements
in it.

The first thing they have to do is
choose an appropriate fabric.

Yeah. So the outer fabric has
to be relatively robust.

And then they have to choose
a webbing tape

that is used to form the two
adjustable shoulder straps,

the adjustable closing strap on
the top and the handle.

And the top stitching is
really important.

Cos if you look at the pocket,

if they don't get that really
neatly sewn,

that could look an absolute mess.

Yeah, cos there are so many bits
in this bag

where you're folding that webbing
strap back on itself,

I think it'd be quite easy to
get confused about which...

Yeah. ..side is the outside and
which side is the inside.

Well, let's make like baggage handlers

and go through their luggage.

There are lots of elements, yeah.

Er, there's 10, 11, 12, 13
pieces to put together.

The sewers start the rucksack
with a front piece,

attaching a zipped patch pocket and
catching in a loop and D-ring.

Two strips of webbing strengthen
the front seams.

The shoulder straps, handle, and
clasp loop are fixed

at the top and on the bottom
with adjusting sliders.

The front and back sections are
joined right sides together.

A lining is attached

and the whole bag is turned the
right way out

through a small hole.

The lining is then pushed back
inside the bag, clasps fitted,

and the roll-top is closed.

Hello, hello, hello. Hello. Hello.

Hi.
Can you show us your fabrics?

Yeah, so I've gone for a denim.

Like, a heavyweight kind of denim.

And then for the inside, I couldn't
not use this.

This is something that I've used
to make a matching outfit

for my brother and his girlfriend.
Oh, wow.

I have to use it.

Lauren comes from a large
extended family,

and last year she helped organise
a get together in Bournemouth.

We love a family event.

Every year, we have a big picnic
on the beach.

Four generations spending
the day together.

It's so much fun.

Have you ever made
a rucksack before?

So, I've made bags before.

One of the first things I did
was make my children

some pouches for when we're
travelling on holiday.

Oh, right. And I just made
them a zipped pouch,

just to put their raisins
and their passport in.

Yeah.
LAUREN LAUGHS

How old are your children?

So, seven and five.

And you gave them their passports?

Oh, no, I still hold the pouches.

I was going to say! Wow!

This is my main fabric
cos I love green.

Sort of like a canvas.

I really like rucksacks.
They're so practical.

When we went to Morocco
for our honeymoon,

we just took backpacks.

And when we go to Glastonbury.

Vicki booked to go to Glastonbury
pre-Covid.

Three years later, she had an extra
baby in tow

and made everyone matching outfits.

Did you take the whole family?
Yeah, they loved it.

They said they want to go back
next month. Oh, great.

They'll just be in an empty field
going, "OK, this isn't as fun."

"Not what I imagined."

Hi, Gillie. Hello.

What have you chosen for your...
I've...

...main fabric?
I've chosen this.

Is this your main fabric
or your lining?

It's my main fabric.

You've got to attach all
of the supports,

your straps, to the main
body fabric.

And this is your lining? Yes.
And this is your contrast?

You don't feel like this might be
a little bit heavier than that?

Well, I... It is.

So that's my main fabric,
and this is my lining.

Rather than backpacking,

as a teenager, Gillie would travel
to the south of France

with her family.

Patrick preferred that
as the outer fabric.

But it's like hiding your light
under a bushel.

I like this. And I'm not the
Crocodile Dundee type.

So why did you pick the kind of
candy stripe?

Or the deck chair stripe?

Because it makes me think of
holidays at the seaside.

Yeah. Have you ever made a bag?

Er...

Yes.
That's a huge bag.

Yeah. Uh-huh.
Yeah.

Matthew's mini bag came in handy
on his travels

in his last job on a cruise ship.

My favourite thing was just
being onstage

and hosting a big room of people,

and that's really where I kind of
found my love

for being in the sunshine
and just having fun,

living my best life.

Yes, but... I mean, you've chosen
a stripe fabric,

so you've given yourself
a slight job

cos you're going to have to think
about exactly how you cut.

It's no good just being
slightly off.

Yeah.
You can say it's a statement.

Well, you could. But it's a slightly
odd statement.

I make them. Yeah.

PATRICK LAUGHS

VICKI SIGHS
Nearly sewing.

Nearly, nearly sewing.

Top front pocket, we need.

That's top front pocket.

Lower front pocket.

So those will go together like that,
with a zip in the middle.

The instructions are basically
telling us to...

...baste the top pocket and the
bottom pocket together.

Large basting stitches temporarily
hold the two parts

of the pockets together...

Beautiful.
...ready for the zip placement.

Place the zip, place facedown along
the back of this seam.

I think it helps doing it
this method,

where you sew the zip, then you
seam rip the basting stitches.

The zip must be secured
with a top stitch...

I'm going about as contrasting
as we can get.

If I do pull it off, I will be
really, really happy.

...before the basting stitches
are removed.

Oh, OK.

And we have a pocket!

There we go.

That's really messy.

That is really messy. I'm going
to have to do that again.

So would you ever use
a bag like this?

I'm thinking of my daughter.

One of the main places that
we used to go to

is back home in Iraq, travelling.

So I'm thinking she can carry her
stuff in this rucksack. Yeah.

Kind of thing you can kind of just
shove on the floor,

pick back up again. How dare she
shove it on the floor.

Oh, really?

Asmaa honed her sewing skills making
children's clothes

for her daughter, Sophia, who's now
leaving home for university.

I made this for you.
A few years ago now.

Yes, I don't really wear pink
any more.

You don't wear pink!

Does your daughter like
bright colours? No.

No?
LAUGHTER

Maybe this will be
the turning point.

I think it should be.

Yeah, she'll be like, "I was really
dour until..."

Until that yellow.
"And now...

"..I just feel much better
about everything."

Right. Cut a piece of webbing,
fold in half over a D-ring.

Where's my D-ring gone?

The D-ring.

Er...

It sounds really wrong, doesn't it?

MARIA LAUGHS

So I think this part is going
to be part of the clasp,

like opening of the bag.

The next step is fun as well
cos we're putting

the big long strap bits on.

It should start looking like
a bag soon, I hope.

I am actually really enjoying this.

Come over the lining.

I did a little bit of a camo stripe.

It's just introducing a little bit
of zhoosh.

Tony enjoys travelling
around Cornwall

on one of his many mountain bikes,

complete with home-made
accessories.

You've made a bag before?
I have made bags, yeah.

My sewing bag down on the floor
there is one that I made.

This one?
Yeah, that one there.

In the exact same fabric as
you're using now?

That bag is nothing like this bag.

Well, apart from if you look
at it with your eyes.

You are halfway through, everybody.

Oh, my God!

Well, I'm afraid I'm still
on the zip.

But I'm having a lovely time.

So I'm now doing the back straps.

I think they're going to be
a little bit fiddly.

These are rectangle loops.

I'm turning the straps over
the rectangle loops.

The loop is secured to the top strap
with a reinforcing square and cross.

That's the back with the raw edge.

So that's the front. And it's a nice
little pattern as well.

We're going to get onto the actual
attaching them to the bag

in a minute.

That is my...

...right shoulder.

So the one that comes
over from there

has to be that one.

The top straps loop over to
meet the bottom strap...

Lay each strap with right side
facing up.

...so it's crucial to keep track
of which way round

the straps will end up, or the raw
edges will be on show.

I'm attaching the straps to the bag
with the carry handle.

I can see Tony steaming ahead.

Done it wrong.

I've got a raw edge.

Argh! You've got a radar,
haven't you? That's what it is.

Somebody picks up any form
of unpicking tool, and you're there.

Oh, no!

I've done it the wrong way round.

Because the straps flip backwards,
that should've gone underneath.

You need to hide that raw edge.

Bet I'm not the only person
that's done that.

Please! Please, please, please,
please, please, please, please!

Yeah, there we go.

Everything's lined up
as it should be.

I'm stressed.
You're not the only one, mate.

I've unpicked mine, like,
three times now.

So, lower strap.

I've done it backwards.

Oh, no!

The straps are the wrong length now
cos I've had to cut

a huge chunk off it.

Welcome to the Pattern Challenge.

Tony! Hello.

Can I look at pictures of your dog?

She's so cute.
Oh, my gosh.

Your bag could be full of dog
treats, couldn't it? Yeah.

It's always dangerous, that,

cos other dogs come up and sniff
you very cleverly.

I mean, I harass the dogs.

I see cute dogs and it's like,
"Hi, doggies." I know.

I call it dogging and my husband
says I mustn't.

I would advise that you don't.
Yeah.

I'm like, "Oh, I had a lovely time
dogging on the high street."

Even if the sewers have managed
to attach their webbing

the right way round...

Run through a slider, then through
the bottom.

...before they can secure the top
and bottom together...

So I am going to channel
my underwear,

er, knowledge.

...the lower straps need passing
through a slider,

so they can be adjusted when worn.

Oh, so that slides through there?

Like, physically how?

Will that change length?

Hang on, let's just double-check
before I sew it. Yeah.

She's only gone and done it.

You all right, Gillie?

I just didn't understand it.

I don't know... No, I don't think
that looks right, mate.

No, you shouldn't have put
those together.

They all should be separate,
all right? Yes.

I'm going to continue,
but I'm not...

I'm not winning.

You have half an hour!

The risk of not finishing
is all too real.

I'm staying calm.

But I don't think I've got enough
time to do, er, everything.

I'm just sewing up the back
and the front.

And I think it's meant to create
some sort of box shape.

I'm just about to do the lining,

which is exactly the same thing as
we've just done for the bag,

but I'm going to do it
with the lining now.

So I've pinned the lining
and I'm just sewing it.

Left a 15-centimetre hole
in the bottom seam

so I can flip it out and turn it
the right way around.

I don't know if I'll get through
to my lining.

I've skipped a few steps

to get to a point where the bag is
actually looking like a bag.

Apart from panicking,

right now, I am putting the bag
into the lining.

You sew all around, you stick your
hand through a gap...

And then you pull the outer bag
outside the hole in the lining.

Like magic.

I'm birthing a bag.

Stitch, stitch to close it.

Okey dokey.

Just feels like it's taking forever.

I've finally got to the lining.

I haven't got to the lining.

There's no line.

I've tried. That's all that matters,
isn't it?

One minute left!

Oh, I'm out of top stitch thread.
Oh!

This is the last step.

Hook fastener...

That's the one.

That's not sewing.

Oh!

I've got no bobbin left!

Right, move, move, move, move...

Feels like I'm in a horror movie.

I'm not going to finish
the bag at all.

Don't think I'm ever going
to go backpacking.

Needles up, sewers! Please bring
your bags forward,

ensure that you've packed them yourselves

and that they contain no sharp
objects or contraband.

♪ Summer's not a bummer...

For the first time on
The Great British Sewing Bee,

11 rucksacks made in just three
hours and 15 minutes.

I think they look great.

It's kind of like a...

...rave at a youth hostel.

LAUGHTER

♪ And it's now

♪ Summer is heaven in '77... ♪

Everything looks like it's
in the right place.

Straps on the back, which adjust.

Got the roll on the top.

We've got the lining in place.

I do like the choice of fabric.

It's got a classic skatery vibe
to it.

Honestly, I think it's really good. Thanks.

I love the colours you've chosen.

They go really well together.

Thank you.

Hmm.

I'm off hiking!

♪ To celebrate summer with me...

This looks quite chic.

Thank you.
The only thing is...

...the strap, you've put on
the wrong way around.

Yes. You've got a raw edge
on the outside there.

Obviously if it was the right way round,

you wouldn't see the end
of that strap.

♪ Summer's not a bummer...

You gave yourself a big extra job
to do by choosing

a striped base fabric.

You can see a little dislocation
in the stripes

as you go up through the middle.

So, if we don't ask you for
a stripe,

don't give us a stripe.

♪ Summer's not a bummer... ♪

I really like the combination
of fabrics.

I know we didn't ask you to put
an extra stripe,

but I really think it works.

Annoyingly, it's ever so slightly
lower at this end

than that end.

Oh.

You have a little hole here.

I didn't notice that.

Oh. I've found another little hole.

It's not bad. It's just a little bit
untidy in places.

OK.

I think this oatmeal works
really nicely

with this slightly paler denim.

We can't roll the top.

So I think you should've used
a heavier weight fabric.

Something has gone badly wrong here.

This strap has an adjustment of
about an inch and a quarter.

I had several goes at it,
so I had to cut it.

It's just a shame. Yeah.

You're nowhere near finished.

You've got a raw edge on
the outside there.

Your top stitching is great,

and because you've got white,
it really jumps out at you.

Which probably took a bit more time.

I mean, I like the intention.

You've just got to make sure you've
got enough time

to do those extra details.

The fabric is a good weight.

Obviously you haven't had enough
time to attach your clip.

So let's have a look...

Aha! I got the lining in, like,
a minute.

And I just stuffed it in.

I like the combination
of the colours.

It's actually very neatly sewn.

This strap isn't absolutely in
the middle of the handle.

But these are very nicely put in.

I actually think you've done
a really good job.

Thank you.

You've given us a very

different-looking rucksack,

and actually I think the colours
and the prints look great.

However, this fabric is
far too light.

We did talk about that when
we came to see you.

If I unpin it,

we can see that we have
no lining at all.

You've done the same thing that a
number of other people have done.

So you've turned the strap
to the outside,

where it needed to be
turned to the inside.

Yes. It's not been your best
challenge, I don't think.

I had a spot of bother.

Patrick and Esme will now rank
the roll-top rucksacks

and pick the leader of the pack.

In eleventh place is...

...Gillie.
Thank you.

It's...
A disaster.

Tenth place, it's Lizzie.

Again, not finished.

Mia is ninth.

Matthew is eighth.

Tony is seventh.

Maria, sixth.

Fauve is fifth.

Lauren, fourth.

And Tony is third.

In second place...

...Asmaa.
Thank you.

Almost perfection.
Thank you.

So, in first place is Vicki.

APPLAUSE

Really well sewn.

You did great.
Thank you.

♪ Pack up your troubles in your old
kit-bag

♪ And bury them beneath the sea... ♪

It was a very complex pattern,

so I didn't think I'd done as well
as I would've liked with it.

And then I won. So I'm really pleased.

It was lovely to come second.

And I'll take it.

But rucksack is not for me.

I found that very difficult.

I thought Esme and Patrick
were very kind to me.

Because I knew it wasn't finished,
I knew it wasn't neat.

In fact, er, there wasn't a lot
going for it, really.

If the first challenge tested
the sewers' ability

to follow instructions,

the next one throws it all
out the window.

Welcome back, sewers.

It's time now for the Transformation.

Patrick, what are they upgrading
this week?

Well, the good news is, Esme and I
have decided

to give you all a break. Aww.

No way. A windbreak. Oh, my God.

The bad news, it's a windbreak.

And we'd like you to take
this windbreak

and turn it into a piece of
improvised rainwear.

So windbreak fabric can be used to
make exciting sculptural garments.

Now, this one is judged blind,

so these guys are heading
off for some tapas.

Enjoy yourselves. Thanks.

Good luck.

From stopping wind to
stopping traffic,

you have 90 English minutes,
and your time starts now.

♪ Here comes the summer...

You're all too fast!

♪ Here comes the summer

♪ Here comes the summer... ♪

Oh, my gosh.

What are we going to do with this?

So, Esme, we've got 90 minutes
to make a waterproof.

What are we making?

What I expect is something
that's practical,

but also it's a very
sculptural fabric.

So something unexpected.

Not just a normal rain mac. Yeah.

There's no point trying to treat
this windbreaker

like a normal drapey fabric.

It definitely isn't drapey.

So, Esme, what's the best thing
that's ever

happened to you behind a windbreak?

I'm not saying.

You've made an incredible bust.

I want to make a corset with a hood.

Oh!

So this is like undergarment
rainproof?

Yes. For a lady that wants to
wear nothing in the rain.

Ooh, a little cropped jacket?

Oh, you know what I'm getting?
Yeah?

Hillary Clinton in the rain.

Whatever the weather, Fauve can be
found on the golf course.

I started golf when I was
about ten years old.

I forced my grandpa to take me
to golf lessons,

stuck with it,

and been fortunate enough to
represent my country

last year in the
Home Internationals.

What do you think of this
kind of fabric?

It makes a nice sound, doesn't it?

We can say ill*gal stuff, like...

RUSTLING DROWNS SPEECH

I'm going to do a short rain jacket
with puffy sleeves.

And I think I'm going to do
a skirt with it.

A skirt when it's raining?
Why not, yeah?

I take one look at this and I think
of Brits abroad.

Yes.
What are you making?

I'm going to make a swing coat.

And I'm going to put pockets on it.
Ooh!

I've got every intention in making
essentially a cagoule.

You've got that much for
a sleeve,

so then that's another sleeve.

So that's a hood, yeah.
That's not much, is it?

Are you having fun?
I am. I'm having lots of fun.

I've made something with a hood,
with a drawstring.

In Scotland, I just think the rain
sometimes just comes down harder.

You're right, it comes sideways.

Maria moved to Scotland
from Costa Rica

when she was eight years old.

I was kicking and screaming

cos I didn't want to come.

But my life is here now.

You can't take the Scottish twang
out of me.

It's ingrained in me now.

I'm having to join two bits,
you know, to get length.

OK. It's not really
a lot of material.

There are a couple of people using
the same material. Yes.

I could just...

Oh, my God.

There's a really good puppy.

She didn't fall for it.

While most of the sewers are
making raincoats...

I can see Twiggy in it.

...Vicki is going more left-field.

I'm going to make a jumpsuit.

It'd be great if I was going
to a festival.

Practical. Practical and fun.

This is fantastic.

There's a whole big cloak going on.

This is my c*ck cape
of many colours.

I'm just thinking, if you're on
the beach...

Gorgeous. ..and it starts raining,
and you don't want

to put your drink down,

pop out your...

So what you're describing is an
excessive drink protector?

Of course!
I love it.

Lizzie was taught to sew by her mum
over 40 years ago.

My mum died when I was 12 years old.

She was an amazing sewer.

She was fantastic.

When I'm making things, I feel
like I'm keeping her close by.

Yeah, that's what sewing
means to me.

Love the shape.
Well, they said sculptural.

Yeah. After the last challenge,
the only way is up.

It is. And out, yeah.
And out.

Whee!

It looks something like a dress.

A waterproof dress.

Look, there's structure in there.

Tony enjoys making dresses,

as well as clothes for himself.

And his friends are always happy
to volunteer as models.

It's quite soft and light.
That is lovely.

So it'd be really good for something
in the summer. Really nice.

Slightly uneven, but hey,
we'll go with it.

We're making it up as we go along.

You are halfway through!

I've got these big...

Big sleeves.

So I'm going to do, like,
a little wrap jacket.

I'm not the most practical
dresser anyway,

so who needs sleeves in the rain?

Not me.

Mia is very practical when it comes
to arts and crafts.

As well as sewing, she makes
stained glass, pottery,

and she crochets.

A lot of my hobbies are very creative.

I have ideas all the time,

and I feel like if I didn't have
any way to make them,

then what would I do instead?

I think the way to Esme's heart is
just making a big massive bow.

This looks intricate!
A lot of ruffle is going on here.

Yeah, I'm getting velociraptor.

It's going to be a collar.

It's going to be like a train
coming out of the collar.

Ooh!

There's a zip in there.

You have half an hour left!

Half an hour. Let's get going.

This is going to go on the back
of the collar.

I like a bit more coverage
in the rain.

So I've just been to get
some boning.

If I put it around the rim
of the hood,

and then maybe up the spine as well,
that'll give it a kind of...

It'll hold.

I'm adding a really big collar.

Trying to make a hood.

But is it a hood?

It's a hood. That's what hoods do,
isn't it?

Bring out the pink of the zip
with a pink binding.

I don't know what I'm doing.

The burst binding around the neck
is the pop of colour.

I suppose it's a bit like, er,
Regency meets RuPaul.

It's just gone so wrong.

So the trousers are too small,

so I've, like, added some random
triangle into the middle.

This is like a book on how
not to make a garment.

I just did a middle pleat so it
helps curvature at the back.

I'm just doing my pockets.

I would've liked to sew some buttons
on them for a bit of fun, but...

Just changes the shape from being
an office worker

to being something a bit more fun.

An orange one. A green one.

And a red one.

Ten minutes, everybody!

Oh, my gosh!

When people are thinking of sensible
weather gear, they're like,

"How tight is it on my crotch -
number one?

"And number two, will it
keep me dry?"

I'm doing like little
rosette-y things.

And I think I may end up putting
them on the cuff.

How long should an arm be?

About a foot?

Yeah, that's what I thought.

Also, these guys don't have them.
They don't have arms.

Yeah.
Wicked.

We could make this work.

One minute left!

One minute!

Just wish it was more upright.

That's it. I'm not doing any more.

I'm done. I'm happy.

Needles up, sewers!

Bring your mannequins forward

and muddle them up like you're
a baggage handler

at terminal five.

It's ridiculous!

Ooh, dramatic Red Riding Hood.

♪ Sunshine on a rainy day

♪ Makes my soul, makes my soul

♪ Trip, trip, trip away...

11 windbreakers transformed
into improved rainwear

in just 90 minutes,

and Esme and Patrick have no idea
whose is whose.

They look fab.

Yeah, spectacular.

♪ Makes my soul, makes my soul... ♪

It's a practical piece of
improvised rainwear.

It's using all the sculptural
nature of that fabric.

You know, and it couldn't look any
less like a windbreaker.

This frill round the neck
is brilliant.

We've got a very, er, patriotic looking...

Yes.
...raincoat.

It definitely reminds me
of a Union Jack.

We've got a button detail.

I think it works well.

I love the sleeves.

They kind of match. I think
it looks great.

We have an all-in-one here.

I find this kind of amusing.

Well, this V-shape.
The codpiece section?

Yes, exactly.

It's a bit snug.

I love the shape of this coat.

I think the hood is really
well-engineered.

Now, one thing, this sleeve is tiny.

Yeah.

I like that we've got pink binding,
which goes with the zip.

No, I think it looks great.
Yeah, I think it's great.

Yeah.

We've got a gigantic hood,

which is reinforced with a bit
of boning

to create this enormous 3D shape.

Well, one thing I think is...

...you get a side boob.

Well, I think it looks great,

and I like that it's above
the shoulder.

I think it uses all of the
structural nature

of that fabric incredibly well.

What is this?
A rosette?

At the cuff. Oh.

Unfortunately, it's on the back.

And I would've thought it should've
been on the front.

I agree.

I think it's not bad.

I like the loops.

I think it's a shame the loops
didn't go down the front.

The frill feels incongruous.

And actually, if they had put those
loops down the front,

it would've worked much
better for me.

It feels a bit sort of
Alien Versus Predator.

Yes.

Just a simple drawcord.
And it's black.

It's a shame it's not...
It's a shame it...

Yeah.
...one of these colours.

We've got a matching jacket
and skirt,

this great big stand-up collar.

It's got huge presence as an outfit.

I love this Queen Elizabeth I
collar. Mm.

Patrick and Esme will now rank the
windbreaker Transformations

and decide who's the reigning champion.

So, in eleventh place is...

...the all-in-one with
the knickerbockers.

That's Vicki.

I think it'd be really tight
over the hips and bottom.

In tenth place is the giant...

...cape with the orange trim.

That's Lizzie.
Lizzie, we really liked it.

We just weren't sure about the
ruffle down the front.

Fauve is ninth.

Maria, eighth.

Gillie, seventh.

Mia, sixth.

Lauren, fifth.

Matthew, fourth.

And Tony is third.

In second place is the...

...purple rain dress
with the pink trim.

That's Tony W.

Tony, this is really fantastic.

Beautifully fitted, very cleverly engineered,

and just really clever
use of the trim.

Well done.

So in first place

is our Elizabethan top and skirt.

That's Asmaa.

I love the ruffle.

I think it's great.

Thank you.

I am shocked that I'm here...

...with that result.

Not expected at all.

The giant, well-placed triangle
was just hilarious.

I have been in this position before,

having to work hard to come
back up again.

Don't know if I've got what it
takes at the moment,

but I suspect it's in there somewhere.

Do you know what, anyone want a cup
of tea? Yeah. Yes, please.

There is one challenge left
in Travel Week,

after which someone will win
Garment Of The Week

and someone will be packing
their bags.

So, how's Travel Week for you?

Spectacularly good, I think.

Asmaa had a particularly
fantastic day. Yeah.

I love the Queen Elizabeth I frill.

I just think it's great.

Got two people, Lizzie and Gillie,
who are down at the bottom.

Well, Gillie's rucksack was
basically a mess.

But I do like the combination
of colour.

Lizzie's was second from bottom,

and actually what she had done
was pretty well sewn.

She just didn't get it finished.

Think about what might happen today.

We need to see a bit of ambition
from both of them,

and we need to see fantastic execution.

Hello!

You all right?
Hello.

I'd quite like to measure you.

Hello, sewers, and welcome back
to our models.

For this week's made-to-measure,
you're making swimsuits.

Now, this can be a sleek,
sporty number,

or something for poolside posing.

The most important thing is that
it fits perfectly.

Otherwise we might have to
pixelate some areas.

You have four hours
until splashdown,

and your time starts now.

So, the first thing I want to do is
just take some measurements.

The sewers have practised making
the swimsuits at home.

So just a bit less than ten.

Now they have to fit them precisely
to their models.

Ooh, I think I need to extend it
a bit.

I feel like I've got loads of ground
to make up on.

I'm quite worried.

But I know I can make this swimsuit.

You can sit back down for now.
Thank you.

Swimwear. It's the underwear
of the underwater, isn't it?

What are you hoping to see?

We have asked them to make swimsuits
with some sort

of complex element to it.

They could have ruffles, they could
have asymmetric costumes.

What we don't want are just
plain old, common

or garden one-piece swimsuit. Right.

Some of the things they make will be
for sitting on the sun lounger...

Mm.
...by the pool.

But what's really important
in a swimsuit

is you have the length of the body. Mm.

It has to have a really good fit.

If it doesn't fit correctly,
you can't swim in it

and you can't pose in it. No.

Well, I wonder who'll make a splash
and who will bellyflop?

Little bit nervous.

Lycra's enough to make
anyone nervous.

It's hard, this.

The pattern pieces are smaller
than the model's size

because it's designed to have
a little bit of stretch.

Centre back.

So it's really hard to hold the
pieces up to the model

and see if they're going to fit,
because they don't fit.

Yeah, stretch fabric is never easy

cos it can be a little bit slippery,
and it wants to move.

I tend to just buy swimsuits.

I've got, like, quite sensitive skin
and I burn really easy,

so I'm making a long-sleeved
swimsuit.

So the idea is it's practical
and sexy.

Vicki's sun-safe swimsuit will
have ruched shoulders,

a bow at the waist,

and she'll colour block with eight
panels of Lycra.

Morning.
Show us what you're making.

It's got long sleeves, a V neck,

and it's going to be chequered
like a Battenburg.

But a sexy Battenburg.

Let's hope so.

Have you sewn Lycra before?

Once.
And have you practised?

Once.

The one time I've sewn...
And that's the one...

Fauve is going for a similar
long-sleeved number.

Cos I do cold water swimming,

so you need the sleeves
in the winter.

And then we've got a mermaid top.

Cos why not?

But it's not for posing.

It's for swimming in the sea.

Fauve's wild swimming costume has
a V neck, gathered shoulders

and elasticated pants.

I think the biggest thing for me
with cold water swimming

is there's loads of different groups
of ladies,

of all shapes and sizes,

and nobody comments, nobody judges.

We do it just to be together
and to have fun.

This is so bright.

This is madness.

But I'm only using this as a lining.

Morning, Tony.
Good morning, sir.

These are the fabrics you're using?
I'm using an outer as a scuba.

And I'm lining it with
a swimsuit Lycra.

Why are you lining it?

The basis of my swimsuit is
a cold water swimsuit.

Where I live, in Bude in Cornwall,
there's a big sea pool.

Yeah. And it's inspired by the
people I see walking

back from the beach every day.

Tony's double-layered scuba swimsuit
will have a halter neck

and retro-style leg line.

So this is almost like a s...
It's a skort.

Skirt? A skort?
A skort.

OK.
It's a modest swimming suit...

OK. ..with a bit of a less
than modest top.

Another sewer working
with scuba is Mia.

So I'm using scuba for mine.

So I can get pleats in the sleeves
that look nice.

I enjoy a sleeve. I think it's a
good way of adding a bit of drama.

This is more of a poolside swimsuit.

I think if you swam in
pleated sleeves,

you might drown a bit.

Mia's contrasting her voluminous sleeves

with tight-fitting bottoms,

creating a cut-out effect
on the front and back,

and adding a tie at the bust.

I just can't swim.

I swim like a brick, I just drown.

So this is probably a perfect
swimsuit for me.

ESME: Hello, hello. Hi, there.
Hi, Lizzie.

Tell me about the overall design
of your swimsuit.

Er, I'm creating straightforward,
simple shape to begin with,

because I know you love ruffles
so much.

So I'm doing a ginormous ruffle all
the way round the neckline.

Ooh, I say!

Lizzie's frilly ruffle will continue
around to a low scoop back,

which is secured with a tie.

I've made myself a few swimsuits.
Oh, right. OK.

And I actually quite enjoy it.

And I'm so determined to finish.

So if I pin that like that...

Now the swimsuits are cut out...

That's a bit baggy around the bum.

...it's the sewers' first chance to
see what adjustments

must be made for a perfect fit.

This is a little bit wide.

Looking OK.

I don't want the lining poking out,
but we'll sort that out later.

Couple of tweaks on the bottom
to stop it being baggy.

I've never fitted pants or
anything on anyone before.

I don't know if the crotch
is too wide.

The triangle was enough.

My inspiration, my motivation
behind this swimsuit,

was I wanted every
female-identifying person

to feel comfortable in
a bathing suit.

So there's a skirt to help
exaggerate bits,

and there's also a skirt to kind
of help disguise things

that any sort of person might have.

Matthew's swimsuit represents
the colours

of the transgender flag.

It features a high neck,
darts at the bust

and a crossover back.

Just done my first ever
overlocked seam,

and it worked!

So I am excited by it.

Matthew isn't the only sewer adding
a skirt to their swimsuit.

What you making today?

It has got a halter neck on,

and I've added a little skirt.

And the skirt is to give it
more shape?

A lot of my friends don't
like swimsuits

because they're usually quite
high cut around the leg.

Yeah.
And they'd rather cover that up.

But they do like their boobs.

Oh, I see, so we're getting a real
picture of your friends here, Tony.

Tony's Lycra swimsuit will have
a plunging neckline

and a contrast panel running from
the halter neck

down to the hem.

You've got to pin it.

If you don't pin it, it moves.

I was a bit worried cos I've got
colour blocking,

and it's going to have light
blue down the middle.

Just need to make sure it lines up
when I put the skirt together.

Perhaps there are people out
there who enjoy Lycra.

Just not me.

Hey, Maria. Hello.

What kind of swimming costume
are you making?

A panelled swimsuit with a tie front
and a little cut-out at the back.

Ooh.

And would you wear this kind of
costume yourself?

Yeah. Is that what you were
thinking?

Kind of thing you'd like?
I would definitely wear this.

This is just me.

Maria's vintage-inspired swimsuit
will feature skinny straps,

a front bow and contrast
side panels.

So that's the front.
Oh, it's beautiful!

Is this something quite clever that,

if you did need to take them
in for fitting...?

The more seams that you have... Yeah.

...you've got more options
for fitting it, yeah.

That's so clever because
that really is

what this is going to be judged on.

Yeah.

WHISTLE BLOWS
No running.

And you're halfway through.

Oh, I can't believe it's halfway.

Feeling the time pressure.

It's a pleated sleeve ready. Wha!

Tell me about the swimsuit
that you're going to make.

I'm just making a basic swimsuit.

I'm sort of inspired by
the south of France,

and I think the fabric's
quite Italian.

So when you say it's basic, are
there any other features on it?

I thought it might look attractive

if I bound the edge with
the orange, subtly.

It'll go well with that.
Should do. Yeah.

I think it's a very good match,
yeah. Yeah.

Gillie's swimsuit is a classic
one-piece

with elasticated pants,

and she's hoping to make it
more complex

with a binding around the neckline.

How are you going to make it
fit over the bust?

I'm going to dart it. OK.

And I did ask my model if she might
like to have cups,

but she said not.

It's going to be very simple,
I'm afraid.

And these will be tied, too.

I added a bit extra length to them.

Swim. For a swimsuit that functions
well in and out of the water...

Yeah, it fits nicely.

That should look OK
once it's sewn up.

Happy with that.

...particular attention must be paid
to the fit around the bust.

Your left.

And for extra support, some of the
sewers are adding foam cups.

I did make the cups myself.

I couldn't really find ones
that I liked.

Lauren, I've got bad news.

Go for it.
That's too see-through.

I'm looking at this other

swimming costume shape over here,
and presuming there's more.

There is more. So this is
the outside. Yeah.

Yeah. That is fancy. I love swimming
costumes with belts on.

So do I.

Cos it then looks like you're
properly sort of dressed.

Dressed well! I like the idea of
this swimsuit

being multipurpose,

so that in the evening you can wear
it as, like, a leotard

with some wide-legged pants
or something. Gorgeous.

And then, in the daytime, it's a
swimming costume.

Lauren's poolside to evening
swimsuit will be asymmetric,

belted, and will have cups
fitted into the lining.

You happy?
I'm happy with that.

Yeah?
I've never done one before.

Oh, well, see what happens.
Yeah, exactly.

Describe the overall
look of the garment.

It is a plain back,

ruched front, which has got
a middle panel. Yeah.

Which has got two diamond-shape
sort of cut-outs.

Oh, OK. But they're not cut-outs.
They're going to be in brown.

I was channelling Marilyn Monroe.

Ah!
If I can do that.

Asmaa's Marilyn Monroe-inspired
swimsuit

will also have two bands

which follow the diamond shape
to form a halter neck.

And she's inserting her handmade
cups for support.

They are not quite level,
but you know what?

I'm going to leave it.

It's going to be covered with lots
of layers of ruched fabric.

Hopefully the judges
won't look inside.

Starting to look swimsuit-shaped,
isn't it?

Top is done.

Kind of.

Now it's sleevey time.

The judges have asked for more than
a simple one-piece...

Just doing some gathering stitches
on the top shoulder.

...and want the sewers to include
complex elements

that demonstrate some design flair.

I'm not entirely sure
what possessed me

to decide on doing this design
to be honest.

The ruffles I did in my Transformation

obviously didn't go down
at all well.

These have to have impact,

so I'm trying to cut quickly
so it's a lovely sharp edge.

I'm putting an orange binding
in my bathing costume.

Is your binding on?
Yes.

It's not that good.
Should sit flat.

And that doesn't, but it's on.

I'm going to keep going.

You OK?
Mm-hm.

Bit loose there, but I've got
nothing... I've got no...

I could put a tuck, but that would
be last-minute. That's fine.

It's a ruffle.

It's the sort of thing that Esme
will be on it with eagle eyes.

So if I can just stitch that
into the swimsuit,

happy days.

One hour left, everybody!

I wish these machines went faster!

It's not perfect, but there we are.

So those are the panels.
I'm going to have to iron it.

The next step now is to attach
them both together.

Matthew is just trying his on
with his model.

Fit wasn't terrific.

Trying to maybe add darts,

and extra stitches to hold places.

I am concerned about Gillie's.

She's binding around the neckline. Yes.

Where she's gone round the corners,

it's really not lying very flat
at all.

I'm not very pleased with this.

The shoulders, they should sit flat.

And that... One does
and one doesn't.

And I don't have time to undo that,
so better press on.

The thing I'm slightly worried about
is that iron.

Are they ironable, these fabrics?
No.

At all?

You have to be so careful,
otherwise it'll melt.

So, elastic time, here we go.

Can be a bit of a slippery
little sucker.

That's twisted.

Arms, legs, neck is all elastic.

I've done it wrong.

Sewn my elastic to the right side,

and I should've sewn it
to the wrong side.

I think I may just have
to flip them over.

It's going to be a little bit bulky
on her then, though, isn't it?

MARIA SIGHS

This isn't really working out.

I've basically lost 15 minutes
getting this elastic...

15 minutes, everybody!

There's... There's a ton to do.

Just got to sew this ruffle in.

I've got to rush the bit that is
most prominent.

I-I think we're all right,
to be honest. Yay!

That's the right answer.
Yay!

We're just power-sewing through it.

May look awful, but there we are.

I've now sewn over the whole thing.

I've just sewn over the swimsuit
in the wrong way.

Can't do anything about it.

I'm scared to iron it.

ASMAA GASPS
I burnt it.

Seriously, I give up.

I just burnt it.

Oh, my good god.

Five minutes, everyone!

I thought we had two minutes so I'm
really delighted with that. Oh.

OK, well, enjoy these leisurely
three extra minutes. Woo!

Hasn't quite lined up.
It's shifted over.

Oh, well, can't change it now.

This is the messiest... strap I've
ever done in my life.

I think it's lovely. I would
definitely wear this.

I've got a very lovely model.

Oh, my God, I can't believe
I burnt it.

My foot is all the way to the floor.

Come on, Lizzie, just keep
your cool.

You see that bit where
it went wrong?

I might get away with it.

I've messed up the front.
I've messed up the back.

It is what it is.

Those two darts I'm adding
could be better,

but do you know what?

It will look amazing when you're
swimming at night.

Goggles off, sewers!

You have finished!

Now towel off and get your models
ready for the catwalk.

♪ And you can run in the sun

♪ Havin' fun with the one that you
really love...

11 beach-ready swimsuits
made-to-measure

in just four hours.

♪ With the boy that you met
on vacation

♪ And on a warm summer night
it's all right... ♪

Overall shape of it, and the choice
of colour,

is perfect.

You know, we asked for complex elements,

and you've given us really very
complex elements indeed.

And the shape of those
sleeves is amazing.

I think the only issue
that you've had

is just the top of the pant section
needed a bit more tension,

just to keep it flat
against the back.

I was slightly worried
about this fabric

cos it hasn't got much stretch.

But actually it's worked
really well.

And it has drama.

You've absolutely nailed the brief.

Thank you.

♪ Beach baby, beach baby

♪ Give me your hand

♪ Give me somethin' that I can
remember... ♪

It looks very well fitting.

I do like this fabric,

and I love the ruffle.

Now, what is happening here?

You can see the raw edge.

I think the shape is very dramatic.

I think it has shown ambition.

And I think the fit is really good.

It's just a shame that the finish
on the edge isn't quite up to

what you want it to be.

♪ Surfer queen, my surfer queen

♪ Where'd you go and
where've you been?

♪ I want to be there... ♪

Because it's so complex, I do think
that you've done a pretty good job.

There are a few things going on,

and I think the most obvious one
is that you've burnt the front.

No, no, I'm calling it the
singed iron effect.

If you're going to do a
singed iron effect,

I think we need to make sure that
the singed iron effect

is more deliberately placed.

♪ Falling in love in the summertime
is dynamite

♪ And easy... ♪

I'm going to say something
about the crotch.

LAUGHTER

The crotch is too wide,
so we've got folds.

Think it's understated,

but I think it's got enough in it.

I think that tortoiseshell buckle
with that rusty brown fabric

works really, really nicely.

♪ Sunshine came softly through
my window today... ♪

I think the gathers are
well distributed

across the shoulder.

I don't think the edge finishing
around the legs is terrific.

What's in there?
It's elastic.

But because I'd sewn it
the wrong way,

I then panicked,

then turned it over.

It's just really tight on her.

Very tight. Yeah.

♪ But there ain't no cure for
the summertime blues. ♪

Love the colours. I love the fabric.

And having this dark panel
on the side,

it really emphasises the waist.

Now I'm getting to the safety pins.

So obviously you didn't finish.

Let's turn around to the back.

And...

Oh!
My strap's not finished, yeah.

I like the overall design of it.

I think, altogether, you've thought
about how all of these things work.

The overall look of it is terrific.

Don't like the execution.
Fair enough.

♪ On the beach...

♪ Yeah

♪ Down on the beach. ♪

Because we've got a central panel
down the front,

we need these seams to be perfectly
lined up,

and they're not.

The two are skewwhiff.

And that really kind of interrupts
the flow of it.

I think it's a shame you've
top-stitched here

cos it emphasises this even more.

I'm going to look at
the knickers now.

OK.

Ah. We can see the lining.

♪ It's been a long, hot summer

♪ And it's 95 degrees in
the shade... ♪

Vicki, it's super bold, isn't it?

I mean, these colours absolutely
leap out at you.

I do like the gathers
on the shoulder.

I think the crotch is a bit wide.

But I do think it has got an impact.

♪ I'm staying out for the summer

♪ Playing games in the rain... ♪

Well, I think it looks great,

and I do like camo with
the flowers on.

I think the fit isn't bad at all.

Just where the front is going
into the strap,

we've got a bit of a step.

Just a couple of little things
that you could improve upon.

Yeah.
I love the shoes and the hat.

It's you.
It is me.

♪ Here comes summer

♪ School is out
Oh, happy day

♪ Here comes summer... ♪

I think overall the fit looks
really very good.

Thank you.
It's hugging the small of her back.

And I think the straps are sitting
in just the right place.

The orange binding, you've only placed

around the front of the neck. Yeah.

You've had to sort of stuff it
into the seam,

and you've not done that
very neatly at all.

And because it's quite a simple
overall design,

you really needed to think about how
you finished that join.

One side looks higher
than the other.

I mean, I love the fabric.

It does fit well.

I do think it's simple. Yes.

Did you practise doing this?

Not enough.

♪ I can still recall our last summer

♪ I still see it all... ♪

I think you know what I'm going
to say.

The thing that really jumps out
are these darts.

I love the colour combination.

I love the panelling.

And I really like the high neckline.

The execution is not brilliant.

You've got lumps in the straps.

Unfortunately, we can see
the knicker showing.

There are quite a few things
that don't work.

Well done, Matthew.
Thank you.

I don't feel safe at all.

It would mean a lot to get
through to next week.

I think I've got so many ideas,

and I just want to go through
with them.

Er, the swimming costume, I chose
the fabric especially,

and it did make a statement.

I thought that I perhaps don't have
to do too much to it.

All the others were much
more flamboyant, much more going on.

Only a couple of things left to do.

Over to a man who goes to
Benidorm every winter,

it's Patrick Grant.
LAUGHTER

Our Garment Of The Week
this week is...

...Mia!

APPLAUSE
Well done!

Fantastically ambitious.

loads of amazing features,
brilliantly fitted.

Thank you.
Well done.

Unfortunately, as you know,
one of you

will be cutting your holiday short,

but hopefully you've got a suitcase
full of memories.

The person going home is...

...Gillie.

Gillie! Oh, my God!
Gillie, darling!

Aw!

Not the Duchess!
The Duchess!

Well, I think I've been very lucky
to have been here.

Gillie, we're going to miss you.

In a way, I wish I could bottle
the atmosphere,

and then, every now and then,
just breathe it in.

Cos it's been exciting.

APPLAUSE

I think Gillie chose a garment
for her made-to-measure

that lacked a bit of ambition,

so her execution needed to
be absolute perfection.

And it really wasn't.

Mia won Garment Of The Week because
it had so much impact.

For me, the imagination
and creativity

is really important.

But it also has to be well sewn.

And that's what she did.

MIA SIGHS
That was a roller-coaster.

I think my mum will be screaming.

When she finds out,
she'll be so happy.

She was like, "I think this one's
going to be good.

"I've got a feeling."
And she was right.

So always listen to your mum.

Next time...

This is all going to be...
MIA CHIRPS

...we're celebrating West Africa.
Very exciting.

The sewers learn about
a Ghanaian smock...

Never seen a Batakari before.
Or heard of one.

...get daring with Nigerian
adire cloth...

Do you think they'll mind that her
bottom's hanging out? I like it.

...and hit the catwalk with
boubou-inspired creations...

Yeah! It's like a glamorous sofa!

...for a special guest judge.

It's perfect. I really love this.