01x03 - A Rival to Balenciaga

[bunniefuu]

"Balenciaga is the master of us all".

Christian Dior

This series is inspired by the thirty

years Cristóbal Balenciaga spent in Paris,

from his beginnings

to becoming the king of haute couture.

IN THE PREVIOUS CHAPTER

PRUDENCE: I'd like to talk about

the Nazis' arrival in Paris.

It was about survival.

(IN FRENCH) Without fabrics,

there's no fashion.

(IN SPANISH) We could bring

the fabric from Spain.

You can get a visa.

(IN FRENCH) Come with me, please.

Who is Wladzio D'Attainville?

He's your business partner?

CRISTÓBAL: That's it.

INSPECTOR: He's more than that, right?

WLADZIO (IN SPANISH): Parisian designers

have slowed down.

For example, the waist.

Why is it always here?

(IN EUSKERA) Mom, we can't abandon

Nicolás and Virgilia.

BIZKARRONDO: Maison Balenciaga

is sanctioned

for inciting rebellion

through provocative hats.

VIRGILIA: We have no other option

besides staying open.

We can't go back to Spain.

VOICE ON RADIO: Paris free.

(HAPPY SHOUTS AND APPLAUSE)

MAN (IN FRENCH): To bring the creations

of its designers overseas

FRENCH FASHION

Paris has created 180 ambassadors,

180 iron and plaster dolls,

whose mission is to expand the horizons

of the Place Vendôme

and the Champs-Élysées.

(SOFT MUSIC)

In a few weeks, in New York

PARIS 1945

FASHION THEATER

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

(IN FRENCH) So,

what do you think, Cristóbal?

You've done a great job, Lucien.

I'm glad you like it.

It's going well.

They've commissioned more exhibitions,

in London,

Copenhagen and Barcelona.

It's time for French high fashion

to regain its glory.

Let me introduce you

to Mr. Dior. Christian

Mr. Balenciaga.

Christian is one of my new recruits.

Nice to meet you.

I think I've seen you before.

I worked with Piquet before the w*r.

Nice to meet you, Mr. Balenciaga.

He likes your dresses most of all.

Right, Christian?

- They're incredible.

- I'm glad to hear that.

It was a pleasure. If you'll excuse me

Forgive him.

He really admires you.

That's why he's shy.

He doesn't seem very shy.

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

CHRISTMAS 1946

GETARIA

(SEAGULLS CAWING)

PRIEST (IN BASQUE):

Cristóbal, it's been a long time.

CRISTÓBAL: Yes.

- PRIEST: How are you?

- CRISTÓBAL: I'm well.

For the services in honor of my mother.

PRIEST: Of course.

We'll pray for her and all of you.

I'm sure she's watching from the sky

and she's happy to see

that you still gather for Christmas.

NOVEMBER 8, 1906 AT 44

APRIL 3, 1944 AT 81

Excuse me for a second.

(IN SPANISH) Excuse me.

Did you want something?

(IN BASQUE) He's with me.

Oh, he's your friend.

I didn't recognize him.

He's my partner, yes.

I'll send Felisa and Inés to Paris

for the next collection.

Yes, please.

Felipe will start working with us

after Christmas.

(IN SPANISH) So? Excited?

FELIPE: Yes, of course.

- Very well.

- JUAN: Starting from scratch,

- like everyone else.

- Of course.

JUAN: And you start getting ready.

Yes, you'll have to take over

for me, right?

It's a challenge,

your father set the standards too high.

- WOMAN: That's true.

- (LAUGHTER)

(TRAIN CHUGGING)

WLADZIO (IN FRENCH): What's on your mind?

(SIGHS)

CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH): Nothing.

Sometimes I think that since Mom died,

my work is better.

Bolder.

I'm almost ashamed of saying this, but

You know how much I loved her.

I am who I am, thanks to her.

What do you think?

Do you think I've improved

since she's gone?

(IN FRENCH) It's possible, yes.

But that's a good thing, right?

(BIRDS SINGING)

WLADZIO (IN SPANISH): I like it,

but have you gone overboard

with the proportions?

You think?

I was thinking of adding

even more volume to the back.

WLADZIO: Maybe.

Don't listen to me too much.

By the way,

there's a new boy in my workshop.

He's from your land.

He's all right, his name is Ramón.

Young, but solid.

- He'll come in handy.

- Why?

WLADZIO: Mitza Bricard is leaving us

to work with Dior.

With Dior?

Christian Dior, the figurine maker?

He's a dressmaker now.

He's cooking up something

with Marcel Boussac.

The one from the cotton business.

They say it's going to be revolutionary.

- (SCOFFS)

- I'm serious.

That's what Marie-Louise Bousquet says.

And where do you hear these things?

You know.

At those parties you don't want to attend.

PRUDENCE: No parties, no press

Why do you insist on not showing yourself?

Well, I'm sharing my life with you now.

I can't have insisted that much.

Mr. Balenciaga,

it took me three years

to get this interview.

In the end, I had to show up

at Chanel's funeral

in a red Balenciaga dress to convince you.

And you haven't even let me

take a picture of you.

I let Paris Match do it

and I always regretted it.

You've always liked to act mysterious.

I've never liked social nonsense,

if that's what you mean.

Did you know some people

even claimed that you didn't exist?

That you were some kind of ghost.

CRISTÓBAL: Whatever.

You know what I think?

That all this mystery is deliberate.

A strategy to sell more dresses.

CRISTÓBAL: But the press made that up.

People like you,

your colleagues, they made it all up.

I guess they needed something to rival

the hurricane Dior, and they invented me.

The Balenciaga mystery.

FEBRUARY 5, 1947- PARIS

MAISON BALENCIAGA

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

(IN FRENCH) Please, while walking

take short steps, don't smile,

and look over the clients' heads.

- FLORETTE: Ms. Dupré.

- DUPRÉ (IN SPANISH): Good morning.

WLADZIO: They're coming, get ready.

Let's go.

(SOFT MUSIC)

FLORETTE: Number one.

(IN FRENCH) Number two.

(IN FRENCH) Number three.

(IN FRENCH) Number six.

(WHISPERING)

WLADZIO: Thank you, go.

Remember, don't smile

and don't look the clients in the eye.

FLORETTE: Number seven.

(IN SPANISH) How it's going?

I don't see much enthusiasm.

(IN FRENCH) Thank you. Let's go.

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

- (KNOCK ON DOOR)

- (IN SPANISH) Yes?

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

- How did it go?

- I'm not alone.

(IN FRENCH) She wanted

to congratulate you in person.

Mr. Balenciaga,

I hadn't seen something

so interesting in a long time.

You keep surprising me.

Your virtuosity is demonstrated

in every showcase.

Please, Carmel, don't go that far.

No, I'm serious.

You're a visionary.

You never choose the easy path,

that's for sure.

Lots of people

won't understand your designs.

But in two seasons,

everyone will be copying you.

Good.

I'm glad you liked it.

It's a great compliment coming from you.

Thank you.

No, thank you.

(CHATTER)

FEBRUARY 12, 1947- PARIS

MAISON DIOR

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

The collections is very important to me,

very innovative.

I've worked on the fabric's flow, its cut,

that's very important.

- And

- Sorry. Christian, excuse me.

This is Miss Snow.

You're a revolutionary, my dear Christian.

such a "New Look."

(CLAPPING)

WLADZIO (IN SPANISH): "The big change

in Paris' Spring collections

is the change in silhouette.

The mind behind this change

and hero of the day is designer Dior."

He's revolutionizing fashion

like Poiret did in his time

and Chanel in hers." (LAUGHS)

"A Parisian taxi driver told our reporter,

'I heard Balenciaga finally has a rival'."

I thought Carmel Snow

liked our collection.

They need to sell magazines

and these things stand out

They call this revolutionary?

It looks like everything else to me.

Wasp waist for the trophy woman.

It reminds me of your designs.

- Mine?

- Yes.

From the last collection.

There could be something, but

You think he's copying you?

No, that's nonsense.

But I don't understand these pictures.

I don't get it.

He's not Errol Flynn.

It's the opposite to what I showcased.

- Did I made a mistake?

- No.

Your designs are much bolder.

But they need some time

CREATION AND EVOLUTION

(TELEPHONE RINGING)

(IN FRENCH) Sir, I just spoke

with Women's Wear Daily,

they want to hear your opinion on Dior.

- What?

- They also called

Tell them I have nothing to say.

Sir, the Duchess of Windsor

just called, remember?

- Five dresses, yes.

- Yes.

She cancelled the fittings for tomorrow.

Is she all right?

She's fine, nothing's happened to her.

But she's not the only one.

What are you saying?

Apparently, some of our clients

think they look better in Dior.

Don't worry, Florette,

he's a one-hit wonder.

They'll come back, trust me.

Good friend of mine

went to one of his shows

and she says it was marvelous.

I mean, incredible,

overnight, just like that.

To think I didn't know about him.

Yes, incredible.

(IN FRENCH) He was

Lelong's figurine maker.

They say he captivated Boussac

and he decided to invest.

But success is not that easy.

He lacks experience.

MAN: Dior, Dior, Dior and more Dior.

He's everywhere.

I don't know, I don't like fashion.

Have a nice day.

(OVERLAPPING CHATTER)

(IN BASQUE) That's the one I want.

Isn't it beautiful, Nicolás?

Won't Cristóbal prefer the one

with pink embroidery?

He'll love the blue one, trust me.

Yes, that's right.

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

BIZKARRONDO: They have too much money.

VIRGILIA: Look, there he is!

He's taller than I thought.

Hey, he looks like you.

What are you saying?

Did he recognize us?

- He's coming this way.

- BIZKARRONDO: You think?

(IN FRENCH) Good evening.

It's a pleasure, I'm Christian Dior.

A pleasure.

Congratulations, it's a great collection.

So elegant, it was beautiful.

Thank you, Mrs. Bizkarrondo.

It's an honor welcoming

the owners of Maison Balenciaga.

I heard you liked the blue one?

You have great taste, it's my favorite.

I hope it doesn't pale

next to your Balenciagas.

- Say hello to Cristóbal for me.

- BIZKARRONDO: Of course.

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

(IN SPANISH) The receipt,

the dress will be here in a week.

They already did Virgilia's fitting.

They aren't cheap,

but not as expensive as ours.

Mendizábal. You used Virgilia's surname,

very well done.

Well.

It was useless, Dior came to greet us.

I told you you'd be recognized.

He'll think we're some cheap spies.

Cristóbal, what's done is done.

So embarrassing, Nicolás.

And what did he say?

BIZKARRONDO: That we have good taste.

And he says hello.

He's a decent man.

And the girls looked beautiful.

Cristóbal, you know

I don't get all of this,

but I really liked what I saw.

You said it, Nicolás, you don't get it.

Stay still, woman, you're not dancing.

- Face me. Face me.

- Come on.

That's it, right?

How does it feel?

Do you like it?

I love it.

Cristóbal, relax. You look nervous.

I just don't understand his success.

Then stop analyzing him

and focus on yourself.

You don't compare.

You're in a different phase.

You've already been where Dior is.

You think you'd be happy

making designs like Dior's?

There's only one thing Dior does better.

What is it?

Communicating.

(KNOCK ON DOOR)

CRISTÓBAL: Yes?

Bettina is here.

- Bettina Ballard?

- Cristóbal! We invited her!

Oh, yes.

Remember?

Yes, yes.

Well, she's dressed in Dior.

She's unbelievable.

(LAUGHTER)

BALENCIAGA (IN FRENCH):

You're all unbelievable.

Did you really think

I'd come dressed in Dior?

I have a sense of protocol, dear.

- It wouldn't have bothered me.

- WLADZIO: Yeah, right.

Five minutes ago he was dismantling

a dress to see how it was made.

Really?

What conclusion did you come to?

He's crazy, crazy!

You wouldn't believe how much fabric

he uses on a single dress.

A déjà vu, nothing new.

If that's what the clients want.

The clients want what the press says.

They're just as important as designers.

Isn't that true, Miss Ballard?

"The customer is always right,"

what does that mean?

In business, whoever pays gets to choose.

We aren't just a business.

BETTINA: Very true.

In your case, we all agree

that your creations, sir,

are works of art.

And with that, let's change the subject.

Don't you think Dior is getting rounder?

- What do you mean rounder?

- I don't know.

The more successful he is,

the more he looks like a market rabbit.

(LAUGHTER)

How did you come up with that?

You're evil.

(LAUGHTER)

He looks fine to me.

(LAUGHTER)

It's true.

A fat rabbit.

BOUSSAC: Page 18.

Balenciaga has very good reviews.

Good, last month it was about us.

Carmel Snow loved our collection.

This isn't good for us.

We have to prove

that you are French fashion.

Understood, Marcel.

Understood.

Fashion was terrible

during the occupation.

Fashion has to return to the right path,

fulfill its role, make women beautiful.

Mold the natural curves of the female body

in a nostalgic trip to elegance.

Very well. From my understanding,

do you intend to promote your brand

in the United States?

Yes, it will be an honor

to represent French fashion

on the other side of the Atlantic.

- Thank you, Mr. Dior.

- Thank you.

(CAMERA FLASHES CLICKING)

TV HOST: A high fashion b*mb.

Skirts get longer,

fashion transform in a flash.

The bodies are stylized,

the skirts get longer.

This revolution has a proper name,

Christian Dior.

The designer

will travel to the United States

(APPLAUSE AND CHEERING)

(IN SPANISH) I can't even go

to the cinema.

Instead of designing dresses,

you'd think he'd discovered

a life-saving vaccine.

BIZKARRONDO: Why is Dior everywhere

and we aren't?

You know, Boussac pulls the strings

Yeah, right.

But regardless of Boussac,

Dior has to respond.

It's a matter of attitude.

I don't know if you understand.

If we say no to the media every time

Cristóbal refuses every time

someone suggests an interview

We have to do something.

HOLIDAY HOTEL - SUMMER 1947

LUCERNA

- WLADZIO: Come on.

- (VIRGILIA LAUGHS)

BIZKARRONDO: Let's go.

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

Come on.

(WHIMPER)

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

- (SIGHS)

- (DOOR OPENS)

(LAUGHTER)

(INDISTINCT CHATTER)

(IN FRENCH) You look like a Dior showcase.

WOMAN: Thanks, did you see him

in the United States?

He's hugely successful there too.

(IN SPANISH) Here too, the unmentionable.

Did you know he released a perfume?

It's called "Miss Dior".

To honor his sister.

She went to a n*zi camp.

Now he comes out with perfumes.

Everything Dior does

vulgarizes our profession.

Marketing and high fashion

don't work together,

our thing is exclusivity.

You have to think

about business too, Cristóbal.

Perfume is a good idea, I think.

We're doing well financially.

Yes, but as a businessman

I must explore new brands.

For the good of the company.

Things change suddenly.

Remember how we did during the occupation.

Sometimes I feel like you only care

about making money.

If you do, then maybe

you should have invested

in other things,

like screws or bowls, for example.

You're saying a dimwit like me

can't understand your work?

I don't have the sensibility for it?

You say that about Dior too.

That he has no depth, only luck.

It might be like that, Cristóbal,

but some of our best clients

have moved to Dior.

And Dior, or fat rabbit, as you call him,

is sweeping the floor with us.

It's exciting

that the Marchioness of Nowhere

was buried in Balenciaga,

but that won't secure

the future of the company.

We can't only dress corpses!

- Look

- No, no.

Listen to Nicolás,

he understands these things.

- BIZKARRONDO: Virgilia.

- VIRGILIA: It's true.

You might not understand other things,

but you understand this.

Cristóbal.

I've always supported you,

but if you only focus in designing,

you'll end up giving in

to the American department stores.

You agree?

(SIGHS)

I thought you liked my designs.

I do, it has nothing to do with that.

It's about communication strategy.

Cristóbal, ignoring the press

doesn't help us.

Being closed off is hurting us.

I can't believe it.

We know each other well, Wladzio.

You know I don't like this.

Brands are tied to a face more than ever.

It's what people buy.

We have a huge advantage there.

You're attractive.

(CRISTÓBAL STUTTERS)

Much more than Dior,

and we should take advantage of it.

Please

(LAUGHS) What's wrong?

You're embarrassed?

Thank you, Wladzio,

but my answer is

that I won't expose myself now.

FLORETTE (IN FRENCH):

That's it for today, ladies.

- We'll continue tomorrow.

- WOMAN: Bye.

- Bye.

- FLORETTE: Bye.

(DOOR CLOSES)

CANCELLED

Hey

(IN FRENCH) Don't snoop around my desk.

Even if you're the boss.

I'm sorry, uh

(SOFT MUSIC)

MAN: Finally, number three.

A fragrance of Cyprus-floral scent.

We need a name.

I've been thinking about it.

- How about "Dix"?

- "Dix"?

- Our maison's number.

- George V Avenue, 10.

(IN SPANISH)

You really thought it through.

It's not too similar

to Chanel Number Five?

No, it's simple, but it works.

I'd add something. An article.

Le Dix. It makes it unique.

WLADZIO (IN FRENCH):

Breathe, try to look happy.

Just try.

Use your hand, as if you were thinking.

Try the other one.

That's it, raise your chin, a little more.

WOMAN: Look at the camera.

(CAMERA CLICKS)

(IN SPANISH) Isn't he attractive?

He's so handsome.

This will be huge.

I look like a vampire.

(LAUGHTER)

BIZKARRONDO: The perfume goes here.

And the name, here Le Dix.

And here what was the slogan?

His creation.

His creation.

It makes it seem like I pissed on it.

- (LAUGHTER)

- CRISTÓBAL: What?

Am I lying?

What are you laughing at?

You liked them too. You look handsome.

CRISTÓBAL: So handsome

- Handsome?

- VIRGILIA: Very much.

(MUTTERS)

(IN FRENCH) Smells new.

Yes, we opened it a week ago.

We'll sell perfumes and accessories here.

Please.

CRISTÓBAL: Interesting.

I want

the green taffeta,

the heavy crepé,

and the patterned organza.

I've been thinking of a new design

and I'd like to use

the pink shantung you showed me.

Remember?

Sorry, Cristóbal. Since you weren't

interested, I offered it to someone else.

- Can I ask who?

- Yes.

But I can't tell you.

Dior bought it, right?

Don't insist, Cristóbal.

I'm sure it was him.

If you're really interested

in that fabric,

they make a similar one in Madrid.

This Asensio guy makes it.

CRISTÓBAL: Spanish fabric.

It's like going back to the occupation.

CARMEL: There are

fantastic fabrics in Spain.

You know that better than anyone.

CRISTÓBAL:

The suppliers are very powerful.

They come, show what they want

and I'm supposed to settle, it's not fair.

Calm down, Cristóbal.

We'll be in Madrid for Christmas,

we can go see Asensio.

Here it is.

Magnificent.

I love it.

I don't know how I let it happen

Next thing I know,

they'll spot me in the street.

Just what I needed.

Cristóbal, relax.

You are very attractive.

Dior must be dying of jealousy.

Don't talk to me about Dior.

He steals my clients, my fabrics,

forces me to do things

I don't want to do

They want me to be someone I'm not.

To be Dior.

Well, you won't get it.

So I should give up

on an interview with you?

(LAUGHS)

You'll have to forgive me, I'm leaving.

I'm going to sleep.

- Good night.

- CARMEL: Good night.

The last one,

or I'll sew everything crooked.

(LAUGHTER)

(SIGHS)

You're so big

Don't be dramatic,

Carmel, that's too much.

I'd never met someone like you.

I'd never felt what I feel right now.

Do you feel the same?

Me?

I'm not sure I understand

Wouldn't you like

to have

some company?

I don't think anyone can put up with me.

I was born to be a spinster.

(LAUGHTER)

A spinster

I find that hard to believe.

Aren't you with Wladzio?

With Wladzio?

You know we're friends,

good friends.

(SIGHS)

(IN SPANISH) Did she leave?

Finally.

She tried to seduce me.

- No

- (LAUGHS)

No.

What did you do?

I told her I'd rather be single.

(LAUGHTER)

(SIGHS)

She asked me if we're together.

Can I stay here

and sleep with you tonight?

I think I drank too much.

Come here.

(SIGHS)

(KISSING)

(SOFT MUSIC)

Why don't you unstitch the back?

Take out the waist.

Like this?

(BIRDS SINGING)

BALENCIAGA - EISA

MADRID - DECEMBER 1948

Felipe, come on. Finish that, he's here.

Come on.

- CRISTÓBAL (IN BASQUE): Juan Martín.

- JUAN: Had a good trip?

CRISTÓBAL: Yes.

(IN SPANISH) Any news here?

No, everything's okay.

- (IN BASQUE) Perfect.

- Tina.

(IN SPANISH) Uncle Cristóbal.

(KISSES)

Wladzio.

(KISSES)

I have some fabrics I think could fit you.

Excuse me, is your partner coming?

He should, he's late.

Start showing them to me.

Of course. Here, please.

CRISTÓBAL: Thank you.

ASENSIO: Come in.

Uncle Cristóbal,

Wladzio is in the hospital.

He was standing and he fell.

(FOOTSTEPS APPROACHING)

Good evening.

Are you relatives

of Wladzio D'Attainville?

CRISTÓBAL: No, I'm a friend.

Do you know if his family is coming?

No, they're in Paris. (COUGHS)

Then I'll tell you.

The patient died.

I'm sorry.

He was fine this morning, what happened?

DOCTOR: He had a stroke.

We did everything we could, but

there was nothing to do.

(CRIES)

(SOBS)

(PANTS)

(SOBBING)

(COUGHS)

(SOBS)

I've been thinking about it.

I can't keep going.

I'm sorry.

Why don't you take some time?

You need to process this emotionally.

Allow yourself to grieve.

Go somewhere, anywhere.

All the time you need.

We can continue without you for some time.

We won't bother you.

It's not about time.

I've had enough of high fashion.

I can't stand this world.

It consumes me.

This is over for me.

I didn't think I could go on without him.

Did you know I almost became a monk?

(LAUGHS) No.

I can't believe it.

It's not a joke.

I almost did.

Oh, sorry.

(SIGHS)

What made you change your mind?

- (IN FRENCH) Hello, Cristóbal.

- Christian, what a surprise.

I'm really sorry about what happened.

It's hard to imagine

what you're going through.

I wanted to talk to you.

Speak, I'm intrigued.

I heard you're considering retirement.

Don't do it, please.

It's good for you, one less rival.

You're wrong.

As you know,

I visited the United States,

the trip was a success.

But, more than the Dior brand,

what they want is to buy French fashion.

They love anything French.

Today, they buy my designs,

tomorrow, they'll buy yours.

If you retire,

international high fashion will lose

a source of ideas and trends.

If you don't believe me,

I am Dior,

thanks to you.

You're the greatest.

I should also add

that I want you to keep going

so Carmel Snow

one day writes that Dior

defeated Balenciaga.

I know she loves you,

and that you follow your own path,

but I'll be there.

And now

what am I supposed to say?

Nothing.

Just think about it.

- See you, Cristóbal.

- See you, Christian.

(MELANCHOLIC MUSIC)

(MUSIC CONTINUES)

(END THEME MUSIC PLAYS)

(MUSIC CONTINUES)