07x07 - Episode 7

[bunniefuu]

It's winter week in the sewing room,
which means warmer outfits,

thicker fabrics, and cosy
costumes for our remaining sewers.

I think this snow's a bit off.

It's parmesan.
I smell like a lasagne.

Welcome to The Great British Sewing
Bee.

Last time...
Give it to me, Joe.

..the sewers reduced,
reused, and recycled.

m*rder at the charity shop.

Raph wowed with patchwork
perfection...

Having a whale of a good time.

..and won his second
garment of the week.

I would put something like this down
the catwalk and be very proud of it.

Some got into a jumble...
Look at this mess.

I'm getting told off. ..but Adeena
was the sixth sewer to leave.

Been absolutely amazing.

Now...
Brr!

..the heating is back on full blast
for winter week...

What more can you add, snow?

..with firewood chopping shirts...

What axe do you use, mate?
Ooh, one with a big handle!

..a chilly wrap battle...

All I'm thinking about is scarf,
scarf, scarf, scarf, scarf.

..and sizzling frocks
for festive partying.

Very, very good indeed.

Who will steam ahead
to the quarterfinal?

I'm so happy. I've never been
so happy in my entire life.

And who will be cast
out into the cold?

Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa!
Defeated.

# You must never do a tango
with an eskimo

# No no no... #

Get in!
I know!

Feels pretty good to be back
here in winter week.

This is the only jumper
I've brought with me.

I knitted this.
Took me like a month.

I was so bored of it by the end!

The challenges are getting harder
and harder as we go along.

Going in with a positive mind,
positive approach.

I am daunted,
but I'm daunted every week.

Brr!

Come forward!

# Never do a tango with an
eskimo... #

A-ha!

# No no no. #

The theme is winter this week,

which is the time of year
when I like to wrap up warm,

turn up the heating, and enjoy
feasting on some stews.

Some of them like to be
called Stuart,

and with us as ever, we have an ice
queen and a total snowflake.

Esme, tell us
about the pattern challenge.

Here you are. Pass them round.

What we've got is a flannel shirt
with a yoke, two piece collar,

and a cuff.

Flannel has been a popular
cold-weather fabric for centuries,

and this particular style is most
associated with lumberjacks

from North America.

In the haberdashery, you will find
an array of checked flannel fabrics.

We want to make sure those patterns
are perfectly matched.

You have four and three quarter
hours for this challenge.

Good luck. Your time starts now.

Durable, soft, and warm,
with a fuzzy finish...

I'm too small!

..flannel is formed from loosely
woven cotton or wool...

I thought flannels were what you
had in the bathroom.

Yeah! Didn't realise
they were a fabric, as well.

..but the looser the weave,
the more it can move and stretch.

It does shift when you're sewing it.

And it's the sewer's choice of check
that will determine how difficult

their shirts will be.

I've chosen this fabric
cos what shouts to me

is the orange stripe the most.

I do like pink.
As we can tell.

It's a very Rebecca print.

I thought, wow, this is pure
standard lumberjack, so...

What axe do you use, mate?

One with a big handle.
Yeah. Big handle.

Plenty of leverage on it.
Yeah. Let's chop up some wood.

First popularised by hardworking
North American woodsmen,

the checked flannel shirt was
originally created in Pennsylvania

in the 1850s by an immigrant
from Liverpool called John Rich.

In the 1990s, it was adopted
as an edgy anti-conformist look

by grunge and hip-hop stars.

And it's remained popular
ever since.

So, the flannel shirt,
a favourite of lumberjacks

and mid-level graphic designers.
Why have you chosen it?

Well, it's an absolutely iconic
piece of clothing.

This is a very tricky challenge.

There are lots of elements
they could get wrong.

Yeah. Easily.

The collar stand, the collar,
and a yoke.

They could get in a real muddle.

It's difficult sewing.

The other tricky element to this is,

of course, matching the pattern.

Now, we would expect them to match
the patterns all the way

across the front,
through the collar and the yoke,

so that there is one central stripe.

Is it a lot to do in the time?

Yeah. Certainly are ramping it up.

Well, that's enough of you two
flannelling on!

SARCASTICALLY: Ha-ha-ha.

I'm quite excited by this.
I've done one before.

I'm wearing one right now.

It's almost like this pattern
challenge has been set for me.

I am a bit concerned. I think it's
because I've done a shirt before.

I know how difficult this is.

They're really testing us today.

It's like being thrown into the deep
end and just being told to swim.

Made up of 17 pieces
of pattern match fabric,

the first step in making the shirt
is to attach two yoke pieces

to strengthen the back,

which is then joined to the front
at the shoulders.

The sleeves are attached,
side seams stitched up,

and then collar, cuffs,

and a button stand are added.

And finally, nine buttons
to finish off the shirt.

Good morning, Serena.
Good morning.

Have you made a man's shirt before?

Yes, but not in four and a half
hours.

It's just a lot to do
and to pattern match as well.

You're Scottish. Yes.

Does that give you an inherent
advantage in matching checks?

No!
No? OK. All right.

Pattern matching.
Really, guys? Really?

I don't pattern match.

Patrick and Esme are expecting
perfectly matched checks

across all the shirt seams.

It's a difficult part.

If you don't pattern match,
it'll stand out a mile.

In order to maintain
the repeat of the check...

Why isn't this matching?

..the pieces must be matched on both
the horizontal and vertical planes.

Got my pattern notches lining up
with the orange stripe.

You need to take the time
to make sure it's properly done.

Got one there, it's out.

Just so difficult, this.

But the smaller the checks, the
harder they are to pattern match.

Quite fiddly to do lots of small,
coloured lines,

cos there's more to match.

There's just so many little checks.

And what I cover there needs to be
the same as what I can see here.

It's so tricky.

Hello, Raph. You've all been cutting
out for about three weeks.

Yeah, I know.
It looks so complicated.

It's stressing me out
just looking at it.

You had a brilliant week last week.
Yeah, last week was great.

But you know, you don't want to go
really high and then suddenly...

Plummet.

Sewers, you've had one hour.
HE GRUNTS

Ooh!

My line is out by a teeny
little bit.

The perfectionist in me
just can't leave it like that.

Whilst Farie slips
back into old habits...

If you get the cutting right,
the sewing should be easy.

..the rest of the sewers
have finished cutting out.

The yoke has got to be done next.

The yoke is the part
of the garment that sits, really,

across the shoulders.

It's the piece from which all
the other elements dangle,

if you like, and it's usually made
of two layers of fabric

that allows you to enclose
a lot of the seams.

So, now I am sandwiching my back
and front pieces

in between the two yokes.

Attaching the yoke is just
the start of the complexity.

Can't remember how to do this.

This is like a real big
jigsaw puzzle.

We have asked them
to construct a yoke

using a technique called
the burrito method.

The burrito method?
This is the outer yoke. Mm-hm.

That's the inner yoke.

What I'm going to do
is take the front

and the back piece of the shirt
together and roll it up...

Mm-hm. ..into a little
burrito inside the yoke.

Sew up across the shoulder seams.

I'm just going to pin it for speed.

OK. And now what we're going to do
is turn it out.

Definitely don't try that with
a burrito at home. Hey, presto.

Ooh.

We have a yoke.

And all of those raw edges

are contained inside the yoke.

So, we're going to need
some guacamole. Yeah.

Nice bottle of Corona.

I've now got to roll the back
and the front towards the yoke,

like rolling up a burrito.

Yeah, so that was there like that,
then you bring this over.

The sewers can't turn
their burritos through

until they've hit their machines...

You just want to catch
the shoulder seams,

then hopefully it doesn't stretch.

..which means stitching
several layers of flannel.

This fabric has a mind of its own.
It goes a bit skew-whiffy.

One slip-up and all their hard work
pattern matching could come undone.

Oh, God.

A little accident happened with...

..this machine.

Ooh, hello.

I'd rather be having a proper
burrito now.

This is the moment of truth.
Hopefully it all lines up.

Please, please, please.

This is the two front pieces,
and then the back.

That's my yoke piece there.

So I'm very happy with that
pattern matching.

Ta-da!

There we go.

The yoke's curved, so you're not
going to get it bang on anyway.

I'm going to say I like that.

I've put a cross in the middle.
I prefer this way.

Maybe they'll be pleased.

So bad. My yoke doesn't match.

I'm just going to go with it.
Can't do anything now.

But Farie's yoke
is nowhere to be seen...

You're still cutting out?
Is that because you made a mistake?

No. Just pattern matching.

You know I don't like
pattern matching. Yeah.

I think I've got a plan.

Cos I'm so far behind,
I'm going to steal Raph's shirt.

What, the one that he's wearing?

Yeah, when you say time's up,

and then I'll just put it
on my mannequin and say it was mine.

Well, you could have mine
if you want.

Whilst the flannel shirt
is a wardrobe staple for men

and women across the globe,

the origins of the fabric can be
traced back much closer to home.

It's thought that wool and flannel
originated in Wales

in the 16th century.

It was durable, it was warm,

and also it was affordable.

But despite its humble beginnings
on the sheep farms of Wales,

flannel played a huge part
in revolutionising the way

we shop today.

All thanks to a man
from a small Welsh town.

During the 19th century,
an enterprising local called

Pryce-Jones saw worldwide potential
in this regional speciality.

In 1860, when the railway arrived,

Pryce-Jones pioneered the world's
first mail order business.

This would really
expand his customer base

and establish him
as the go-to supplier

for quality flannel clothing,
and it became a huge success.

In 1879, he built the Royal Welsh
Warehouse.

This factory in the tiny town
of Newtown

served a quarter of a million
people worldwide.

The business was a huge enterprise,
with its own post office

and three trains packed with flannel
products leaving Newtown every day.

He had many influential important
customers like Florence Nightingale.

He had Queen Victoria as a customer.

She granted him a Royal Warrant.

It was said that Queen Victoria
would wear no other bloomers

than his flannel knickers,

and his great success
was acknowledged in 1887

with a knighthood.

He was the man who set up
mail order for the first time.

That's something that's more
important to us today in 2021

than it's ever been.

Hi, it's me, Kurt Cobain,
and I just wanted to say...

..sewers, you have
one hour remaining.

A state of panic.

I can do this.
Think I've done this yoke.

While Farie tries to catch up
with her yoke,

the rest of the sewers
have completed the main body...

So, I've got sleeves on it there.

..but it's not a shirt
without a collar.

There's four pieces
to this sort of collar.

There's a top collar,
there's the top collar stand,

there's a collar stand,
and there's the under collar.

So, I'm going to stitch around here

and that attaches the collar
stand to the neck edge.

The collar stand makes it go up a
bit before it folds over, basically.

The instructions confuse me.

Ahh! Because I have done
a few of these collars,

I've just skipped a few steps.

We'll find out, anyway,
if I've got it right or not.

You sort of have existing methods in
your head, and sometimes it's hard

to dissuade yourself to do
what you're used to doing.

And that's the undercollar.

So, that goes like this...
I don't know.

I'm going to do it like this...

With my instinct,
and I need to hurry.

The collar is a bit messy,
but I'd like to get finished,

so that's my main thing now.

I just have a little bit of spare
fabric at one end.

I'll just have to go with it.

We're not quitting.
You'll see it on the mannequin.

Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa!

I've just caught my sleeve.

How far behind am I?

Last 30 minutes, sewers!

Oh, my gosh.

Yeah, I'm not doing too well
any more.

I think time is getting
a bit pushed now.

My sleeve cuff done.

From the outside, I'm calm,
but on the inside I'm not.

Hopefully it should be good.

I could do with a win, actually.
I've not had a win yet.

This would be pretty cool.
My first win doing a shirt.

HE LAUGHS

I'm not too happy.

I've done couple of mistakes.

I also need to finish this.

Unfinished garment doesn't set you
in a good place.

Is it going to be ready?
It's not going to have buttons.

No buttons...
No buttons.

It's not going to have a collar.

It's just, you know, just a little
airing. Like a grandad collar.

As in...
Yeah.

Well, I mean,
they are a finished collar.

Yeah, I'm a bit nervous now.

Do we have an idea of time?

15 minutes to go, sewers!

God. Defeated.

Annoyed.
So, buttons.

Now I'm whacking buttons in.

It's going to be hard getting
nine buttons in, I tell you.

Going to be cutting it fine.

Get all of my buttons on,

and then at least
it's a wearable shirt.

So I've gone for wooden buttons
because we're going lumberjack.

Lumberjack has sourced this wood.
He's sourced his own wood.

And he's made these buttons.
Yeah.

Ahh. Can I get some more thread?

Tell you what, if my dad says to me
after this,

"Rebecca, please can I have a
shirt?" The answer will be, "No."

One left after this.

Mm, just not going to finish.
Wherever we get to.

I've done seven.

Number eight.

Nine buttons on.

This is caused enough stress
for, like, one lifetime.

One minute, sewers!
Ahh!

Get those mannequins dressed.

Dress our mannequins, please!

Or whatever you've got...
Waistcoats on mannequins!

The buttons.
I managed to get three on.

Needles up! That is your time.

Disastrous.

I'm not happy. I don't like not
to finish something.

This is no lumberjack.
It is like a grandad collar.

It's quite fashionable, actually.
Oh, yes.

I mean, it's not what
they asked for, but...

# I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK

# I sleep all night
and I work all day

# He's a lumberjack and he's OK

# He sleeps all night
and he works all day... #

Six flannel lumberjack shirts
made from scratch

in just four
and three quarter hours.

It's a veritable forest
of lumberjack shirts, but...

Certainly is.

..I can spot a couple of trees
that might need to be felled.

# He cuts down trees
He eat his lunch

# He goes to the lavatory

# On Wednesdays he goes shopping
and has buttered scones for tea... #

Serena.

First impressions,
it's sitting really very nicely.

I think it's a great
choice of fabric.

It's beautifully matched
down the front.

It's beautifully matched
down the back.

You've even managed to perfectly
line up the edge of the yoke

so that it's one continuous pattern
all the way through.

Collar is sitting beautifully flat,

meeting perfectly in the middle.

It's perfectly symmetrical.
Your points are absolutely on point.

On point!

It could be in a shop.

It's really, really nicely made.

# I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK

# I sleep all night
and I work all day... #

I actually like your choice
of fabric.

But you did have a problem
matching it on the front.

Somehow you've managed to distort
the fabric, so we've got a bit

of a curve happening as it
goes into the front edge there.

Your collar, unfortunately,

it's very untidy.

And the left side is higher.

And I think it's how you did
the top stitch

that's pushed it down.

Rebecca, I really like this
pink gingham.

I think it's really lively
and very wearable.

Let's have a look at the yoke.

I mean, it's not perfect,
but it's not bad.

The edge of the collar should be
at the centre front,

so you've got a huge gap on one side

and a tiny, weeny gap on the other.

Why have you got a smaller
top button?

I'm sure my dad's got some shirts
that have got smaller ones about.

All right.

Well, Raph, I really
like the fabric,

but you've had a few problems,
haven't you?

The buttonholes aren't cut open.

There's a button missing on the top.

Ooh. I found a raw edge.

You have lined the checks up
really nicely on the front.

I quite like that you've given us
a yoke cut on the bias.

I think it's a nice detail.

It's not specifically
what we asked for.

I mean, you're a long way
from finishing, unfortunately.

Give it to me.
Hell, I reckon she's going to.

You haven't finished.
No.

As you're well aware.

But on the front,
it's really well matched.

You've done lots
and lots of really neat,

precise sewing in here.

You've just done about 60%
of the sewing you needed.

We've got no collar, we've got
no buttonholes, no buttons.

It's not finished.
It's not finished.

Well, I like the fabric.

I like the choice of wooden buttons.

I think those look good on there.

Your pattern matching
through the back is great.

The yoke looks nicely constructed.
The collar's sitting well.

But you haven't quite caught
in the seam allowance, though.

Slightly deviated. When you say
you slightly deviated...?

Just slightly. I did about 95%
instruction follow.

OK.

But whose lumberjack shirts
have the judges fallen for?

And whose are for the chop?

In sixth place,
not surprisingly, Farie.

A long way from the finish.
A long way.

In fifth place is Raph,

and I think you know why.
Yeah.

Rebecca is fourth, and Andrew third.

In second place...

Damien.

Overall, pretty neatly done.

First place is Serena.

APPLAUSE

It was immaculately sewn
and immaculately matched.

Really brilliant.
Thank you.

Big compliments.
I'm so happy with how that went.

I think they just
liked my pattern matching.

Especially down the back.
I was so proud of that as well.

When I sewed it then turned it over,
I was like, "Ooh."

Well done, Serena.
Thank you.

Again!
Congrats.

Wow, second, hey?
Slowly creeping up the leader board.

I just went back into my old
habits of trying to be super neat

and super perfect.
We're not doing that again.

Landing on the bottom end of the
class is lighting a fire, so, yeah,

I'm looking forward to what's coming
up and I'll try and do my best.

The sewers aren't out of the
freezing cold woods of winter week

just yet.

I love a transformation.
It's like the story of Cinderella.

And with us, we do have a fairy
godmother, Prince Charming,

and a pumpkin.

To tell us about the challenge,
it's Prince Charming.

Are you ready for a wrap battle?

A wrap battle?

We've got scarves of all
descriptions,

from long, knitted Doctor Who
to short, woven Rupert Bear.

You can choose up to five scarves,

and we want you to make a garment
for an adult of any gender.

We're going to send the judges away

now, so they don't know whose is
whose.

And also so they can climb
into a box of newspaper

and sleep until spring.

Oh, yes, please.
Off you go.

Good luck.

90 minutes for this challenge.
Your time starts now.

Go, go.

# You're as cold as ice... #

Whoops.

Knitted or woven,
printed or plain...

Anyone want some fur?

..the sewers will need to choose
their scarves carefully that

they're going to transform
into eye-catching garments.

Scarves horribly remind me of
English uniforms and Harry Potter.

Did mention scarves this morning.

I thought that would be
a difficult transformation.

And it is.

I'm not a scarf fan. I'd rather
be cold than wear a scarf.

The way they choose colour
and pattern and print

is going to be crucial to whether
this is successful or not.

I'd like any garment they make
to feel very well thought through.

I do like it to have imagination,

but they need to be careful
draping on the stand.

You need to be able to see
what actually is happening.

And to know when to stop.
Exactly.

I think we're just going to
drape as we go.

Going to see what goes
when I put it on the mannequin.

I'm trying to channel Adam.
His draping skills were incredible.

I'm a little bit lost at the moment.

All I'm thinking about is scarf,
scarf, scarf, scarf, scarf.

My design is a top and a skirt.

I've just gathered it there and
I want to do something a bit crazy.

HE LAUGHS

I'm Margaret.
Margaret?

I work in a haberdashery
in Birmingham.

Do you now? Oh, that's lovely.

But I also, um, read palms.

Do you?

I can't work out what the garment
is that you're making there.

It says I'm going to make
a winter dress... Oh.

..for a lady.

So, I've picked scarves
that are colour and white.

Think it's quite a graphic effect.

It's going to be a cardigan.

I might be playing it safe.

It's not a crazy shape,

but they've not asked for something
out of the norm, you know?

Hey, you all right?
Yeah, I'm good. How are you, mate?

Pretty good.
What are you up to?

Made a neck hole in my scarf
and I'm using...

I'm going to put it like a poncho.
Yeah.

Obviously, not as blingy as yours.
You look really cool.

Do I look nice?
Yeah.

I sort of feel too warm and I feel
like my asthma's really flaring up.

So, I think I'm going to go
with making some sort of

gladiator-style top.

It's too short on one side,
basically, for a dress.

I'm thinking of
an animal print-y dress

that says I'm glamorous, stylish,

and that's what I'd like
to think of myself.

Do you want your palm read?
No, thank you.

You sure? I don't think
I want to know my future right now.

You don't want to know your future?
Mm, no.

After the morning I had...

Just need to make sure
I don't mess this up.

Sewers, you've had half your time.

Where's that gone? Really? Half?

Yeah, I'm quite pleased
with the cardigan.

I'm going to step in here,
poking a hole,

so then I can tie this in here.

I think I quite like stripe
and the impact.

We haven't lost it just yet.

Just hoping that I keep it up
and have a good one.

I really quite like the top.

I think in challenges like this,
they want us to be creative.

Feeling like a massive sleeve
on this side

could be quite a chic gladiator.

I might want this -
disguise a modesty.

I think this is a bit
sort of medievally.

So, I just want this poncho
to look sort of nice,

so when you see a lady wearing
this, you'll go, "What a nice lady."

Guess who I am?

Sewers, you've got 30 minutes
remaining!

Scarface.

Scarf f-f-f...face.

Clock is ticking
so I need to get going.

I mean, it's all right. I'm going
to have to do something else,

otherwise I'm going to get
slated for it.

Can't just have it like that.
Um...

This is boning.

I'm going to use it
to construct a big bow.

I wonder if there's any bows
knocking about?

Now we need to put the zip in.

I'm quite excited about this
look actually now.

I'm getting giddy.

I'm now sewing the side panels.

I've extracted this from the scarf.

Here we go. Lovely lady, going out,
you've been picking flowers,

and she's just sticking them
on herself.

They might ask me at the end,
"Why the flowers?"

Why not?

Final ten minutes, sewers!

Slightly panicking.

I didn't realise there was
so little time left now.

I think I might try
and make a belt out of them,

just to add a bit of detail.

Maybe this makes it look even more
gladiator style, actually.

The number of knots is
the number of fights she's been in.

This piece here, I think,
to tie this back together.

Finished?

Not finished. I need to do some
more to it, I think,

but do you know what'd be amazing?
If they come in and it's like,

"I really like the simplicity
of it." Yeah.

Garment of the week.

OK. Good luck with that.

I know, yeah.

So I've just stitched down
the overhang, like a puffball,

cos I just don't want to lose
everything just because it's there.

I mean, how else could I bling it
up?

LAUGHTER

Oh, wow.
Was that good?

Yeah. Amazing.

What you making?
A massive bow for Esme.

They hate big bows, the judges.
I know.

It always goes very badly for people
when they do that. Mm.

What am I doing? I don't know.

I need some bit of bling.

That'll help.

One minute to go, sewers!

Final touches.

I've just had a final
burst of inspiration.

We're just going to put a little
diamante thing right on the end.

I can see this making waves
in the jungle somewhere.

That is one hell of a bow.

Good disguise in Sherwood Forest.

Simple, nice.

Needles up! That is your time.

Yay!

Bring your mannequins forward,
you bunch of nitwits.

# I like knitting
and the simpler arts

# Half a dozen needles
An ounce or two of wool... #

Oh, I like those flowers.

# I'm a little nitwit
knitting all the day... #

Second-hand scarves transformed
into six snugly ensembles

in just 90 minutes...
Judges!

..and Patrick and Esme
have no idea whose is whose.

What do you think?
Ooh. Wow.

It's like a winter wonderland.

# I'm a little nitwit
knitting with a will... #

There is a slight Middle Ages...

Yes, definitely.
..costume-y feel to it. Yes.

Even to the extent that they've put
these really big hand

stitches through the side.

I tell you what else I really like,
this big, fat, fluffy yarn is sewn

through the centre of the scarf,
and they've obviously unpicked it.

They've very much thought
about the colours and the placement.

This is quite saucy.

Look!

Yeah!
It's a top.

So, this is the sleeve - big.

I think the choices of scarf
work really nicely,

both colour and the textures.
Yeah.

Looks a bit medieval.

We have a top.

I really like the colours.

Very graphic.

I mean, it's quite simple in
conception.

You've got one scarf going over
that shoulder, one over that.

Not a huge transformation.

It does still definitely
look like scarves.

So, this is a skirt,

and this is a top.

I like that, actually -
the smocking.

Would you say this was a bow
I see before me?

Either that or a bee taking flight.

I'm not convinced it all
goes together. I agree.

It could be edelweiss.

# Edelweiss, edelweiss... #

The shape of it looks quite Mexican.

It's a poncho shape, yeah.
Yeah.

The whole thing has been created
just with one large scarf.

I just don't quite get what
the jewels, the flowers,

and all of this knit have really
got in common with one another.

It's not much of a transformation,
is it? It's not.

Do you think they had a coffee
break in the middle?

So, we definitely have a dress.

I like the combination of colours.

We've got two animal prints
and we have a zip.

It fits the mannequin
extremely well.

They've put these little tucks here
to make shape for the bust.

They've used a couple
of simple techniques... Yes.

..very judiciously
and the effect is very dramatic.

I agree.
And very wearable.

The judges must now decide
which garments

have warmed their c*ck and which
have left them feeling frosty.

In sixth place

is the edelweiss.

Damien.

It's really just a scarf
folded in half with...

Armholes.
..a hole in the top.

# Edelweiss, edelweiss... #

THEY LAUGH

In fifth place is the yellow,
blue, white striped...

Raph.

We really like the colours, and we
think they work very well together,

but I could take that back
to three scarves very, very quickly.

Thank you.

Serena is in fourth place,
Rebecca is third.

In second place

is the green and brown one.

Andrew.

We really liked how you'd placed the
colours and this cross decoration.

Thank you.

Which means in first place,

it's Farie.

APPLAUSE

Well, there we go.

That's an up and down day,
isn't it? Fantastic.

Such judicious use of detailing to
create something with real impact.

Really fabulous.
Well done.

Thank you so much.

I feel relieved.

Oh, thank you.

Very high highs, very low lows.

There's no consistency there.

Well, second, yeah, that'll do.

Today my creative inspiration
just wasn't there.

Edelweiss!

Wow, I'm in trouble.

So far, I'm doing terribly,

so I'm just hoping that I'll be here
until next week.

# Look out the window
Look out the window

# See the snowflakes fall... #

Just one more challenge left
to wrap up winter week,

and one last chance to secure a
cosy spot in the quarterfinals.

# Look out the window
Look out the window

# Singin' the winter song... #

So, winter week. Has anyone melted
your frozen hearts?

The sewers are now fighting
for a place in the quarterfinal,

and we've stepped up the
difficulty level,

and one or two have found it
particularly challenging.

Farie was so far from finishing.
God, yeah.

That shirt was a test
of their sewing skill

and she fell very short on that.

Raph's pattern challenge,

there were lots going wrong.

And he didn't finish.

I liked his use of colour
in the transformation,

but it just wasn't
enough of a transformation.

How did Damien get on?

Well, Damien's transformation,

how unimaginative is that?

There was only one transformation
that really stood out,

and that was Farie's.

But it still leaves her in danger.

A lot hinges on this made
to measure today. Yeah.

Well, looks like getting into this
quarterfinal is snow joke.

I'm going to get that
printed on a T-shirt.

# See the snow flakes fallin'

# Winter sports are callin'

# It's winter
It's winter time again... #

Good morning.
Hello.

For their final wintry garments...

Welcome to winter week.

..the mannequins are gone,

and the sewers will be
making for their models.

Welcome back, sewers,
and hello again, models.

It's time for the made
to measure challenge.

And this week, the judges would like
you

to make a festive winter
party dress.

The sort of thing that'll add spice
to any festive occasion,

be it a Christmas lunch,
a New Year's Eve party,

or just celebrating
Nan going over on the ice again.

You have five hours for this
challenge and your time starts now.

# So, let's dance... #

Right.
OK, let's get cracking.

The sewers have all had the chance
to practise their winter

party dresses at home...

Sorry if my hands are cold.

..but this is the first time they've
been able to check the fit.

I like to dress up for a party, yes,
especially at Christmas.

And you can express yourself
with a bit of bling.

Ooh, yes.

It's an excuse
just to get dressed up.

No, I don't really dress up.
This is me all year round.

Jeans and shirt.

I mean, I think the most I'll do
is put a woolly hat on!

At most festive parties, I like to
dress with reindeer antlers

and nothing else.
Ooh!

Why have you chosen
a festive party dress?

We want to test them
on some different types of fabric.

So, traditionally, your winter party
dress might be in something

a little heavier, a bit more
opulent, like velvet or brocade.

Why are these fabrics harder to use
than the stuff they've been

using before?

Pressing it can be very difficult
and sewing and cutting it.

Velvet, when you're sewing,

it can move along.

Satin, also, you have to be careful.

Any kind of slight
puckering really shows.

We've asked them for
a festive dress.

This needs to be a celebration.
And festive and fun.

I loved our Christmas
party last year.

Just remembering Patrick's punch.
To be fair, I did deserve it.

Be about knee length.

Yeah. I think that'll be nice as...

Cos you don't want it too short
in winter, do you? No.

Not only does the ultimate festive
winter party dress have to be

glamorous enough to stand
out in a sparkly crowd...

She's going to
look like a Christmas tree.

..it has to allow the wearer

to throw serious shapes
on the dance floor...

For festivities, it's quite a good
idea, I think,

to have some room in your dress.

..and be warm enough
to fight off the frost.

Winter can be brutal,

and if you're not warm, you're not
going to enjoy that party.

I used to be a bit of a hardy
northerner who could go out

without a jacket on,
but I'm not 21 any more.

I can't cope with the cold.

Cos it's winter, I've gone
for a bit of comfort and warmth.

The fabric is like a tweedy wool.

I've got to pattern match it.
So, this is a rough sketch.

I mean, it's a bit...

It's a bit laughable but, you know.

That's what it's going to look like.

It's suitable for work and parties.

Damien's adaptable winter party
dress will see a purple satin

facing to contrast with his grey,
purple check tweed,

and it'll feature
a bold open-ended zip.

It's a two way zip,
so it comes down like that,

so it can come up for parties,

and down for parties.

Or for business,
it's straight up to the top.

I mean, it's very dangerous.

It's going to be so visible...
Yeah, that's it.

..if you don't sew it correctly.

But I want it to make the dress,
if you know what I mean.

Damien's not the only sewer going
from the desk to the dance floor.

So, my idea is that it's
for an office Christmas party.

I see. And she's the boss and she's
just come from a big meeting,

and she's going straight
to the party.

I was inspired by a dress
that Villanelle wore...

Oh, yes. Back to k*lling Eve.
Back to k*lling Eve.

Should we be worried about your
obsession with m*rder, or...?

I'm not obsessed with m*rder.
I'm just obsessed with her wardrobe.

For her assassin-inspired look,

Serena's adding asymmetric cuffs
and shoulder darts

to her double-breasted blazer dress,

made from shiny,
emerald green satin.

Chose this fabric for the colour.

When it arrived,
it was actually really floaty,

so it was way too thin, so I had to
block fuse it with interfaces,

so it's got a bit of structure
to it.

I love the way it looks.

It gives it that opulent,
expensive feel.

Yes!

Fabulous winter party frocks

require luxurious fabrics.

Traditionally, brocade is
a symbol of opulence and richness.

I just love the velvet

and expensive, quality fabrics.

But these delicate materials
must be handled with caution.

Because it's satin,
everything stands out.

You can kind of see that's what
these sort of bobbly bits are,

where the interfacing on the back
isn't quite fused.

That's a bit of a shame.

Ooh. Stress already.

Stretchy and velvet is double
the trickiness.

It has a tendency
to shift as it sews.

It's like a diva.

Just like the dress
is going to become.

Farie's demanding stretchy velvet
frock will feature a pleated bodice,

balloon sleeves, and a tie at the
waist for a figure-hugging look.

It will be a tight fit.
The stretching will help.

And also the waist tie
is going to add a bit more

cinching in at the waist,

and after you've had your
Christmas dinner,

you just let it loose a little bit
and still look stylish.

Farie's isn't the only purple
velvet in the sewing room.

So, I've gone for a 100%
cotton velvet.

If you like, the best that money can
buy for the budget for this dress.

Wanted that sort of luxurious feel.

And you like purple?

I understand, Patrick,
that you're not necessarily a fan.

Purple, I'm less fond of,
and we've got two purples today.

It's a slight attempt, Patrick,
to get you to appreciate purple.

Right.

As well as trying to convert
Patrick to purple,

Andrew's hoping his fitted dress
will boost his quarterfinal

chances with cuffs adorned

with festive silver organza bows.

When the silver organza arrived...

Oh, dear.
Yeah. A little limp. Yes.

So, I'm going to go for -
sorry, Esme -

a slightly smaller bow.

Cos I actually think that is quite a
ridiculous size for your wrist.

I'm saying nothing.
Uh, no...

Anyway, a slightly smaller
bow using the velvet

and using some silver embroidery.

I'm going for small bows and purple.

That's a real judges' winner,
isn't it, that? Yeah.

Absolutely.
Tick, tick. Yes, well done.

After disappointing results
so far in winter week,

Raph's also pinning his
quarterfinal hopes on a bow.

I'm hoping Esme will be
impressed with this bow.

It is full of drama, this dress.

It's gold, first of all,
that's the first thing you notice,

and then there's also a bow on this.

What more can you add? Snow?

Made from a gold brocade,

Raph's dramatic festive dress will
feature a pleated front and pockets.

His bow will be sewn into the side
seams to form an elaborate belt.

Like a big present.
Like a big present...

Well, let's hope that the gift
the judges give to you

is garment of the week.
That'd be nice. That would be nice.

After yesterday, it would be grand.
Yeah.

Not your best day on the Sewing Bee.

Yesterday was quite bad.

Feel like today,
the bull's-eye is on me.

So, I'm all cut out.

What I'm going to do next
is to pin all the dress together

and then that'll give me the fit.

There's no room for error when
fitting their winter party dresses.

Be very careful.

It is full of pins.
Right.

Not only do these delicate fabrics
slip and stretch out of shape...

It can sort of start
moving around under its own steam.

They bruise and mark...

Any mistakes are so, so visible.

..so once stitched,
there's no going back...

I don't want to have to unpick.

..and every tiny adjustment
has to be right.

They are large back darts,
but if you need a large back dart,

you get a large back dart.

I think the fit has to be
close to the body but not too close.

You might be a bit loose at the top.

I could take out
some of the side seams.

But with two layers of fabric
to fit for her party frock,

Rebecca's job is twice as hard.

I've got to attach my lace overlay
all around the edge, so you've got

to make sure that you don't distort
any of the fabric when you do that.

I just want my fit to be spot-on.

Sitting under Rebecca's delicate
scalloped edge lace overlay

will be a thick green duchess satin,

pleated at the waist to create
a festive skater-style dress.

What makes it a skater dress?
It's a fitted bodice

that comes in at the waist
and then it goes out.

It's kind of flared, basically.

So, to go ice skating rather
than doing a half pipe...

Yeah, no.
..with Tony Hawk.

Something nice and delicate
and it gives, you know,

a really nice feminine shape.

Well, you've inspired me
to do some skating so I'm going to

get out there and hop on the old
board, like the good old days.

Sewers, you've had half your time!

# Rock the jungle boogie, rock... #

Finished sewing
the shell of my tuxedo dress,

so I've got the darts in
and the side seams done.

I'm going to start the collar
and the facing now.

I'm just joining
the skirt back together.

I'm doing it
so it's pattern matching,

so I hope it works out OK.

So, I've done three box pleats.

And what you achieve
is the fit at the waist,

and the bell shape in the skirt.

Does something to your eyes,
doesn't it?

You shall see.
I'm not sure I can!

So, the pleats will make the skirt
a lot more dramatic.

You can see already how much
it's poofing up.

While the other sewers in the room
are rocking on

with their winter party frocks...

Can kind of see that forms
that little lapel.

..Andrew and Farie are in danger
of missing the ball.

I'm just putting my pleats
in position.

It's literally slipping and sliding.

My back darts, if I've taken a bit
more in at one side than

the other side, and I want to make
sure that I make them symmetrical.

I need to use lots and lots of pins.

The dress will look amazing.
It'll be worth the pain.

This dress...

One hour remaining, sewers!

Instead of stitching
with the machine,

I'm just going to stitch straight
with the overlocker.

Can you hear the purring
of the overlockers?

Puurrrrr!

Now is the very tricky
bit of the invisible zip.

So, when I put the zip on now,
I'm pattern matching the front.

Got to make sure it's pretty
much bang on.

This is the key feature, yeah.

If the zip don't work,
I'm a bit snookered.

You do not want to put
a zip in the stretch velvet.

Uh, yeah. No.

Dammit. It's not good.

It's just a bit low.

I think it's cos I pinned it
vertically, if you like,

and it's capable of slipping
in that direction.

One side was slightly higher
than the other.

Unpicking one side
and doing it again.

I am in danger,
so it's really important to do well.

If I get a chance, I'll redo it,
but for now,

I need to get to a finished garment.

There you go. Party time.

What sort of parties do you go
to in the winter?

Uh, just the Christmas party at
work. Just the Christmas party.

Yeah. You don't go to any,
like, winter raves?

No.

When will I have time to
go for a winter rave?

This is hard going, this material
you're using, isn't it?

It is. It's stretchy velvet.

I know, why?
Have you lost your mind?

It's only when I woke up,
that's when I realised,

"Ah, it's a bit too late."

You're not worried

she's going to look like she works
at Cadbury World? Ha-ha!

So, I am matching my bodice

to my skirt.

So, these edges will be
caught in a side seams.

It's going to have lots of -
whoof - volume. I like that.

That's the word for volume -
whoof!

You have 30 minutes to go.

Nothing to do with me.

OK, you ready?
Hold it there.

The sewers now have just one last
chance to finesse the fit.

See how much I need to pin
it in at the side seams.

I might not have time
to fit my model,

but because I've got
a bit of stretch in there,

I'm hoping that will work.

Oh, my God, this could not have
fitted you better, I don't think.

Yes.

Wow.

Looks amazing.
Yeah. Woo!

I'm really,
really chuffed with it so far.

I was just worried that it was
going to be too small.

Oh, no, you joking?
Hang on, hang on.

Can try?

Let me breathe in.

Ready?
Oi, oi, oi.

Oh, it's the waist.
I don't want to...

..break it.

You won't.
Yes, yes, yes. You won't, it's fine.

Quite a squeeze to get in,
but we managed.

It's going to be a squeeze
to get out, as well!

It is creased,
but I haven't pressed through yet.

I'm now starting on my bows.

These have a certain
ecclesiastical look to them.

We live in a vicarage, so everything
is ecclesiastical in our house.

Just checking that it
hasn't burst?

It's not burst.

I might release them
by one centimetre, each of them.

OK.

So, I'm moving onto the sleeves now.

Need to put a dart
into the shoulders

as a way to make the shoulders
stick out a bit.

Just to add that sort of
boss energy.

I've got four pleats
and the cuff has got to look warm,

but also fabulous.

It's important to have long
sleeves in a winter dress, I think,

to just give it a bit more warmth.

Obviously, cos you're going outside

and probably kids will be throwing
snowballs at you. You never know.

Damien seems to be getting on OK.

And he has so far managed to do
a good fit.

Never enough pockets for women
in this world.

You can put your sausage
rolls in there.

I've seen Raph doing a fitting,
ever so slightly snug,

but I think he's got a pleat
that he can release a bit.

Andrew seems to be struggling
to get a good finish.

I mean,
a lot of the seams are very lumpy.

And Farie...

I actually haven't seen her try
it on her model once.

No, neither have I.

Hopefully I've made the pattern to
exactly my model's measurements.

15 minutes to go, sewers!

Just starting to get a bit panicky,

so you feel as though
you've got to rush.

We're just going to power through
it as fast as we can.

It's just my bias
binding at the top.

Think I might hand stitch it down.

Stiff as a board, that,
and that's going to be great.

Ooh, look at this bow!

Do you think it's big
enough for Esme?

If it was on here,
I would say it's not big enough,

but actually on there,
it's sort of fabulously big.

It's like a giant watch.

I'm making my covered buttons.

I just decided to make my life
really difficult.

Why have you got it
sitting on a lump on here

and not sitting
nicely on the mannequin?

Yes, let's get it on the mannequin.
Sorry, Patrick.

All that time pressing it.
I know.

Daddy's cross with you!

Should I do it up, Daddy?

If I were you, I would have a look
at this, rather than let him do it.

All right, OK.

Five minutes to go, sewers!

Speed hemming.

I swear this used to be faster.

Just like an asymmetrical hemline.

I'm doing a double turn hem.
Try and make it neat.

Uh-oh.

There's just a little tuck of fabric

I didn't cut at the bottom
of the pleat.

Giving my front an iron to try
and get rid of any bubbles.

There it is.
Looks like a big Christmas present!

Last minute, sewers!

OK. Let's get ready.

Let's get those models dressed.

There you are. Arm in there.

Yeah, I'll be with you in a minute,
Gloria.

Oh, it's that way.
We put it in the other.

Just step in.

Wow.

Those sleeves.

Yeah, she's going to the party.
She'll make it to the ball.

Needles up! That is your time.

It's good, that, isn't it? Wow.

Get your models ready to be
judged by Scrooge and King Herod.

I'm so happy. I've never been
so happy in my entire life.

I'm annoyed about the bubbliness,
but I love it. Yay!

Just ran out of time to press,
though, it's just such a shame.

There's always room to do better.

Well done.

# I love the winter weather

# So the two of us can get together

# There's nothing sweeter and finer

# When it's nice and cold
I can hold... #

Six festive winter party dresses

made in just five hours.

# I love the winter weather cos I've
got my love to keep me warm... #

Well done.

I think it's really, really sexy.

The stretch fabric would
sometimes hide a little bit

of imperfection in the fit,
but it doesn't look too tight,

and it doesn't look too
loose either.

It looks just right.

The slight drape really works
with the velvet. Yeah.

And how easy did you find this
to sew? It's hard.

It's definitely difficult.

I like the shape.

These pleats make a really good fit.

I knew you were going to go there!

We've got a little hole.

One of the pleats didn't quite
catch as I was overlocking.

I don't think it detracts too
much from what is

a pretty nice-looking garment.

Thank you.
Thank you.

# A girl's work is never done

# You boys think we are
having fun... #

The silhouette is
absolutely fantastic.

It's a really powerful,

very sexy, modern shape.

It's the boss at the Christmas
party.

I love that you've put this dart
into the shoulder.

I think it's fantastic.

I mean, it balances this high-low
hemline that you've got here.

I love the colour.
Really suits your model.

So vivid and so eye-catching,

but also so revealing.

You've got bubbles
in the interfacing.

It's really hard to make it
stick properly,

but I do think it's got
so much impact.

It's the finish

and it's to do with the fabric.

# Got myself a cryin', talkin'

# Sleepin', walkin', livin' doll

# Got to do my best
to please her... #

It's like dressed up Rebecca
and dressed down Rebecca,

side by side, and I can absolutely
see you wearing it.

The combination of this net
with the gold embroidery

over the top of that beautiful green
satin is so festive.

I'm very pleased that you
didn't flatten these pleats.

It looks really nicely sewn.
Thank you.

You've hand sewn all around
that neckline

and it was so worth that extra time
and that attention to detail.

It's such a stunning effect.
Thank you. Well done.

# A ring-a-ding ring-a-ding
everybody's having a ball

# A ring-a-ding ring-a-ding
everybody's walking tall... #

It feels incredibly modern
with some really lovely,

quite historic reference points.

This lovely fanning sunray effect

on the front is absolutely stunning.

You've made the bow very much
part of the garment

by going into the side seam.

I love the way you've got
a pair of pleats here

and you've got them echoed
with the pleats on the front.

There's so much nice detailing and
you've handled this fabric so well.

The fit of it is fabulous.

We watched you struggle a little bit
with the size of it at the waist

and you look like you've just
released a couple of stitches here

to give it a fraction more room.

I'm glad that you did that because
it doesn't look too tight here now.

It's absolutely stunning.

I love it. I think it's terrific.

Well done.
Thank you.

And it's got pockets, look, Esme.
Yes.

I'm very impressed.

A bow and pockets!

It's a dress for you!

# Oh, lover, the snow is falling #

HE GASPS

# And the whole world kneels to pray

# Oh, tomorrow... #

Unfortunately, mid-walk,
we've lost a cuff bow.

Yes. I've deliberately
made them...optional.

To tell you the truth...
You don't like them either, do you?

Not really.

I think I would've liked them better

if they'd been actually part
of the garment somehow,

rather than plunked on.

The whole combination of colour
and trim is really festive looking.

The trouble with this fabric,

because it shows light
and dark on different angles,

the back looks lumpy and bumpy.

Velvet can be really tricky to sew.

Your zip's puckering.

One side is higher than the other.
Oh, right, yeah.

But your back darts are uneven.

There's quite a big
difference in height.

They're puckering.

I don't love purple,
but this feels very regal.

And I do like the hair accessory.

I think that's great.

Well done.
Thank you.

# Amber morning glow

# Creeping down inside my soul

# Till I lose my self control... #

I think it's rubbish...

THEY LAUGH

It's fantastic.

Very, very good indeed.

It looks incredibly elegant
and also quite sexy.

It's a fantastic fit.

Great choice of fabrics.

I love the contrast with this purple
inside that picks up the check.

The level of finish,

you have matched those checks all
the way round the skirt impeccably.

I think it's a great choice of zip.

That big tooth looks very modern.

It looks like a dress
you would wear to dinner

or if we lower the zip and we
higher it here, it's more party.

It's more party.

I mean, this is the best thing
you've sewn by such a huge margin.

It feels that way, yeah.

It looks absolutely knockout.

Wow. Thank you.

Wow is right. Yeah. It's a real wow.

That was absolutely fantastic.

I've got a wow from Patrick. Wow!

They loved the pockets and the bow.
I'm really pleased.

I think I've pulled it back
together.

After yesterday,
I was really worried.

Ooh, that wasn't very good, was it?
My bow fell off.

They didn't like it,
did they, really?

It would be good to make it,
but I think I'm at the point where

I'm actually just proud of how much
I've grown during this process.

It's the end of winter week.

Who's staying with us
by the campfire

and who are we leaving
by the hillside to freeze to death?

There were three fantastic
made to measures, I think.

Raph's made to measure was stunning.

That bow gave it something
really special.

Damien's made to measure
was so superior

to anything he's given us before.

It fitted absolutely perfectly.

So, who else?
Rebecca excelled herself.

The fabric combination
works so well.

So, we have three remaining sewers.

Are they all in contention
for going home? No.

Because I think Serena has done
more than enough.

Her made to measure was ambitious,
didn't quite pull it off,

but it was certainly good
enough to see... Yes.

..her through into the quarterfinal.
And such impact.

So, it's down to Farie and Andrew.
Yes.

It is.
And it's difficult.

Farie, the fit was great,
the style felt modern.

You could see someone at a party
wearing that.

Andrew's...
Such a shame.

He didn't make the bows

as an integral part of the garment.

So, we have a very difficult
decision.

Farie has really knocked our socks
off with the transformation,

but has done incredibly poorly
in one challenge.

And then you've got Andrew,
who has mostly sat in the middle.

It's incredibly close to call.
Yeah. Really, really close.

Well, sewers,
what a wild week that was.

Two final things to do.

Reveal garment of the week,
which is the fun thing.

Patrick?

Our garment of the week this week,

and it was an incredibly
close run thing, is...

It's Raph.

APPLAUSE

Wow. Thank you.

Aw, Damien.

Nice one, Raph.

Sorry, Damien.

Honestly, Raph,
it was so beautifully done.

It was so modern,
so elegant, it had such impact.

Well done.
Thank you. Yeah, well done.

Thank you very much.

Unfortunately, only five of you can
come through to the quarterfinal.

Somebody has to go home.

And that person is...

..Andrew.

Yeah. That's fine.

I know why.

Oh, a bit gutted but, you know,
it was my time this time.

It's been great getting to know
these guys.

They've got so much talent
and knowledge between them.

It's going to be a bit of a wrench
to leave everyone,

but I am proud of myself.

This has been a really
terrific experience.

A chance of a lifetime.

We will miss your terrible
dad jokes.

Really sad to see Andrew leave.

He's been such a joyous
personality in the sewing room,

but today his usual impeccable
sewing skills just deserted him.

There's the quarterfinal next week.

We've got a real selection
of exciting sewers,

so I'm really looking forward to it.

I'm very relieved. I'm very excited.

To still be here
and still be sewing seven weeks on,

it's just an amazing feeling.

Yesterday I had a terrible day.

And this morning
I felt terrible as well.

But right now, I'm splendid.

Sorry, Damien. Sorry.

No, it's OK.

THEY LAUGH

Yeah, Raph snatched
garment of the week off me.

Raph's garment was fantastic,
but, yeah, look at this now.

I'm in the quarterfinals.

What about that, then? Get in.

Next time...
Stress!

..we're off to the movies.

Let's have it.

The sewers have the time of
their lives...

Oh, my God,
I'm really fed up with this.

The hills are alive
in the transformation...

You can't beat a good hammer.

..and it's a disco diva inspired
made to measure.

Wow. It's absolutely breathtaking.

Who will end up on the red carpet?

Ostrich feathers?
Yeah. OK.

So, you're doing low-key, then...

And who will end up
on the cutting room floor?

This is proper Dreamgirls.

This is as Dreamgirls
as Dreamgirls gets.

Am I deluded? I'm not sure.