02x05 - Ham

[bunniefuu]

This is a transformation that
goes through four seasons of the year.


It's the primitive means of storage
and preservation done by humans.


Now, it became a means
to condense the natural flavor.


There's an abundant accumulation
of water vapor

and warm sunlight in the highlands.

Different geographical environments
and complicated climate changes


are qualities in Yunnan that became
helpers in achieving its flavors.


Xuanwei is one of China's
most famous areas for ham production.

YUNNAN, XUANWEI
Zuo Kun, the ham master,

needs to choose ,
high-quality hams for the factory.

One-year-old Xuanhe pigs

have fine muscles
and even fat distribution.

They're very popular in the market.
YUNNAN NU RIVER, LAOWO

Seven hundred kilometers away,
the residents of Laowo


in the southern mountainous region
of the Nu River Gorge

are also preparing hams for the New Year.
XU XIONGJUN

Today is the day Xu Xiongjun's family
kills the pig for the New Year.


He was last year's champion
for the Laowo Ham Competition.


As compared
to Zuo Kun's factory production,


Xu Xiongjun's family can only produce
around ten hams per year


from highland Iberian pigs
that they raise themselves.


Since the altitude is almost



the Iberian pigs grow at a slower rate
and are smaller.

LAOWO HAM, XUANWEI HAM

In China's villages,
k*lling pigs for New Year is a tradition

where you invite family and friends over,

symbolizing that the year
is coming to an end.


Xu Xiongjun doesn't dare
to drink too much.


Another more important thing
is waiting for him.

In creating high-quality ham,

aside from the careful selection
of ingredients,

it requires a key step.

Humans accidentally discovered

the use of salt to preserve the meat



Repeatedly massaging the meat
won't destroy the fibers of the pork.


Instead, it would let the salt
seep in evenly.

After it slowly gets dehydrated,

the muscle tissues slowly become firmer

and lessens the growth of bacteria.

This is key to the flavor formation
and long-term storage of hams.

After a simple preservation process,

the ham needs to remove all its impurities

and meditate with the help
of microorganisms.

YUNNAN, XUANWEI

Continental air mass
makes Xuanwei's winter


low in temperature with not much rain
and just the right humidity.

With sufficient sunlight in the highlands,

it properly air-dries
the moisture in the meat.

After five months,

the salted hams produce
powder-like molds on their surfaces.


This is a sign that the hams
are properly preserved.


Internally, the hams are also
undergoing major changes.


Yeast breaks down the proteins
into amino acids.


After the decomposition
of unsaturated fats,


it gives off a complex fragrance
that's indescribable.


Minor changes in the weather
will leave its tracks in the hams' flavor.

Zuo Kun needs to constantly check

and adjust the humidity
in the conditioning chamber


to ensure that the resulting flavor
is as expected.

The fermentation process of hams is slow.

After months,
it's finally time to verify the results.

In order to judge the quality of the ham,

Zuo Kun only needs one simple tool.

A needle made from pork bones

is inserted into three areas
where the meat is more succulent.

After removing the needle,

press firmly on the hole at once
in order to prevent air from going in.

From the fragrance on the needle,

Zuo Kun is able to tell
if the ham is already mature.

With fats as white as snow and juicy meat,

it presents a marble-like texture.

Slicing the ham and steaming it

preserves its freshness,
fragrance and flavor the most.

STEAMED HAM
Dicing it and steaming it with egg

makes it soft, smooth, fresh and tasty.

As a pastry filling, it's soft and moist.

It's a unique snack
among Yunnan residents.

HAM MOONCAKE

Zuo Kun and his family's favorite
is a different kind of flavor.


Fats are evenly distributed
in the middle bottom portion of the ham

with just the right amount of saltiness.

Without adding any other ingredients,
cook it in water for three hours.


The ham is soft, chewy,
and thoroughly cooked.


The fragrant smell
comes with a rich flavor.

Just slice it and it's ready to eat.

This is the most heart-warming meal
in an ordinary home.

BOILED HAM
The meat is tender and chewy.

This is the gift Zuo Kun saved
for himself as well as his family.

YUNNAN NU RIVER, LAOWO
Located in the mountainous area,

Xu Xiongjun's ham is not yet ready.

Laowo's winter is very humid,
which might result in the hams' spoilage.


However, in his hands,
everything is under control.

XU XIONGJUN
This is where the secret lies.

While the smoke on the stove area
expels water vapors,


it also promotes
the seepage of salt evenly.

Spending all four seasons in smoke,

the flavor is formed soundlessly.

Together with the oily substances
on the hams' surfaces,


it forms a strong and dense
protective layer,


which stops the growth of bacteria
while maintaining the moisture inside.


Because of this, smoked Laowo hams
have a softer texture

as compared to air-dried Xuanwei hams.

Just press lightly
and the oil would ooze out.


The way Xu Xiongjun checks the quality
of the ham is different from Zuo Kun's

and it is even simpler.
It's not good if the sound is loud.
It's good if the sound is soft.

Mature Laowo hams
have fats that look almost transparent,

with thin extensions in the ruddy meat.

They're so soft and tender.
COLD HAM CUTS

Slice the ham into cold cuts
after boiling it.


The fat is abundant and the meat is thick
which is very delicious.

PORK CARPACCIO WITH BLACK TRUFFLE SAUCE

Eat it raw and dip it
in Yunnan black truffle sauce.


With tiny shreds of fat in the meat,
the flavor lingers in your mouth.

HAM WITH MIXED VEGETABLE STEW

Cooked with various types of vegetables,
it's a dish and also a soup.


This simple yet abundant way of eating
is popular in Yunnan.


Xu Xiongjun loves
the middle part of the ham


with perfect percent lean meat
and percent fat proportion.

Once the ham is made,

he'll get this portion
and share it with his wife.


Cut a big slice and directly fry it
on the pan

without any other ingredients.
FRIED CHINESE STYLE

Using the time
to produce flavor is a skill.


It's also a condiment for the simple life
in the mountains.


Different natural geography,
water, and weather conditions


produce amazing changes
in the ingredients,


making every mountain in Yunnan
develops unique ham flavors.

However, regardless of the flavor,

it's the product of time, environment,
and human wisdom.