04x01 - Basic Construction

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We are back. We have ten brilliant
home sewers who are ready

to take their hobby
to new heights.

We have a brand-new sewing room

and a beautiful haberdashery

full of every
conceivable fabric.

We also have these mannequins,

who are just waiting -
they're excited -

about being adorned with
the trickiest garments yet.

Britain's army of home sewers
grows bigger every year.

Sewing means everything to me.

I can't imagine a life without it.

I'd be naked,
apart from anything else!

Making it to the sewing room...
Oh!

..has never been harder.

I can't believe I'm here.
It's so exciting.

It was one of my life goals.

I'd like to think I can bring

a little bit of something different
to the sewing room.

Each week,
our passionate amateurs

will be asked to make
three beautiful garments.

I am a perfectionist.
It could be my downfall. Hope not.

Every stitch will be scrutinised
by Savile Row's Patrick Grant.

In my world,
it's all about precision...

the finest materials,
the most beautiful execution...

That's what I want to see
from our sewers.

And from the world of fashion,

film costume maker
and senior lecturer

at the world-renowned Central
Saint Martins School of Fashion,

Esme Young.

I am really looking forward to this.

What I am looking for
from the perfect sewer

is a range of techniques...

and their imagination
and their individuality

coming out in the garments.

I'll probably find it quite hard
not to say what I think.

The competition will begin...

Must remain calm.

..with three demanding tests
of basic construction.

Great(!)

'But who has the discipline
to follow a pattern...'

Why on earth have I done this?

'..the imagination to transform
a garment...'

It's not something I would wear on
a summer's day. You don't know that.

'..and the precision to make
a stunning made-to-measure skirt?'

It's sexy. Is she making you blush?

'And who amongst these
ten new sewers...'

Argh!

'..could go on to win...'

Oh!

'..The Great British Sewing Bee?'

That is date night. Isn't it?
Have you been on my dates?

'The Sewing Bee has moved
south of the river, to Bermondsey,

'the heart of Victorian London's
wool and leather trade.

'Our new sewing room
is a former tannery

'that once supplied clothing
manufacturers across Britain

'and its empire.

'It's about to become
a hive of industry once again.'

A huge welcome to our lovely sewers.

Let me introduce you
to your judges -

Patrick and the fantastic Esme.

They are going to help you
and of course do a bit of judging.

So, sorry about that!
THEY LAUGH

This week is all about
basic construction techniques.

The first challenge
is the pattern challenge.

Esme... Yep.
..what have you got for them?

Here are your patterns.
Can you dish those out to everybody?

OK, what we are doing is a top.

No sleeves, no fastenings - simple.
But there is a catch.

We want you to use a linear
pattern on the bias, and by using

the bias, create a chevron
pattern down the front and the back.

You have got two and a half hours.

Enormous luck...
Your time starts now.

At each Sewing Bee,

the first challenge will test the
sewers' ability to follow a pattern.

I want a nice bold stripe,
I think. I just don't know.

I'm waiting for the fabric
I want to come out at me.

They are free to choose any fabric
they like from the haberdashery,

but it must deliver
the perfect chevron

Patrick and Esme
are looking for.

So this is what you are after,
that chevron. Yes.

All the way down the front and, of
course, all the way down the back.

Esme, what is cutting on the bias?

Cutting on the bias is laying your
pattern at 45 degrees to the grain.

So the grain is where
the stripe is. Got you.

You see? It is not stretching.

If I go like that, it stretches.

So here, they have cut it
on the bias, so the grain is here,

and the bias is here.

The fabric is volatile,
so it takes the shape of the body.

Cutting and sewing
on the bias is tricky.

This is a deceptively
tough challenge.

Can I confirm that you will both
be modelling these?

Absolutely. That's all
I wanted to know. I'm going in. OK.

I don't want to spend too much time
looking and picking

and overthinking it.

So I will just try
and pick one really quick -

something that catches my eye.

Angeline is an events manager

and grew up on her family's
farm in Northern Ireland.

Do you want to go back
and lay some nice eggs?

'I have been sewing
for about ten years.'

My brother bought me a sewing
machine for Christmas one year,

and I remember spending
the whole of Christmas Day

trying to thread it.

I have went for a floral print,

but there are black and white
striped lines.

Bit of stretch in it,
but we should be OK.

Oh, the haberdashery is amazing!
I want it in my house.

That seems perfectly reasonable.

We don't need bedrooms
or anything(!)

Married mum-of-three Charlotte is
an editor of a medical journal,

and her passion has overrun
the family garage.

I love seeing my kids wear
things that I have made.

I made them a set of matching
pyjamas for Christmas,

but I don't think they have all worn
them together since then,

because they're in the wash
at different times,

but they all wore them together
and it was just so cute!

I'm not very good at deciding.

I have got this one,
which is nice and floaty,

but that makes it harder to sew.

Millions of pins and I'll be fine.

With their striped fabric chosen...

Need to get this
just right, actually.

..the sewers need to
work out how best

to cut out their pattern pieces.

Right...

The four pattern pieces -

two for the front,
and two for the back -

are cut at a 45 degree angle

along the bias of the fabric.

When they are joined
together at the centre seam,

the linear pattern should
match perfectly,

forming the chevron
the judges have asked for.

Have you made
a top like this before?

I have never made a top
like this before.

I have done on the bias,
and that sort of...

matching stuff.

71-year-old grandmother of nine
Joyce lives in West Sussex

and is a retired school's
administration officer.

She has been sewing
for almost 60 years.

I get my sewing inspiration from all
sorts of places, and what I have

started doing is taking pictures
in shops on my mobile phone...

if I like something.
Which is a bit cheeky, really.

It worries me that
the fabric is very slippy,

it is going to be difficult
to match. It's volatile.

Well, yes. Well done, you.

I'm going to be honest with you,
Esme used it earlier

and I have stolen it.

So you've just pinched it.
Good thinking.

Whilst cutting on the bias,

every move the sewers make has
the potential to distort the fabric.

You can see I'm shaking.

And distorted fabric will never
match at the centre seams.

I am not used to cutting
fabric on the bias.

If you handle it too much,
then it just sort of grows.

But one sewer has chosen
the most unstable fabric

on offer in the haberdashery.

Oh, hello. Somebody has been brave.

Georgette. Yeah, bit of georgette.

Jamie's georgette
is a fine, slippery fabric

usually reserved for evening wear.

Have you cut on the bias before?

Bits and bobs,
but not a huge amount.

And have you used georgette before?
Once before. And how did that go?

It was tricky.
I will be honest, it was tricky.

BUT...if you're going
to cut on the bias,

might as well use something that
stretches anyway.

Well, good luck...
Thank you. ..with that.

Jamie is from Exeter and gave up
a career in teaching to be

a stay-at-home dad to look
after his deaf son Harry.

You could say that
sewing's in the blood.

Growing up with my nan,

she was hand-sewing
gloves for a local company,

and I grew up with sewing machines
and needles and pins all around me.

This is slightly different to what
I normally do.

Normally, I am at home... I would
have my head in the washing machine.

Well, that's what
I will tell the wife anyway.

To cut on the bias
was on the list to practise.

I didn't think it would be
a first week thing, so... Whoops!

Duncan is a maths tutor.

He began sewing three years ago
and is already making

made-to-measure womenswear
for his friends.

I'll go for a half down on the bum
and then we can see.

'The preparation is the most
important thing for me.

'If you take your time, measure, cut
and make sure that is all

done beautifully, then when you come
to sew, that is fun and easy.

Do you always cut on the floor?
Yeah. Do you?!

Sort of what I am used to.

And have you ever
cut on the bias before? Never.

It is really scary.

I am quite quick with the sewing.
I just always take my time cutting.

OK, take your time,
but not too much... No, no.

..is a big suggestion.

# Be cool, relax... #

Even if the sewers think they have

cut out their first
pieces accurately...

that is only the beginning.

I think the most difficult part
is cutting the pieces

so the stripes match.

To create a perfect
chevron down the centre seam...

Doesn't say. ..their second piece
must have stripes

running in the opposite direction.

Then all the stripes on both
pieces need to meet.

Some of them appear to be matching,

and then some of them
are slightly off.

Seems to be the movement
in the fabric.

Any slipping or
stretching during cutting

and the chevrons that they have
matched will be gone.

My kids would just tell me
to chill out.

They would also tell me
not to go out in the first round.

Position is really
important in this task.

I just want to get them cut,
and then, hopefully,

the sewing will be a doddle.

Rumana lives in East London
and she is a junior doctor.

I have been sewing
since I was probably about seven.

The first thing I ever made was
actually a dress for my Barbie.

My mum had made me
a dress for Eid,

and so I used the scraps of it
to make her a matching one.

I think I made one of my tops
slightly longer than the other,

with all the shifting.

I'm just going to pretend that it
was meant to be that length.

If lining up the chevrons
wasn't tricky enough...

Whoa-whoa-whoa.

..one sewer has made this first
challenge twice as hard.

You are making a chevron
out of a chevron. Yes.

I have given myself a bit of a job,
I have realised.

What we are going to need
is a bit of a square.

It will end up with kind
of a square, and then come down.

And have you cut on the bias before?

Yes, a long time ago.

Mum-of-two Tracey is a retired
primary school teacher

and lives in Derbyshire
with her husband Chris.

Don't you want me to
measure your neck? My fat neck on...

THEY LAUGH

My husband likes me to sew,
but I'm terrible for buying fabric.

I think I am one piece
away from appearing

on a programme
called Hoarders.

It was very strange coming away
and leaving Chris, my husband,

at home last night.
He is perfectly capable of cooking

and looking after himself.
He'll not starve.

He might have to go
to Tesco, though,

and he doesn't like doing that.

Whilst Tracey, Jamie and Joyce
are ready to begin sewing...

Joyce. Yes?

Can I ask for your help
for a moment? Of course you can.

..matching and cutting on the bias
is still proving tricky for some.

What's this? Your front? Yes.

I made one slightly longer
than the other.

I might just trim that off now
before it becomes a headache.

Look, there's your match. Can you
see? You have got your match.

Do you want a hand up? Yes, please.

You all right?

I've done it wrong again.

Every time I cut it out,
I cut it out,

and when I go to place them back
together, the wrong sides match.

Josh plays football
for Cardiff Metropolitan University.

Entirely self-taught,
his sewing skills

are now in constant demand
by his team-mates.

Just a touch more. A touch more?

'When I told the boys that
I had a sewing machine,

'I think at first people laugh.

'But then when we get new
tracksuits, I will get all the boys'

giving me some money to
alter their tracksuits

so it actually fits them.

What are we doing here?

I somehow... I have cut it out the
wrong way, so it doesn't actually...

Two bits the same. Oh, my God.

Yeah? Does that make sense?
So now you have got the chevron.

Where do I match my back...?
I love you for helping.

Shall we get some pins
and cut this puppy? I'm going.

Yes, love you,
thank you so much. Pleasure.

Charlotte, you are
a magnificent woman.

As they sew their pieces together,

all the careful work to match
the chevrons can easily be undone.

If there is any movement
in the fabric either away,

the chevron won't match
when I'm finished.

They have got to be right, otherwise
I will get picked up on it.

Hopefully that has matched.
Has that matched?

I have got the effect
I wanted with this square

along the centre, but further
down, it has gone slightly out here.

So I'm just going to unpick that
last little bit and move it across.

This is the front. I didn't think

I would do it, but I did.

SHE LAUGHS

Jade is from Eastbourne,

and, at just 18, is the
competition's youngest ever sewer.

What colour would you like? Pink.

'I love sewing for my sister,

and then there is the dogs.

Come on, Jessie.

'I have made bandannas
and little tutus.'

Is that a dog on a sewing machine?
Hold on, just look at that.

Jessie. Hello, Jessie.

Who are these individuals?

That's my dad, that is
my little sister Gemma...

They must be so proud of you.
They are.

I think they are.
My little sister, Gemma,

when she knew I was coming up,

she goes,
"So who is going to have your room?"

I was like,
"I'm only going for four days."

I just feel like,
because we are on camera,

should we give Gemma your room now?
No. OK. She's not allowed it!

You have an hour and a half left.
You have had an hour.

Oh, my God. Uhh!
How are you feeling?

Stressed, but, you know,
this is my stressed face.

I'm right in thinking that,

if I then put a seam line down
there, that would be the chevron?

You all right?
Yeah. Well, I'm assuming

I have got it right now.
I just...

Statistically, you have to.

I am hand-basting it all,
to try and line it all up.

It is slow going at the moment.

But it is even slower going
for Ghislaine.

No, it's not it either.

Ghislaine's family
are from Martinique,

and she now works as
an office manager in London.

I love vibrant prints
in my sewing.

When I make things for myself,
every time I make a seam,

I like to try it on
to see if it fits.

And I find it a lot easier to do
that in my underwear.

Gosh, you have given yourself
a heck of a challenge here.

Absolutely.

This is a linear pattern,

but it doesn't have straight edges,

so this black stripe here
is at a different position

to the edge of the
black stripe here.

Exactly. It may NOT line up
on the edge of the sewing line.

I don't think it will. We'd like to
give you a little tip. Yes, please?

Ditch this fabric
and start with something straight.

What have I done to myself?
What have I done?

I mean, we're not telling you
what to do.

OK, one more fabric.
I'm changing fabric.

You're not?!
GHISLAINE LAUGHS

I am! You don't have time!

I-I have. Just grab anything.

OK. Of course you can use that.
I don't like pink and...

It doesn't matter.

OK, OK, OK, OK!
Well, this is madness.

The fabric is more stable, so I am
not going to waste as much time.

Basically, I have got an hour left.

It doesn't bother me that Ghislaine
is using the same fabric as me.

She has obviously got good taste.

Sewers, you have one hour left.

Here we go.

Yes!

CHARLOTTE LAUGHS

That's all right, I am happy now.
I got patterns matching.

You finding it really slippery?

I've got big fat hands,
that's what it is.

On the front. Not my colour,
but it is matched quite well, so...

it was worth spending the time
hand-tacking it all.

There we go, not too bad.

The fabric being
so much more stable,

I don't have to pin so much,
the cutting is a lot easier.

While Ghislaine is finally
making progress...

You've cut and sewn the back, now
you're going back to cutting again.

Yes. ..Rumana's inaccurate cutting
is starting to catch up with her.

It is just so slippery. Yeah.
It just kept moving.

This is the point of this challenge.

These pieces have to all be exactly
the size of the pattern.

Now, none of the three you have cut

are actually the size
of the pattern. Yeah...

I'm just going to restart.

This is the back. Cut the back.
We want the front. Yes. Don't panic.

It is very hard not to panic.

Sorry, we have made you panic. Yes!

We didn't mean to. Please, go.
Right, we will.

Check that one there...

CHARLOTTE GASPS

This is... Ohhh.

The next stage in Esme
and Patrick's pattern...

takes cutting and sewing
on the bias to the next level.

The next instruction says to make
the bias strip that's going to

finish the neckline off.

Many of the garments we wear
have a neckline that is

neatened and reinforced...

with something called bias binding.

Have you put bias binding
on a bias top before? No.

Ohh. OK. Is that going to be fun?

I think so.

First, they need to cut a strip
of fabric on the bias that is

exactly the same
length as the opening for the neck.

"Press the strip lengthways",
done that.

"Wrong sides together", yeah.

"And mark the quarters with pins."

This would go on the back neck.

Then you put it
between the notches.

Now, the really tricky bit here...

The front of the V? Yes.

Between here and here is shorter
than between there and there.

So, if I go like this... Can you
see how that is going all wobbly?

Yes. Because that edge...
Can't you just chop it?

No. OK. You can't just chop it.

You need to ease this in. I see.

Because you need that
length there.

Sewn, to start with, with all
the raw edges together,

so, at the minute,
all the raw edges are there,

and what we're going to do next
is turn that all the way over,

so that you then end up
with a really neat neck edge.

CHARLOTTE SIGHS

I cut my bias binding
on the straight grain

instead of on the bias,
so it doesn't stretch.

Just glad I realised before
trying to sew it on.

Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

RUMANA: OK.

Ahh! That doesn't help.

I have just stitched the neckline.

Feel like I am on the home straight.

Should check this other
armhole is all right.

That's better.

Second time lucky. I hope it doesn't
get to third time lucky.

Then I will be really nervous.

I'm shaking!

I am really far behind
everyone else.

Loads and loads of pressing.

You need an iron more than you
need a sewing machine, really.

Oh, no. I think
my bias binding is too long.

It might have stretched.

Charlotte, what stitch are you using
to neaten the edges

of the armholes? Just zigzagging.
Just a zigzag, yeah?

I'm going to sew
the difference at the back

and then cut it off and hope.

Yes! Just check that
I have a chevron, and I do.

Look at you.
You were done about two hours ago.

TRACEY LAUGHS

Are you happy with it?
Yes, I am. Yes, yes.

It's just a shame it won't fit me.

Jade, how are you doing? Done.

Putting it on? Yeah.
You're done? Yeah.

I have heard a couple of
"I've finished",

which isn't exactly where I am yet.

I'm stitching the binding, but
you can see, it just moves so much.

Sewers, you have got ten minutes.

SHE SIGHS

This is the maddest,
quickest sewing I have ever done.

That'll do.

HE GROANS

I'm trying to do the hems,

because I don't have time to
fix the rest of it.

It's terrible.
It's not great. At all.

One minute left!

I haven't finished an arm, it needs
to be pressed, can I just press it?

Yep. QUICKLY!

Do I have to get rid of all
the threads?

"Do I have to get rid
of all the threads?"

I've never been asked
that before.

It's an idea, I've got
scissors. Pull it off! OK, OK, OK!

Which way is the right way?
I don't...

Armholes are hilarious.
All right, everybody, that is it!

First challenge of the Sewing Bee
is finished.

Give yourselves a round of applause.

It is so bad!
I want to go home. I'm done.

Sewers, please bring your mannequins
forward for the...judgey bit.

# If I had a needle and thread

# Tell you what I'd do... #

'Ten chevron tops cut on the bias
in just two-and-a-half hours.

'But what will Esme and Patrick
make of the first garments

'of this year's Sewing Bee?'

Charlotte, please bring your
lovely chevron girl up.

Now, the thing that I notice
with this, that is matching,

it's slightly out here.

And here. The shoulders are matching
and the back is matching.

The front here is flat,
which is good.

It is sitting pretty nicely.

I think it is
very neatly sewn,

I think the pattern matching
is pretty near spot-on.

Yeah, well done. Thank you.

I was quite worried
about you actually.

Because you used georgette.

This is one of the hardest fabrics
to choose. I would have said so.

It matches really beautifully
all the way down.

Again, matching on the back...

Given what a delicate fabric
this is to work with,

this binding is spot-on.
We are seeing that nice shape.

I think this is a very good
use of the bias on a fabric.

Thank you.

You have put your chevrons
pointing up.

Usually feels more natural

if the pattern follows the general
shape of the garments.

You have run out of time... Yes.
..so the armholes are not finished.

Here, it is really,
really stretched.

Your binding all needs to be
controlled and perfectly hidden.

Have you ever done that before? No.

Well, you will probably try it
again, won't you?

(No, never.) No?
LAUGHTER

Yeah, you're an optimist.
I'm an optimist. Never again.

In terms of matching the pattern,
you have done exceptionally.

You clearly took
a lot of time over that!

The hem is too fat,
so it's hanging down.

The binding on the bank is
narrower here...than here.

Overall, it's neat, it's tidy.

This binding, although it has
stretched a little bit,

it is nearly done.

The matching is pretty good.
Pretty good?

How good does it need to be
to be "good"?

Tiptop.
PATRICK LAUGHS

You had a problem with cutting
it out, didn't you? Yes.

Well, it is going up...
and the back is going down. Yeah.

THEY LAUGH

Fourth time lucky,
it would have been.

SHE CHUCKLES

Fractionally pulled
out of shape here,

but the matching, most of the way
down, is really good.

But where you have
fallen down is on the binding.

Can you see, you've stretched it?
Absolutely. Yes.

You are the only person
that has chosen not

to use a straight pattern.

It gives us this natty sort of...

I don't know why I said "natty"...
Why did I...?

CLAUDIA LAUGHS LOUDLY

What you have given us is this
really lovely kind of

Aztec appearance to the front of it.

The back is not so well matched,
but overall,

I do like your choice of fabric.
And it works. Thank you.

You had a rocky start,
didn't you? Yes.

And you had to get
a new fabric. Yes.

This is matched pretty good.
A little bit off here.

I love how tough you are!

Really near perfect, to me.

You have just stretched it out
a little bit here,

but given that you started
all over again

about an hour into the challenge,

I am amazed that you have
completed it.

Well... In a way, the chevron is
disguised with the roses.

It is kind of mind-boggling,
that is. It is tough to see.

It is matched here...
Let's look at the back.

What do you think, Patrick?

Is it matched or isn't it?
I think it is.

In a way, it is quite clever,
because actually, it doesn't matter.

If it didn't, because it has got
these flowers on,

from a distance,
you wouldn't notice. Mm-hmm.

The Pattern Challenge is ranked.

Patrick and Esme will now
reveal who has

matched their expectations
and whose sewing needs to improve.

In tenth place...

Rumana.
Just wasn't complete.

In ninth place, Josh.

Duncan is eight, Ghislaine seventh,

Joyce sixth, Jade fifth
and Tracey is fourth.

Third place is Angeline.

You did really well. The matching is
good. Well done. Thank you.

So, in second place...

..Charlotte. Beautiful pattern
matching, lovely flat neck.

It was extremely close.
Very well done indeed.

Jamie is number one.

OTHER CONTESTANTS
CHEER AND APPLAUD

And, Jamie,
your matching is fantastic.

You chose a really difficult fabric.
The finishing is great. Well done.

Are you happy? I am very happy!

A huge well done to all of you.
It is now time for a break.

Relax, and we'll see you back
here for my favourite -

the Alteration Challenge.

Well done. Thank you.

# It's a great feeling

# To suddenly find the clouds
are silver-lined... #

I'm a little bit shocked
to come first.

I didn't really expect it.

I cannot believe
I just came second.

I put that top on the mannequin
and thought, "Ugh!"

I think Esme was stricter
than Patrick today,

he was being very kind.

I think I sewed that
top in about 45 minutes altogether.

45 minutes!

I am not really used to
being down the bottom,

but I now want to make sure that
I do better every time,

and I will get better every
time hopefully.

I know they call it
Basic Construction Week,

but I'm pretty sure that's
quite advanced.

Pattern Challenge done

and we have ten beautiful bias-cut
tops to prove it.

But now for something
completely different.

The sewers have to think fast
and sew fast as they revamp

something old and sort of frumpy
into something new and fabulous.

All in just an hour and a half.

It's now time
for the Alteration Challenge.

This week, as we know,
is about basic garment construction,

so they have chosen something
with lots of fabric.

Patrick, will you reveal?

We are giving you...

the maternity dress.

And we would like you to reshape
it into something wearable

that fits this mannequin.

Drape, cut, dart,
use the haberdashery,

add other colours, braids, whatever
you want, be really imaginative.

The brilliant thing is,
they aren't here - no offence.

When they walk in,
they won't know who has done what.

In the nicest possible way, ciao.
Ciao. You can go.

You have 90 minutes.
Blow the judges' minds.

Your time starts...now.

When I had my kids,
I did not wear maternity dresses.

And if I had,
it wouldn't have been one like this.

I'm trying to work out what
I can do, what I can change.

This is the first time
I have ever done anything like.

I have no clue,
I am winging it.

This is their first opportunity to

show us something, really,
about their creative skills.

The whole point of this is to get
away from the shackles

of the pattern and express
something about themselves.

If my students were doing this,
what would absolutely come out

is who they are, where they have
come from, their point of view.

We have got yards of fabric here,

we have got a completely lining
underneath it.

You could take the whole
thing apart,

recut it and create something
absolutely different.

I think I would stick a hole here,
and, you know, play.

The dress that Patrick
and Esme have given them

is made from a basic,
lightweight, woven viscose.

OK. It is easy to shape, and the
sewers' options should be endless.

What are you making? I am making
a pencil skirt.

And do you alter a lot?
Not really.

I'm thinking pencil skirt,
exposed zip, elastic waistband.

I'm going to cut
the skirt from the top

and create a waistband with
this denim.

I want to make a nice,
tight-fitted skirt.

I am hoping to make a skirt,
I'm going to do some pleats,

so then it fits the mannequin.

This is ribbing, it's very stretchy
and quite strong so I'm going

to try and use it as the waistband
for a little miniskirt.

But not everyone's making a skirt.

I've chopped the side seams down,
going to take those in,

I've split the back cos it had
a horrible pleat in there,

I'm going to put a zip in,

and I'm going to pop
a couple of darts in the front,

cut the neckline down and around,
ruche it up

and pop the lining in for the other
side, then stick the skirt back on.

Have you got time to do all of that?
Yeah, if I am quick.

It is going to be a dress,

I am actually
thinking of putting darts in.

And where the darts go,
to add a godet, you know?

Very ambitious.

The godet is a triangular piece
of fabric inserted

into a garment
to create volume.

And it is the other fabric
that I'm going to add on

that I hope makes the garment.

It looked like a dress that could do
some gathering,

so I thought making a waistband
with casing,

then I'm going to put something
through it to gather it.

I'm probably going to shorten
the hem as well,

cos I don't really like how
long it is.

Some lace. Lace, lace, lace.

I'm going to make it into a top with
a zip down the front,

and then use some lace on the collar
and the sleeves.

A nice, white chunky zip.

I don't do much recycling
stuff really.

Bit of experience of making
things bigger.

Sewers, you have one hour left.

Want to prove to the judges that
I can finish a garment.

I'm so scared after what
happened this morning,

just finishing the garment
will be an achievement for me.

I have put in denim side panels.

Sort of done the side seam.

And I'm currently unpicking
the centre back

so that I can put this in.

I'm not happy with the zip, but
I will get on with the rest of it

and see if I can fix it
a little bit later on.

It's quite a chunky zip
cos I want it to be visible.

I don't think I've lifted my head
once to see

what anybody else is doing.

I'm currently making the contrasting
underlap going

underneath the blue.

I have created a waistband and I am
gathering the fabric together.

I'm just trying to finish
up the gathers

so that it's quite evenly
distributed.

This looks so pretty,
your choice of fabrics. I hope so.

Not something I would
wear on a summer's day, but...

You don't know that. Well...
With a glass of white... Exactly.

..a bowl of pistachios,
you might want to throw that on.

I might do after a bottle
or two of red.

Sewers, you've got 30 minutes left

and then the scary couple
will be coming upstairs.

If I get this, the zipper,
in and the back seam done,

then I've a wee bit more time
to play with.

I've just sewn in one
side of my zip.

This might have to be done
a few times,

considering I've only ever done
one of these before.

HE SIGHS
That wasn't very good, was it?

I'm actually enjoying this more
than I thought I would be,

but let's see what it looks
like at the end.

Duncan, I'm just going to be honest
with you, are you doing enough?

Yeah, it is quite simple.

I might make a little neck scarf
if I have time. Make a neck scarf!

I hope the transformation's
big enough.

I mean, I'm going to put
an invisible zip in, as well.

So I decided to
go for a bit of a funky back.

Don't know if that will be enough to
impress the judges.

I'm attaching a deep lace all
the way around the bottom.

That is date night, isn't it?

SHE LAUGHS
Have you been on my dates?

Sewers, you've got ten minutes.

OK, OK, OK.

It's a neck scarf.

I think this will add
a little extra to it.

Oh, gosh, that's a terrible zip.
I've got a lot of puckering here.

I'm just going to iron it
as well as I can.

Five minutes!

I can't get my needle through.

I'm not panicking.

I'm going to attach this,
then, back onto the bodice.

But that'll be OK, I can do that.

30 seconds! Argh!

All right, that's it, time!

Come on, bring them up.

# It must be something
psychological... #

It's judgment time, and Esme and
Patrick will have no idea

whose alteration is whose.

First reactions, please.

There are a lot of skirts. There are
a couple that stand out,

but there are a few for me
that seem to be lacking

a little bit of wow.

I'm really disappointed.

I was so excited about this,
but look at those skirts.

I mean, look at that skirt!

Not only is it not very adventurous,
it's just not very well done.

Are you trying to make it fit?

Yes! I'm trying my best.
Have you succeeded? No.

We've got another skirt.

They haven't gathered it evenly,

they've put a little
pleat in the back.

The depth of it is relatively even.

They've made a little neckerchief,

obviously had a bit of spare
time at the end there.

I'd have rather have seen the time
put into doing something

a little more adventurous
on the skirt.

Another gathered skirt.
And a waistband.

In 90 minutes, I would have expected
something considerably punchier.

Another skirt.

The waistband doesn't fit very well,
it should have been shaped.

It's a fairly simple
A-line-ish skirt.

Well, this seems to be the rage.
It fits the stand quite well.

Well, that is true.
It just lacks wow.

It's a skirt. Yep.

Do you think this bow
has been made from scratch?

Yeah, it must have been.

It is a good combination of fabrics
and colours. Yeah.

They all work harmoniously.
I quite like it.

This person has put
a bit of elastic on the waist.

There is a lot of reshaping
in the back here.

I like the blue and the orange.
I do, too. It's simple.

I think it's quite striking.
It's wearable and it's different.

It is wearable, yeah.
I quite like it.

This person tried to be experimental
and play with the fabric.

They've used a lot of different
techniques. They've draped,

they've tucked. Yup.
They've inserted a zip.

The lining has been used to
extend the length,

which I think is really very clever.

What we asked for was
a bold statement.

And this is bold, all right.

This has had godets put into it.

It's quite hard to sew a godet,
but they've done that quite neatly.

Obviously, it has a lot more shape
through the waist

and it's been shaped
through the back.

At least it's shown
some adventure. Yes.

I'm not a great fan of lace.

The overall shape hasn't changed,
really, very much at all.

And that zip's too long.

I mean, just make it at the right
length and finish it correctly.

They haven't been clear enough or
bold enough about it. Yeah.

So who's shown the imagination
and skill to transform a garment?

In tenth place,

it is the lace-trimmed tabard.

Up you come, Tracey!

I thought it was quite flouncy.

I mean, it is flouncy,
that's for sure. That's for sure.

In ninth place,

this one, with the
grey inserted side panels.

That doesn't, to me,
in skirt form, say you.

Duncan is eighth,

Josh seventh,

Ghislaine sixth,

Charlotte fifth,

and in fourth place is Angeline.

In third place is this
blue and orange dress.

It's quite striking.

In second place...

It's the sequinned insertions.

It was a bold idea, it's got impact.

Overall, I think it's an excellent
piece of work, so well done.

In first place is this one.

THEY CLAP
Come on, Jamie!

You were bold, you tried to do a bit
of draping,

you used the lining,
you really took on the challenge.

It's not to show us
how technically competent you are,

it's about your ability to imagine
clothes. Thank you so much.

That's the end of your first
day on Sewing Bee.

Go home, we'll see you
tomorrow for the big challenge.

Jamie's flying. I thought it was
all going to go wrong. Aw, give off!

Today has taught me
I can loosen up a little bit.

I guess I was a bit brave,

braver than I would be in my own
sewing room.

I came second.
I would rather have come first.

I wasn't quite happy
with my final outcome.

It isn't as outrageous as me,
in a way.

That challenge was horrible.

Just one challenge remains before
one sewer is awarded

Garment of the Week, and someone is
asked to leave the sewing room.

Jamie came first twice.

The way that he handled that very
difficult georgette,

was really fantastic.

Angeline did
well on the alteration challenge.

I liked her selection of colours.

Charlotte came
second in the chevron challenge.

She was kind of panicking with
the cutting out,

but actually
she matched it really well.

Do you have an inkling about who
might be leaving?

Duncan definitely struggled
with his finishing.

Rumana, I think, perhaps nerves got
the better of her

in the first challenge.
Yeah, I agree.

Josh, had he just finished off those
armholes, I think he'd have finished

quite a lot further up,

and I think Tracey's
in that mix, as well.

For each week's final challenge,
there will be no mannequins.

The sewers will be making clothes
that must fit a real person.

All right? Nice to meet you.

Welcome back, sewers. For your
first made-to-measure challenge,

the judges would like you
to make skirts.

You can make mini, maxi,
anything you like,

but the fit has to be perfect.

You have five hours. Enormous luck.

Your time starts now.

All right, must remain calm.

This is the second skirt I've
made in my entire life.

For the made-to-measure challenge,
the sewers have had a chance

to practise at home with their
chosen pattern.

Does that feel too tight?
No, that feels OK, actually.

But now, for the first time,
they'll be working

with their chosen fabric and must
fit their skirt to their model.

Isn't a skirt quite simple,
cos that's just about the waist?

The waist is very important,

but they might have a
tight-fitting skirt.

What I'm really intrigued to see
is at what point

they start trying it on the model.

If you were doing this challenge,

how many times, then, would you be
holding it up to the model?

How many measurements
would you take?

I wouldn't hold it up,
I'd put it on the model and pin it.

We're also going to see
whether they understand fabric,

as well as
whether they understand fit.

Once the sewers have
measured their models... Perfect.

..they'll need to adjust the size
of their standard pattern piece...

Right, let's do some cutting.

..and cut their fabric to the new
measurements for a perfect fit.

I've chosen this taffeta.
It's got a nice body to it.

It's quite swishy and sticky-outy,
and it's going to have a

bit of a petticoat underneath,
so it's going to be quite '50s-ish.

Charlotte's 1950s
three-quarter-length circle skirt

will have a high waistband. I've got
everything down to the minute.

I've got 20 minutes to cut it out
and I'm already 15 minutes into that

and I've cut one bit.

So I'm doing a circle skirt,
so the main fabric is 100% silk,

but it's actually not too bad
to work with.

And I just think all these little
petals give it really nice movement.

Duncan's silk petal skirt

will be lined on the inside

and will have a ribbed,
stretch cotton waistband.

I think these petals, they're
catching on pins,

so I've just really taken the time
to make sure I don't snag it.

My thoughts for this fabric was
quite summery.

Me and my friends always go to the
races in the summer,

a big day out, and I love
the thought of girls going to the

races in nice, long skirts.

Josh is using stretch denim

to make a flared skirt,

which is fitted to a yoked waist.

There should be one more piece.

I can't find the back
waistband piece.

No, it's not here.

The plan was to cut it all out
and sew it together,

and now I'm probably going
to have to construct

one of my pattern pieces
by guessing.

While Josh's lost pattern piece has
just made his skirt

even harder to make...

I'm going to have to draft one.

..one sewer has risked self-drafting
all their pattern pieces.

I don't do lots of
self-drafted patterns,

but when you want the perfect fit,
sometimes it is best.

Jade's making a
high-waisted tutu skirt,

with two contrasting net fabrics.

It'll be fastened with
an oversized metal zip.

And that's going to be exposed?
Yeah, that's going to be exposed.

You're going to see that
down the centre back. OK.

The first thing that I want to do is
just cut the waistband out,

because this is the most
crucial part.

And are you boning this? I am.

Jade's waistband is so large,

she needs to support it with thin
lengths of plastic called boning.

It kind of gives more shape, so it
actually fits into your curves.

How are you going to sew it in?

What I'll do is I'll
sew into the seam, so hopefully

if I get it in-between the seams,
you won't be able to see...

OK, so you've obviously done
boning before.

Yeah, I made my prom dress,
so I had to have boning in it.

It's actually a pattern
I found online,

and it's actually a combination of
an apron pattern and a self-drafted

kind of pattern, where I'm just
going to add in my own tweaks to it.

Rumana's full-length gathered skirt

will have a Japanese obi-style

wraparound waistband.

That sits quite high
on the waist, it's high-waisted,

and then you've got these ties that
come off and go round again,

so I'm just matching the end
of the waistband with the tie.

This is the fiddliest bit.

Once I get this done, I can make
sure it fits and then carry on.

Right, missus, let's do this.

Angeline has already finished
cutting out,

allowing her to begin
pinning on her model.

I do make a lot of clothes
for my friends,

so I'm used to making for other
people. I think this will be fine.

She's making a tight-fitting pencil
skirt with a gathered peplum

and contrasting piped trim.

You can go, missus.

I'd like to impress Esme, especially
after the alteration comments.

I know what they're looking for now,

so that gives me the opportunity,
then, to just go mad.

Oopsy-daisy. Can you just hold
it there? Yeah.

Wiggle as best you can.

I'm going to try
and avoid sticking pins in you.

Before any seams are sewn...

I can see where
I need to pull it in a little bit.

..the sewers should take the time to
check their cut pattern pieces

against their model.

Oh, gosh, that looks great.

Ghislaine is making
a wraparound skirt,

gathered with box pleats

and a bow fastening.

I've done my waistband
already with my bow,

and then I'm going to attach
the whole thing

and I've got three metres
of hand-stitched hem to do.

How're you doing, Tracey?

All right, I'm starting to put
the waistband on.

So it should come round like that

and then tuck in into a really nice
pleat, like this.

Right, turn round again.

The fitting of the waistband is
the most important thing,

purely because that's the only
part that is going to be slick

and fitted to the model's body.

I'm just going to look at it
from a distance.

If you don't get this bit right,
it's pretty pointless

doing the skirt. Turn round.

Brilliant.

SEWING MACHINE WHIRS
I haven't done any fitting yet.

I'm just waiting to do my zip,
so then I get this big rectangle

and I can just gather the top
to fit her properly.

Small, little bits that
had to be taken in,

but otherwise I've
actually drawn it OK.

While Jade's self-drafted waistband
is ready for boning,

it's the moment of truth for
Josh's guesswork.

I lost the pattern piece
and I just had to guess.

I just want to get it
to fit correctly.

I think that's a little bit too
loose here, isn't it? Yeah.

So I'm going to bring it in just
a little bit up there,

so we want about half an inch again.

Is that all right there?
Yeah, that feels good.

The waistband fits brilliant.

I've never fitted to a model before,
and I just hope it doesn't show.

Even if they're happy
with their first fittings...

OK, I think we're good.

..some of the sewers have chosen to
make this first made-to-measure

challenge even harder.

Am I being brave working
with chiffon?

Probably, or stupid, one of the two.

Jamie is going to apply

a flounce, made of delicate
chiffon, to the front of his skirt.

The kind of style I would like to
wear if I was going to wear a skirt,

I guess.

He's hoping his flounce will add
a feature to his classic

A-line skirt.

I've got to say,
I don't love a flounce, but...

I'm looking forward to seeing this
garment because the colours

work really well and there's a
beautiful lightness to all of this.

So you'll have hemmed that?
Yes, rolled hem.

That's going to show us
some fine skills,

if you can do a nice, neat
rolled hem on that one.

Why do I open my mouth?
THEY LAUGH

Done that bit.
Tracey is also taking a risk.

She's the only sewer
attempting pockets.

So it kind of goes there.

Waistband's here, and then the front
of the skirt will come there,

so you'll actually see this
part of the design.

Tracey's making a woollen
circle skirt,

with front hip pockets.

The trickiest bit is
the trim on the pocket,

cos it'll be a pleat on the bias,
which is a bit fiddly.

It's actually called
a pleating board.

It's just made out of lining paper
and card, it's nothing fancy.

So that will then curve along the
edge of the pocket, like that.

This is the first godet that's gone
in and I've got another...

..seven to do.

Joyce is the only sewer attempting
a multi-panelled skirt.

Eight godets, cut from stretch
jersey fabric,

should give the skirt volume.

How many different bits have
you had to cut out?

One, two, three, four, five, six,

seven, eight, nine, ten,

11, 12. 12!

Look, at the moment, we're there.

So that's your skirt so far? Yes.

I don't want anyone to panic,
but how long have you got?

Sewers, you have one hour left!

It will go like that.

Oh, great.

My rolled hem is on a curve,
so that makes it even more tricky.

And this beautiful chiffon
slips all over the place.

I am attaching my bias binding,
and I have got this much to go.

So that's the finished effect
on the pocket.

So, happy with that.

All my threads keep snapping

when I'm trying to do
my gathering stitch.

This is the peplum.

I love the effect that it gives at
the bottom, that curved appearance.

OK, I'm just going to have a look
and see if it's currently even.

It is.

I'm just doing a double hem,
where you fold the fabric up once

and then you fold it over again,

so all the raw edges
are concealed on the inside.

We could really carefully try
this on,

just make sure it's not madly off.

This is my fear.

Turn round, please.

I have just added bias bind
around the hem.

Because I'm trying to take out
the blue in this fabric,

I have the blue piping,

and then the blue bias bind
will just finish it off.

Boys and girls, 20 minutes!

Yes, I am drowning in a lot of net.

Keep calm and sew on.

# Soon I will be done with the
troubles of the world

# Soon I will be done with
the troubles of the skirt. #

Good, good, good.

With a good press... Yeah.
..I'm happy.

Oh, that's dangerous.
HE SIGHS

I am very roughly evening
up the hammer.

The sort of look-and-chop approach
to hemming.

Five minutes, everybody!
Five minutes.

You're done.

Oh, God, this is mad, this is mad.

I've just got a horrible
crease in this bit.

God, actually, could you take it off
for a second?

Duncan, you all right? I need to
turn it and stitch it, I think.

I'm just really hoping this fits.
Sorry.

OK...
HE SIGHS

That's lovely. Yeah, really good.

SHE SIGHS

This is so ropey.

Oh, God, everyone has made such
amazing things.

Yeah, get yourself tucked
in nice and good.

Right, Duncan... I know, I know.
..you have one minute.

OK. OK.

OK, your time is up!

THEY CLAP

Well done.

I'll drink my tea now.

I'm sorry they didn't put
a drop of whisky in it, frankly,

but there we go.

You're going to show your beautiful
creations to the judges

and then they're going to choose
Garment of the Week. Yay!

And ask somebody to leave, but let's
not make a fuss about that.

# I'm all dressed up
with a broken heart...#

Ten skirts, made to measure from
scratch in just five hours.

First impressions?

I think it fits really
well under her arse.

That was the intention.
LAUGHTER

It's sexy. Is she making you blush?
SHE LAUGHS

No, it is, it's a great fit.

It's absolutely fitted, to the point
that it flares out with that peplum.

The height of that waistband,
just the overall balance of it,

is really nice.

And the blues are really well
matched in the print

and the piping
and the bias at the bottom.

I think it's a knockout.

That wide waistband, I really like.

I think the depth of that
band is spot-on.

And you've matched it here,
haven't you? Yeah.

I think these seams could've been
a little bit better pressed,

and then almost you
wouldn't see the join.

I was very intrigued with the idea
of turning an apron into a skirt

and doing the wrapping.

I think that works really well.

First thing to say is that it
moves really well.

The waist looks like a good fit.

In one way, it works fabulously,
the fabric,

it's got that weight to it
and it moves,

but we can't see the cut
of your skirt.

The overall effect is really good.

My only criticism would be,
this is a light, light fabric

and it's going to wrinkle like mad.

All of this pleating,
it really needs a solid press.

I'm really intrigued to see
your pockets with the pleating.

That's worked, hasn't it?

There's too much fabric here.
You haven't moved it round evenly.

There is a rise and fall
in that bottom hem.

The big difficulty
with a circle skirt

is keeping it level
all the way round.

I love your spotty flock fabric.

I also like the fact that you've
lined your spots

up right down the centre front,
which I think is really important.

But you haven't on the back,
have you?

And it really, really jumps
out at you.

First things first,
shall we talk about the fit?

Shall we talk about the flounce,
cos it hits me in the eye?

It's a very, very difficult
thing to do,

to roll a hem on such
a delicate fabric.

It's a bit lumpy and bumpy.

I think it's a very good fit there,
it's a good fit on the seat.

My big thing is just the point
at which this flounce finishes.

I think it would have been
way better

if it had gone all the way round.

It's almost like you've got a front
and then a different back.

Very fair comment.

The overall impression is fantastic.
Yes.

What I particularly like
is the way the grey and the black

are showing through one another.

The silver highlights the edge.
That works well.

The way that you've balanced
the silver of the binding

with the chunky, oversized metal
zip, I think shows, A - confidence,

and, B - a thought about the
coherence of the whole thing.

You've shown your style
and your personality

in this skirt, definitely.
Thank you.

I think this fabric is
really pretty.

I think it does work, but where
I am a little concerned,

it is a bit loose on the waist.
Yeah.

Can you see how it's jutting
out like that?

If it had been shaped, it would
have sat closer to the body.

The major thing, I think,
is the uneven hem.

You did it quickly and you did it
freehand, you've just got to make

sure it's absolutely perfect,
cos these things matter.

I think it's not the most
complicated skirt,

but you've ex*cuted it
extremely well.

I love the choice of fabric.

Actually,
it's got a bit of stretch in.

And you lost your yoke pattern,
didn't you? Yes.

That's stressful for you, but you
have managed to make it work.

I think the fit's really good.
It's hugging all the way round.

In terms of level, it's near enough
bang on, so very well done on that.

Thank you.

So you all did brilliantly,
a huge well done.

Go and have a group cuddle, and
then, when you come back,

Patrick and Esme will announce
the Garment of the Week, yay,

but then will sadly choose somebody
to leave the Sewing Bee.

I'm not ready to leave. I don't
think anybody wants to leave.

I really want to stay, just to prove
to them that I can finish something.

'I'm just really happy that
I managed to make a skirt.'

The longer I'm here, I'll keep
learning and I hope that

I'll just keep getting better.

I think Josh has probably rescued
himself with what I think is

a really competent piece of sewing.

It fitted well, the hem was great.

Tracey's overall...

I mean, I think we both
agree that we do not love this.

But Duncan's lacked ambition.

And then we placed
Tracey in the middle for this one.

It was pretty well done.

Duncan did a good
job of matching the pattern,

but some of the overall
finish let him down.

This is Tracey's. We've got this
puckering here

and the hem was uneven.

Duncan's, the fabric's pretty,
the hem's very uneven

and he chopped it by eye.

Well, that didn't work.

I think it's tough to
call between the two.

We probably need to have a...
Confab.

First, the judges are going to
reveal their Garment of the Week,

so this is the good bit.

Patrick, reveal.

Our Garment of the Week
this week is...

THEY CHEER

And the reason we chose it was fit,
finish and fabric.

Thank you. Now the horrible bit,

because we've just met you and
we don't want any of you to leave.

The judges have deliberated.

It was not easy, and the first
person leaving the Sewing Bee is...

It's Duncan.
THEY GASP

Sorry! I'm sorry.

It's fine. It's fair.

'Everyone else is just so talented.
I did my best.'

The second challenge,
that's where maybe

I feel that I could have done
something different.

Oh, thanks. You've been brilliant.

It was a difficult decision,
as always.

'It's sad that anybody has to leave

'and nobody wants to be the one who
goes home on the first week,'

but he's done fantastically well
to get this far.

Let me give you a hug.
Oh, thank you.

'I found sending Duncan home
really, really hard.'

If Duncan were one of my students,
I would say, "Sew more,"

cos when you sew, you learn how
a garment is constructed.

You always get better. The more you
do, the better you get at it.

I know that it was the last
challenge for me

that actually secured my place
in the next week.

I'm just so happy that
I did what I did.

I don't want anybody to go home!

Really, really relieved, pleased,

ecstatic, emotional, everything!

Next week, I'm really going to go
for it and really prove

that I've deserved to get
past week one.

'There's incredible sewers
in there,'

so to be awarded Garment of the Week
is overwhelming

and just very humbling.

I'm really proud,

and I know my friends
and family will be proud of me.

I'm slightly disappointed
for them, that's the thing.

But, you know,
it's been so much fun.

On the next Sewing Bee,
the sewers make children's clothes.

There you go, little man.

Patterns go pint-size...

Oh, my God, these cuffs are teensy.

..alterations get slippery...

Come on!

..and they get worked up over wool.
Ooh!

But who will get
Garment of the Week?

The pressure is on.

And who will be the next to leave?
SHE GASPS

This has got to come off.
CLAUDIA SCREAMS