08x03 - Episode 3

[bunniefuu]

Aloha, and enjoy the balmy heat
of Summer Week.

We've been looking forward to this -

some rest and relaxation.

# We're all going on
a summer holiday... #

THUNDER RUMBLES

RECORD SCRATCH

That's more like it.

Welcome to
The Great British Sewing Bee.

Last time...
WHISTLE BLOWS

..it was Sports Week.

Yes, yes, yes!

Despite Brogan's personal best...

Looks super-sporty. It's terrific.

..it was Marni's Made To Measure...
Wahey!

..that clinched gold.
I wasn't expecting that.

And although Richy wasn't on form...

Is your model the same kind of
measurements as me? No.

..it was Chichi...
Mine is super-wonky.

..who didn't quite make it
over the finish line...

I think you gave yourself
quite a hard task.

..and became the second person
to leave The Sewing Bee.

Now...
Errrr...

You sound like the sewing machine!

..summer has arrived!
Ta-dah.

Brains boil in
the midi dress pattern...

I have no idea what I'm doing.
This is mad!

..temperatures soar...
Whoop!

..in the Transformation...

If you're on holiday,
you might want to be a bit saucy.

..and there's a barmy
Made To Measure...

It looks like Edward Scissorhands
has been in.

..fit for a glamorous getaway.

Oh, it looks a bit like a nappy.

Just don't sit down.

# In the summertime, when
the weather is hot

# You can stretch right up... #

It's Summer Week!

I absolutely love
everything about summer.

My ideal summer outfit is

a dress with lemons on it,

with huge puff sleeves!

I've made so many clothes
for my mum. But she's my mum,

she's going to say they're nice!

Well, she's not going to critique
you like judges. Thank goodness!

Pattern Challenge -
I thought it might

be something straightforward
like a pair of shorts.

I do not think they're that kind,

but one can only wish
and hope and pray.

# In the summertime, when
the weather is hot... #

There they are, our perfect ten.

Come forward, sewers.

# You got women, you got women
on your mind... #

This week,
we're going to be channelling

and celebrating summer.

Now, I feel I should clarify because
a lot of you are British -

summer is the much-loved hot season,
sometimes lasting for a day in June,

sometimes a whole weekend in August.

It's elusive, magical and short,

just like Esme, who's going to be
telling us about

the Pattern Challenge.
Right. Thank you.

Pass them round. Ooh!

It's a pattern for Brogan.
Literally!

Appropriately, we've got
a summer dress -

the bodice is shirred,

the sleeves are gathered

and it's midi length.
And because this is Summer Week,

we want you to choose a fabric
that's appropriate to the season.

You will need to consider
how the fabric looks

once it's been shirred.

In summary, your dress
should be summery.

You have 3.5 hours,

and your time starts now.

Ah!

Sorry!
CHUCKLES

Go for it!
Oh, is this too thin, do you think?

No, I think the thinner, the better.

For this challenge,
you want a fabric

that's going to gather
quite nicely.

You don't want something that's
going to be too bulky,

so this feels like
it's quite lightweight.

I think this challenge is made
for Brogan. It's very her.

It feels nice to know that others
have confidence in me.

I just don't want to
embarrass myself

by doing a really bad job.
SHE LAUGHS

So, I love this look.

It's very milkmaid on the pull.

Why have you chosen this dress
for Summer Week?

This style of dress has been
hugely popular

in the last couple of years.

The big puff sleeve,
the gathers -

all of that shape is coming from
the tension in that elastic

within the shirred section.

What is shirring?

It's where you have elastic

and, as you're sewing,
it gathers the fabric up,

but you still can stretch it.

It's really important you get
the tension right

for the shirring to work.

It's also important that they get
the rows of shirring straight

and that they get the spacing even,

and we've asked them to
give us 15 rows across

both the front and the back.

We've also asked them to put elastic
at the top of the sleeve

and elastic on the waist,

so quite tricky cos
they could catch the elastic

and then it probably won't stretch.

Yeah, they have to pay attention
to the tension. Definitely.

Otherwise, they'll come untensioned.

And that would be unintentional.

So I've gone for this, like...

I presume it's some kind of gauze.

A cow print? A splodge print?

Kind of reminds me of strawberries,
so kind of light, summery.

I've never shirred anything before.
I know the principle of it.

Putting it into practice
is quite a different thing.

Never really made a midi dress

before, don't know what shirring is,

but we'll see what I end up with
in 3.5 hours.

The dress starts with the front

and back bodice pieces

being gathered with 15 lines of

parallel shirring.

The bodice is then sewn together

at the side seams, the front

and back skirt pieces are joined,

gathered, elastic is inserted

at the waist and it's attached to

the bodice. The sleeves are shirred

at the cuffs and elastic

enclosed at the shoulder.

And finally, they're attached

to the bodice.

Well, I think we know...

We know how to shirr.

I do. Well, I've done it before.

I made two shirred dresses
like this at home.

And obviously, puffed sleeves
with elasticated gathers.

Yes, exactly. Yeah. Yep. I know!

And this fabric is a good choice.

Is it pure cotton? I think it might
have a little bit of linen in it.

Yeah. Well, we'd better
let you get on with it.

Yeah, we're expecting good things.
I know!

It's a very soft, drapey,
summery fabric.

And you can see, with gingham,
there's already straight lines,

so I'm kind of cheating
the system here

by just following the straight lines
as I shirr.

Hello, Steve. Hiya, all right?
So you've gone for this

fairly lightweight...
Yeah, lightweight polycotton.

I think it's a polycotton myself.
That's going to be for the skirt

portion and the sleeves.
Ooh! And then I'm going to use

this fabric for the shirring.

Ooh, I say! There's a lot of
action there, isn't there?

Never done shirring. Have you
ever sewn with elastic before?

I haven't sewn many dresses before.
OK, so you don't make many dresses

and you've never done shirring?
Nope. OK.

Recipe for success, I think.

It says, "There are
15 lines of shirring

"on the front and back pieces.

"You may wish to mark the
shirring onto the fabric,

"or you may wish
to freestyle the lines."

I've made notches in the side
of my pattern,

so I know where they should start,

and then you just have to keep an
eye on going in a straight line.

Is it quite a hard technique?
It's just the fact that you need to

get the tension right
in the fabric so that the elastic

gathers underneath.
So, yeah. I'm going to say, yeah.

And then, of course, you've got
the expert shirrer behind you.

I know! Literally, yeah! Yeah.

Alan Shirrer over there!

In your bobbin, you have really,
really thin elastic like this,

so instead of thread, you
have that in your machine.

And as you sew, it gathers
all the fabric up together.

And you have to put tension
from the elastic on there.

If the elastic is too loose...

Wind it really, really tight.

..the shirring won't be tight enough
to give the bodice

its required stretch and shape.

I have no idea what I'm doing.

This is mad!

Right, wish me luck! Wish me luck!

I'm just...

seeing if it shirrs.

And it...doesn't, so that's good.

Er...

If the tension on the machine
isn't correct...

I don't think it's gathering enough.

..the fabric will fail to shirr.

Brogan, how is your
shirring that thick?

Just keep playing about with it.

Mine's quite, like, stretchy.

My tension's on seven.

You know it's serious
when it's a tension seven.

THEY LAUGH
I know!

Tension seven.
Let's see what happens now.

We're shirring! Look at me shirr!

So that's my first-ever
row of shirring.

Ta-dah!

Creating one line of
perfect shirring

is difficult enough...

That doesn't sound good, does it?

..but the sewers must now replicate
the exact tension

in all 15 evenly-spaced lines.

We don't want wonky lines on
the dress, that's for sure.

You seem to be making
this look very easy.

I think it's because I've got

gingham, so I didn't really
have to mark the lines...

Yeah! ..on the fabric.

You're a genius!

I kind of am freestyling them,

but I think it's a little bit out.

Oh, my goodness.
That is really wide.

Look at that.
The bobbin gods are on my side.

Ah! What, it ran out,
just at the right point?

Just at the right time, yeah. Phew!

I wonder if there ARE bobbin gods.

They say there is.

I might be a bobbin atheist.

This country milkmaid-style dress
is on-trend today...

We're all like professionals here,
shirring away.

I know, just shirring away. Go, us!

..but its first fashion moment
was back in the late-1700s,

when the rural style was popularised
by Marie Antoinette,

causing one of the biggest scandals

of fashion history.

When she was sent

to France to marry the future King,

Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette entered
a world of unimaginable opulence.

She spent a lot of time
planning her wardrobe.

She was a real fashion icon.

Marie Antoinette had her own chateau

in the grounds of Versailles.

That was her place

to retreat.

It was where she left off
all of those grand robes

and put on something that was

her idea of the rural idyll.

It was dressing as a
kind of shepherdess.

In 1783,

when a painting of Marie Antoinette
posing in this pastoral fashion

appeared in the Louvre,

it caused an outrage.

In the portrait,
she's wearing a gown

of thin, white cotton muslin.

It's airy and loose,
it's cinched at the waist,

and it has these voluminous sleeves.

People were horrified.

Essentially, people were suggesting

she'd been painted in her underwear.

It became known as
la Chemise a la Reine,

or what we might call
the Queen's negligee.

The painting was removed,

but the Chemise a la Reine continued
to have a massive influence,

as fashion evolved
in the early-1800s.

This dress really sews the seeds
for the styles

that came to be regarded
as Regency -

empire line, high-waisted dresses
in cottons and muslins -

and became the fashionable
silhouette for everybody.

Thanks, in part, to the
period drama Bridgerton,

today, the pastoral-style
dress has made a comeback

and has never been more popular.

Hello, this is your
captain speaking.

We are currently cruising
at an altitude

of approximately two feet

and you are currently halfway
to your destination.

I repeat, you are halfway through.

I wish we had more time.

We have the front and back pieces.

It's not particularly even,
I can see that.

It's not the neatest. I had
a bit of a twisting episode.

See, the pattern's
slightly going off?

The tension must've been different.

Budgeted quite a lot of time
for the shirring,

so other people are a bit
further along than me.

While Steve races to catch up...

The cracks are starting
to show a bit, I think.

..the other sewers must join
their shirred panels together

to form the bodice.

Sits on the top and then it
stretches around...

I'm going to say here.

I have sewn the side seams
of the skirt together,

so I have this huge piece
of material,

and now we're going to gather it up

so it fits the same length
as the top.

Yep. The bodice is inside,
right now, the skirt.

You've got to pin it,
then evenly distribute

the gathers and make sure
the skirt actually fits.

As you can see, it is not fun.

I'm really struggling with this.

It doesn't look like other people's.

I think I've done something wrong,
and I don't know what it is.

There was no need to gather
my skirt, for some reason,

so I'm trying to undo
some of the gathering

and trying to make this fit.
I think I'll be lucky to have

something that even resembles
a top by the end of this.

I'm going to try and
stitch this together without

messing up my gathers.

As the sewers attach the bodice
to the skirt...

Oh, I forgot to put the elastic in!

..they must also create
an elasticated waistband.

The key to getting this bit right
is to not catch the elastic

because then, it won't move round
in the channel.

If the elastic is caught...

My worry is my channel's
not wide enough.

..they could end up with tucks,
resulting in a lumpy waistband.

How to ruin something.

I don't understand the
instructions too well,

so I'm kind of freestyling it.
Mine's not distributing round.

It's all bunched up here.

Well, it looks...

Well, it's done.

I am just sorting out
the skirt part.

There needs to be gathers.
It's a disaster.

This is your captain speaking.

We have half an hour until landing.

We are onto the sleeves.

Once hemmed and shirred
at the cuffs...

Have to do three rows of shirring.

..the sewers must create the
all-important puffed sleeves.

How are we meant to feed through
the elastic? It's on a curve.

Just come out!

My top tip for threading elastic
is always using a safety pin.

My safety pin got stuck in,
so I had to cut it out.

I might just sew some elastic
over the top of it.

We've got some sleeves. I've just
seen the word shirring again.

It's going to be the worst thing
that I've ever made, by quite a way.

Hey, Man Yee, how's it going?

Errr...

Not great.
You sound like the sewing machine!

This is it.

So now, all I need to do is the hem.
It says to overlock

the top edge of the sleeve head,
and I'm not 100% sure what that is.

OK. The sleeve head. Does anyone
know what a sleeve head is?

The head of the sleeve.
It's the head of a sleeve, Steve.

What, that bit? Come on, machine.
Faster, faster, faster, faster.

Five minutes! Wow.

SHE CHUCKLES

I've finished.

So I've got half a dress
without one sleeve in.

Just put one sleeve on.
How does it attach?

You literally just
meet them together.

Yeah? And there, that's it. Oh,
OK. All right. Cool, cool, cool.

Oh, she's a bit skewwhiff,
isn't she?

One minute!

Uh...

I'm pretty sure that there's not
supposed to be a gap there.

Do you have some pins?

This is an absolute howler.

Needles up, sewers!

Ah! That's fine. Cheers, man.

We've arrived at our destination
bang on time

and, embarrassingly, everyone's
turned up in the same dress.

Can you bring your mannequins
forward for judging, please?

It's really messy. Probably not
as messy as this one, though.

It's cool, though.
It's like ten Brogans in a row.

# Why do you build me up
Build me up

# Buttercup, baby

# Just to let me down... #

Ten shirred midi dresses,

made in just 3.5 hours.

But what will the judges think?

A lot of you have never done
shirring before,

so I'm really impressed.

# ..More than anyone, darlin'

# You know that I have
from the start

# So build me up

# Build me up... #

Very wise choice of fabric -
light, soft cotton lawn.

Your shirring - you can see a few
lines are wobbling here and there,

but it's doing what it needs to do,

which is gather in that bodice.

Both of those look even.

Good tension on that.

The elastic on the waist
is really fitting the body.

I'm really impressed, actually.
Thank you.

The shirring overall
is pretty straight.

We have a few holes,

where you've put the elastic.

I guess towards the end,
you were maybe running out of time.

Your shirring is a bit off.

Your elastic is not caught in here.

I mean, it's all together. Just.

Just. At the back,
you've got these giant tucks.

I like the fabric.
It would've been fabulous

if it was done properly, I think.

Nice tension on the elastic.
That's doing its job nicely.

This looks not tight enough
at the back, the shirring.

But overall, I think
it looks pretty good.

The shirring isn't bad.

It's just a shame that some of
the bits where you've lost tension

are right in the centre,
on the front.

What's happened here?

Yeah, we've got...
Don't look at that bit.

ESME LAUGHS

Something majorly went wrong here.

That shirred panel
actually looks pretty good.

You have not created a
channel for the elastic

on the top of the sleeve so,
actually, what we've got is a frill.

You've caught the elastic here.

I'm just amazed I've got a dress.

Your rows of shirring
are really well spaced

and incredibly straight.

The elastic that you've put in here
looks very neat.

I could easily see that on the rail
of quite an expensive clothing shop.

Thank you.

The space between the
bottom row of shirring

and the waistband
is eight centimetres.

Obviously, I've marked it wrong.
Yes. It's a great choice of colour,

but you have just made
a big mistake there. Yes.

Let's have a look at the shoulders.

Very good. The shirring across
the front isn't perfectly even,

but it's doing its job.

I think it looks very good.
Thank you.

Well...

I'm not sure if
you're allowed to say

what you want to say on here.

LAUGHTER

Some of that shirring
in the middle section isn't bad,

but that's the only bit of this
dress, really, that isn't bad.

Ooh!

It's like a puzzle, isn't it?
To find the holes.

Yeah, I think we just have to
chalk this one up

to experience and move on.

Patrick and Esme will now rank

the shirred midi dresses
from tenth...

It doesn't look great
round the waist.

..to first.

In tenth place, I think
the person knows who it is.

Steve, you didn't finish.

In ninth place, it's Richy.

You just had a bit of a struggle

getting it all together, and
it shows. Eighth place is Debra.

You left a huge chunk of
unshirred fabric at the bottom.

Annie is seventh.

Sixth is Gill.

Man Yee is fifth.

Angela, fourth.

And Cristian is in third place.

Second is...

..Marni. I mean, you'd never done
shirring before

and it looks brilliant.

Which means, in first place, Brogan.

Beautiful, light,
brilliantly shirred -

everything about it was perfection.
Well done. Thank you.

# Everybody's doin'
a brand-new dance now... #

It felt so amazing to hear Patrick
say it was exceptional

and for Esme to say that the sewing
was really good.

Not my best challenge,
let's face it.

I got slated a little bit.
Feel a bit disappointed in myself,

but I'll pick myself up
and carry on.

They're not going to make
the Transformation easy.

It'll be something really bizarre.
Beach ba*ls. Frisbees.

The heat is about to be
turned up on Summer Week,

as the sewers are challenged
to get inventive.

Hello again, everyone. It's time now
for the Transformation Challenge,

where you are expected to
perform textile alchemy,

turning dull fabrics into spun gold.

Patrick, what's the plan?
Well, there'll be no time for

hanging around on this challenge.

We're giving you... Ah!

..a selection of old hammocks.
I think we've all indulged in

the fantasy of lying back
in our hammock, drinking c*ck,

but the reality is,
most of them probably end up

in the back of the shed.

We want you to turn your hammock
into an adult summer garment.

We also want you to use fringing,

rope and macrame,

but you cannot use any other fabric.

Now, Patrick and Esme are
heading off to Club Tropicana,

where all the drinks are free.
You have an hour and a half,

and your time starts now.

# Lazy, hazy, crazy days
of summer... #

Gosh, there's some colours here,

isn't there?
There's a lot of fabric.

Each hammock gives the sewers
over two metres of cotton canvas.

That's huge, Steve! It'll hopefully
be nice material to work with.

It's stable.
That's something I always like.

The typical hammock hangings
and adornments

provide extra textile.

Oh, that one's nice.

Rope, string, fringing
and decorative macrame.

I think the judges are
looking for a mix of both,

so it's how to incorporate that.

I don't own a hammock

and I've never dismantled
a hammock to wear.

It's odd, isn't it? But...true.

I really love this fabric. Yeah, I
mean, effectively, we've given them

a big textured canvas-y rectangle,

so you've got loads of scope to make
all sorts of different things.

And they've got to use
the trim of the hammock

somewhere in the garment. Yeah.
The cord and the macrame elements -

you could use them
just as decoration,

or you could create straps
with them.

I mean, this looks like
the top of a dress,

but I don't just want to see
them throwing this trim on

just for the sake of it.

No, it has to look part of the
garment. The important thing for me

is that it ends up looking
not like a hammock. Definitely.

My initial idea is a dress,

and I'm going to try and use
some of the tassel fringe

around the waist. I'm just draping
it on my stand at the moment,

but I really like the detail
it gives on the back,

so I'm trying to work round the rope
that's in it. My immediate thought

is a skirt,

and then this slit,
I might feed some rope through.

If you're on holiday, you might want
to be a bit saucy, you know?

Wear a huge slit in your skirt.

So I'm making, like, a holiday dress
to throw on over your bikini.

I'll use the rope to hold it up,
so it'll be like straps.

Hello, Man Yee. This looks
very relaxing to do on holiday.

I've always wanted to make, like,
a summer dress

with loads of straps on the back,
so I'm planning to use these strings

to kind of form the shoulder.

How many you'll do, four?
I'm going to do four for now.

I feel like if I do any more,
it might be a bit too excessive.

Yeah, I'll be blowing the whistle
and you'll go,

"I've just done my plaits!"
Then you'll have to wrap them round

the mannequin and say, "It's a very
hot summer, actually." Yeah.

Using their hammock ropes
as straps and ties

is proving a popular choice...

Going to make a skirt
and a gathered top.

It's gathered at the neck, I'm going
to use the rope from the hammock.

..but Angela is going all out,
with a decorative macrame panel.

I think this is going to go here,
at the front,

and this is going to go
round the neck.

I want it to be a bit over the top.

I actually made one of those macrame
plant pots recently, with WI.

They taught us some knots,
but I've forgotten them.

SHE LAUGHS

I've got a nice plant pot, though.

Brogan, you've got a skirt on your
mannequin already. Yes, I do!

I'm just sort of trying to do a
little bit of a tie-up detail.

What I'm getting is very sailor's
wife. She's really making an effort,

so that he comes home earlier
from fishing. Yeah.

Whilst most of the sewers are
creating skirts and dresses...

It'll be a dress, using the rope

to close one side of the neck.

..after this morning's
frocky horror show...

It's really important for me
to do well in this challenge.

..Steve is going for
something different.

I've decided to go for
a top and shorts.

I just want to do something that was
a bit better than that dress.

The trick is to make something
that doesn't look like a hammock.

"It used to be a hammock."
Like, "Oh, my God!"

Not like, "Clearly, you've wrapped
the hammock round yourself." Yeah.

"No-one's falling for
this, Barbara!" Yeah!

Cristian is hoping a spot of
tailoring will transport

his hammock from the back garden
to a muddy field.

So I decided it's going
to be a festival jacket.

I'm hoping that adding some
fringes would add even more

of that feel of festival.

You're halfway through your time.
You've got 45 minutes left.

I'm just going to throw
together a little top.

I'm just working on my top.

I tried to do different, like,
vertical and horizontal,

but I'm concerned about
how it will be received.

100%, there's a lot riding on it.

So I've kind of gone for
a longer drape this side

and a bit higher and wider
this side.

I've fitted the left-hand side,

and what's going to happen is,

that's going to happen.
So it's going to pull it in.

I'm just trying to pull in
a bit of the fullness

with these buttons, just to get
a bit more shape into it.

Just bringing it in on the neckline
a bit cos it's a bit, er, showy.

Make sure we've got no side boob.

Although, you know what?
If you tie anything tight enough,

they're not going anywhere.

Oop! Indecent.
SHE LAUGHS

15 minutes!

Uh! Time is running out!

Right, I need to add a trim.

More is always more.

Wonder if that would look nice.
I'm trying to think.

I might add the trim
to the top edge. Yeah.

I want to use the macra at the back
as a bit of a decoration.

I'm going to try and use that
as a belt round the waist.

I went with the mustard zip,

so I'm trying to add another
part of yellow to the jacket.

Is it a bit too low?

I quite like it. No, it's too low.

I'm going to put the string coming
through there so, like,

that's how you get in and out of
the garment. Five minutes!

Five minutes!

Bit of rope burn on your arms.

Ooh! This might've been
a terrible idea.

It's instantly falling apart.

Did add some trim, although
I think they'll just say,

"Why have you stuck this trim
on the bottom of here?"

It doesn't look like a hammock,
so I'm hoping it'll be OK.

It's so unique. Is that for when
you're dancing at the festival?

No, it's to tie... You're hitting
yourself in the eyes.

This was a pocket on the hammock

and I was thinking of making
a handbag to go with it,

which I might do. If I can run to
the haberdashery. I'll be back.

You have one minute left!

I love this attitude.

Richy's a crazy man.

I've still got to tuck this in.
I just need to tie a knot!

Sensible at the front, and then...

Stay still. Stay still.

Broke my needle! Needles up, sewers!

Your time is up.

Was going to be a handbag. I tried.
Please bring your mannequins forward

and muddle them up like it's the
dance floor of an 18 to 30s holiday.

# Tequila! #

A jumble of tired old hammocks

transformed into a range of sizzling

summerwear, in a mere 90 minutes.

Let's welcome back our judges.

Esme and Patrick
haven't a clue whose is whose.

You might need these.
Prepare to be dazzled.

I think this is fantastic.

And what I really like is the really
smart way they've used the cords

and the little wooden toggles.

And the back is
fantastically dramatic.

I wish there was
a piece of the macrame

somewhere on the front.

It's a top and a skirt. Yeah.

I love this stripe combination.

You get bits of vertical
and bits of horizontal.

This is lined up. Looks great.

The skirt has been laced,

using the rope

from the hammock, really nicely.

Another sundress. It's

the colours of
the Mediterranean summer.

Just wish it didn't have
the lacy bit. I do agree.

It's quite chic, but...
Yeah. ..this isn't.

Looks really wearable.

You've got the little fringing
at the bottom.

Again, I wonder whether it might

have looked nicer without that.

Here, we have

a pair of shorts and a little top.

The top, for me, lets it down.
It's not matched

and it's not off-set.

It's just all over the place.
But I do like the way they've done

the back. Almost feels like they
thought, "Oh, I'll use this piece,"

and they bunged the front on.

I really like the shape of it.

I like the use of the cord
to gather in this side. Also,

they've thought about the placement
of this lace.

So, this person

has made a jacket.

Wow, we've got a bit of binding
that matches the zip.

It's a really nice little detail.
I think they've thought

about this very, very cleverly,

with this really dramatic
fringed sleeve.

And look at... This lovely stripe.

Couldn't be less hammock-y
if it tried, really, could it?

I like it.

Look at that macrame at the back.

I like it too,
but I wish it didn't have

these loops on the edge.

If they'd thought about the finish,

I think it could have been

a little more pleasing on the eye.

We've got a wrap dress,
with a side tie,

and a belt made using the fringing

from the edge of the hammock.

I think the black looks a bit harsh.

A little bit un-summery for me.

I think this is fabulous

use of the macrame.

Another thing I really like,

they've made these little tucks,

so we get this wavy shape

at the bottom.

They've just given us
one extra little

detail with these
really chunky buttons,

which we've also got on the back.
It's very smart. Very.

The judges must now rank the summer
garments from worst to best.

In tenth place, it's the
green-and-purple shorts.

That's Steve. We thought
the shorts were great,

we just didn't love
the shape of the top.

In ninth place

is the pink dress.

That's Marni.

We just felt the black didn't work.

Gill is eighth. Annie, seventh.

Richy, sixth. Man Yee, fifth.

Debra is fourth.

And third is Cristian.

In second place...

..is the midnight blue
and white striped two-piece.

That's Brogan.

It's really nicely thought through,
very wearable.

Very well done. Thank you.

I wonder who's first!

APPLAUSE
Angela.

Love the placement of the macrame.

Very cool. We liked it a lot.
Thank you. Well done.

APPLAUSE
Yeah!

I honestly cannot believe
I've won a Transformation.

I think the family will be really
rather chuffed -

as well as somewhat surprised,
I would imagine!

Well done, gals.

I think today will go down
in history

for one of my favourite
days of The Sewing Bee.

I feel like I just need to keep up
this positive streak.

What can you say, really?
Everyone's was amazing.

It's like playing a football game
against a team with nine Ronaldos.

# I'm gonna raise a fuss, I'm gonna
raise a holler... #

There's one challenge
left in Summer Week,

after which, someone will win
Garment Of The Week

and someone else will
leave The Sewing Bee.

So, summer is supposed to be
a time for

lazing around and relaxing,
but we've been working

the sewers pretty hard, haven't we?
We have, and I think one or two of

them actually found it
particularly difficult yesterday.

I mean, Steve really messed up
that Pattern Challenge

and it was so far from finished.

Richy, I think, also struggled.

It was lumpy
and it was badly finished.

But I did like his Transformation.

And Steve's top was just a mess.

Steve had such a bad time
in both challenges.

Does that mean he's done?

We've seen people have disasters
in the Made To Measure before.

If Steve aces it today,

then he has got a chance of
staying in.

But I think somebody would have
to mess up to a similar degree

to Steve yesterday.

Good morning. Good morning.

How are you?

Hello, sewers!
And welcome back, models.

Now, when I say summer two-piece,

everyone thinks of the bikini,

but you're going to be making
a much more demure two-piece -

a trousered co-ord.

And remember, it has to fit
your model as perfectly as

this summer cake fits into my mouth.

MUFFLED: Perfect!

You have five hours...
SHE LAUGHS

..and your time starts now!

The sewers have had a chance
to practise at home.

I need to try this
around your waist.

Now they must precisely adjust
their patterns to fit their models.

We want it to be on the looser
side... Yeah, of course.

..cos it's meant to be, like, a
beach outfit. I love a two-piece.

Like, apart from dresses, I think
that's my favourite thing to wear,

is like matching tops and bottoms.

I just think it looks so cute.

With their range of styles,

trouser co-ord sets are
the ultimate in casual-cool.

The matching two-piece is proving
a hit on the high street

and popular on a certain
poolside dating show.

Look, it's like a textile
Love Island out there,

but who will be a perfect match
and who will be punching?

Oh, guys. Come over tonight
and we'll watch three series of

Love Island, then you'll understand.
Yes! Anyway, more importantly,

tell me about the co-ord.
The clue is in the title,

they need to be coordinated.
So they need to be coordinated in

the way they fit, they need to
be coordinated in their fabric,

they need to be coordinated
in their style.

So if you pick a design
that's really tricky

and a really tricky fabric,
you could really come unstuck.

What would you like to see?

Well, I would like to see something
chic that looks airy and summery.

I'd like something
that's got imagination,

a good choice of fabric and
well made. Well, let's go and see

how the others are cracking on
by the fire pit.

I mean, over there. It's
Love Island. Cracking on? Yeah.

What does that mean?

Oh, I see!

With free rein over
their fabric choice...

I have got a floral
patterned cotton.

..most of the sewers have opted
for cotton or natural fibres.

I've chosen linen cos I think
it's a nice summery fabric.

So this is my main fabric,

nice little toucan print on it.

Morning, Steve.
Morning. How are you?

This is good, innit? Yeah,
it's not bad. It's really jolly

and very bright and very summery.

What are you actually making?
So I'm going to make

a Cuban collared shirt
and a matching pair of shorts.

What inspired you?
I really like tropical prints.

But also, it's inspired by
Leonardo DiCaprio's outfits

from films. I made them! Really?

Yes! That is a coincidence.

Seriously, I'm not...

Yeah, I made them. Really?

I had to make ten, or something.
Yeah, yeah, yeah!

Steve's Leonardo DiCaprio shirt

will be paired with matching

elasticated shorts. He's also adding

a contrast green cotton at the hem

and the top of the shirt collar.

The contrast is on the rever,
is it? Yes!

Ooh, that is tough, though!
So that's going to be the collar.

OK. I mean, the danger with that is
you've got to get the edges

absolutely perfect. It's a risk,

but if you're down on points in the
ninth round, you've got to go for

the knockout in the tenth.
That is exactly right. There we go.

Absolutely.

Steve's not the only one placing
his faith in a bold men's co-ord.

I've decided to go with
the Cuban collar shirt

and matching shorts.

I would like to have
a contrasting collar and lapel,

and probably replicate that
on the shorts as well,

maybe on a turn-up.

Cristian's shorts will feature

side seam pockets, and he'll add

detail to his shirt

with rustic wooden buttons.

You and Steve are
the only sewers who are doing

menswear. Absolutely, yeah. Is there
any competition between you? Er...

Cos you're both really lovely guys.
Thank you. Thank you, Sara.

So I'm waiting for it to turn!

Cristian and Steve may have sought
inspiration from the tropics...

I would wear my Hawaiian
shirts anywhere -

weddings, birthdays, Tuesdays.

..but Debra is opting for
a staycation.

I live right by the sea

and do love looking at
the boats out there.

My husband sails a lot and I do
go in the boat from time to time,

and a lot of our friends
do it as well,

so it's a tribute to that lifestyle.

Debra's boat prints cotton poplin

will be used to create a vintage

look. To shape around the bust

and waist, she's using pleats.

I've gone for stable fabric,
so it'll hold the shape well

and show the sailing boats,

and won't interrupt them too much
with the pleating.

I've tried to place the boats out
in the pleated part.

Annie is also hoping for
maximum impact

with the placement of her pattern.

I'm just making sure I get
some of the leaf on each breast,

so that it kind of like
looks quite nice.

I work with African wax cottons
quite a lot, especially for

summer. It's quite bright and
colourful, and just really fun.

Annie is pairing wide-leg trousers,

elasticated at the waist,

with a tie-front bralette top

that requires a close fit.

So, are you just going to base this
together, before you sew it all up?

I'm going to sew it, fit it.
What if it doesn't fit? Erm, well,

I did try the pattern pieces
on the model first...

OK. ..so I do feel like
it should be OK.

If it's too big, I can take it in.

If it's too small, then
I'll have to recut it.

Not everyone's picked
an easy-to-handle fabric.

Ooh! It's a really
nice medium satin,

so particularly hard to cut out.

But I love it so much, the print,

I just couldn't not use it.

But my main inspiration
was my time in Spain.

The Spanish women there
dressed up all the time.

They just wear
the most amazing outfits.

Brogan's elasticated,

wide-leg trousers will feature

a contrasting border, which will be

echoed in the bows of

her puff-sleeved bralette top.

That's the way I like to wear
my clothes as well... Yeah.

..to be honest.
I like bows and elasticated things.

Is there a nice big bow on the back
for Esme? There sure is. I mean,

I'm not sure if it will be
big enough for Esme.

We've never seen a bow big enough
for Esme yet.

Yet. One day, she'll finally go,
"Now, that's too big..." Too big!

..and we'll have reached the line.

Size also matters...

My trouser pattern is, like, huge.
..to Richy.

So my inspiration is
Sex and the City: The Movie,

where they went to Abu Dhabi.

My design is hareem-style pants,
pleated into the waist

and then gathered in a cuff,

so it's very summery, very light.

If you look at the fabric, it is,
like, super-lightweight.

Richy is also creating

a draping cowl neck crop top,

which ties in a bow at the back,

to balance his voluminous,

pleated hareem pants.

How many pleats have you got
in the front? 10, 11, 12,

13, 14, 15. Wow. On each side.

Where did this pattern come from?

Er, so I drafted
the whole pattern myself.

Wow. OK So...you've practised?

I've not practised
the trousers. What?!

And how well does this fabric
take a crease?

I've not checked that either.
I mean, this is ambitious.

It is ambitious, with the time.

I'm just, er, starting to put
the ties together now.

This top is quite fiddly.

It's the pleats across the front.
You've got to be careful

with the pleats because
you can distort sailing boats.

It's the trickiest part.

The top is quite a simple shell top.

There's literally
nowhere to hide in this.

Gill's peacock feather-print

shell top will be neatened with

a red bias binding, which she'll

match at the trousers' waistband.

So, I'm just attaching
the bias binding.

You need to be very neat
because it is on display.

Can't have any errors in it.
Otherwise, it'll be bye-bye, Gill.

This is a ribbing to
bring in the bottom

of the actual top,
so it just fits closer.

So what are you making?
Like a camisole top and straps,

and then a pair of pleat-front,
narrow-leg trousers.

Ooh! That sounds lovely. It sounds
quite chic. Hopefully. That was

one of the words the judges used
as they were looking for.

They used chic. Yeah.
They like chic.

To add her touch of sporty chic,

Marni is echoing the green

in the ribbing of her camisole

with green piping,

which she'll insert into

her trousers' side seams.

Definitely wear trousers.
Wouldn't wear a crop top, but, erm,

it's a model. She can rock it.

Richy, would you like
to try this on?

LAUGHTER
I'll give it a go.

It's a bit small for me, I think.
Oh, sorry!

I'm a 34 DD.

Ooh! Ooh! See, told you!

Now that I make my own clothes,

I feel like I've been
a bit more adventurous.

And I thought a bustier style is
kind of a bit on the risky side,

but I just wanted to make it!

Man Yee will team a pair of

lemon-print, box-pleated shorts

with a matching bustier.

It's a difficult fit, this top.
It is. I mean, looking round

the room, I don't think there's
anybody that's fitting anything

quite as difficult as this. Well,
if I can do it well, then hopefully,

I can amaze you guys, right?
Correct.

You're halfway through.

So are you!

Ah!

I'm pressing the top, to make sure
that my pattern matching works.

You see the boat matching there?

It's got sleeves!

I can use the eyes of the bird as,
like, placement for the buttons.

It's quite a complex lining,
and then this fabric is so slippery

to work with, and I don't think
I've quite mastered that yet.

For their relaxed-fit shirts,

Steve and Cristian have reached
the most challenging element

of their design -

the contrasting rever collar.

This is the facing that creates
that little triangle.

I'm just really nervous.
I just want to get it right.

It's very tricky because you need
to make sure that none of it

is showing on the other side,

so the crease is literally
right on the edge.

You'd think I've never sewn before
by how nervous I am.

As Steve and Cristian
tackle their collars,

Angela is taking on a different feat
of fabric engineering.

I'm making a top with ruffles
over it. I'm just doing

the armholes now, as you can see.

It's a bit of a...
SHE LAUGHS

A bit of a construction.

Angela will be challenging herself

further with wide-leg culottes,

complete with side pockets

and zip fly, to pair with

her frilly crop top.

This is when I know you've had
a busy day. Yeah. I know, that's it.

I am such an untidy sewer.
It looks like Edward Scissorhands

has been in, just with some linen.

I'm not sure I'm going to be able
to edge all those frills.

While Angela scuffles with
her ruffles...

If you could just hold it there.
Of course.

..the other sewers are about
to find out if their tops fit.

It goes on. That's good.
This is basically how tight it is,

and whether you can kind of get it
off... Pleats in the front work.

It's just this back needs taking in
a little bit more.

It's a very easy fix.

SHE LAUGHS
I say that with confidence.

I think it's a little tight,
to be fair,

over the chest.

Cos the bow's so heavy,
I think it's pulling it all down.

I just need to do something
with this bow.

Shorts. Trousers. Let's go!

Where was everything?

I'm just overlocking all my edges
to make sure it's going to be

finished nicely, and then I
can get on with just sewing

all the main seams together.
You can see the massive legs.

Started on my shorts and they've got
a yoke, which is that top bit here.

So I've given it a press. I'm just
topstitching these now as well.

My shorts are going to have this box
pleat on the front and the back,

so I'm just creating the pleats.

I've started the pleats
on the bottoms.

They should be pleated
into the waist,

so I'm just kind of working out
where they are -

and I don't really know
what I've done.

That goes to there.

I may not have actually
worked it out correctly.

Very, very short.

Having miscalculated the distance
between his pleats...

There is nothing I can do now.
..Richy has no choice

but to change his design.
Instead of a pleated waist,

it's going to be a gathered waist.

Richy, who has given himself an
incredibly difficult challenge,

seems to be struggling.
He has ditched the pleats.

He's not pleating the trousers
any more. He's just gathering.

This is why you should test
your pants.

The fabric looks like
it's really difficult to work with.

Have you seen the top?
It doesn't fit.

It was really tight.

By contrast, I think Steve's
getting on quite well.

The collar and rever on that
shirt... Oh, I agree.

..look really well sewn.
It looks good.

We said this morning that
the only way Steve would stay in

would be if he did really well
and somebody did really badly

and, at the moment,
there is a slim chance that

that might actually happen.
Yeah. Yeah, definitely.

You have half an hour left!

There's only 30 minutes left!

Got a zip to put in
and a top to adjust.

I should be right on time
to finish the shorts.

There's not much detail,
apart from the pockets.

We are putting in the elastic
for the waistband.

But luckily, it's like an
elasticated waistband, so it's not

like I've got to put a fly
in the middle of the back.

You've got to be really careful
putting a fly in,

so I've put one side in,

and then the other side
has got to be hidden.

I'm going to insert
my invisible zip.

How well that's going to be
inserted, I do not know.

The concealed zip is in,

and it matches, right there!

It's a fly, it works.

Is this on right? Usually, it just
slides straight up and over.

Why?

I've stitched my zip to
the wrong side.

I think I've sewn too close to
the teeth. Richy, I don't like

seeing you like this.
Shall I say relaxing things?

Oh, the sea is caressing the sand,

as the seagull dives into the water.

He's got a little fish.
The fish says, "Hey, Richy!"

Thank you.
"It's going to be all right."

I should do meditation tapes.

Ten minutes, everybody!

Ready to try on.

I think that's the right length
for them.

I'll just need to fix
that waistband.

The waistband is on.
I'm just doing the piping.

The zip is abandoned -
officially gone.

It's the quickest zip
I've ever put in in my life.

I'm never going to get
those frills done.

They'd fit me as well.

You've got one minute!

Get the models dressed!

Take your time.
Don't rip those shorts, man.

Ooh, it looks a bit like a nappy.

I'm going to have to pin you in it,
so just don't sit down.

Yeah, pull it down at the front.

Needles up, sewers,
you have finished

the Made To Measure!

Could have done it a bit smaller.

Do you think Esme'll notice?
SHE LAUGHS

We've gone for the same -

green collar, green cuffs!
That's so good!

Ten trousered summer co-ords...

..made in just five hours.

# Get your passport and your bikini

# You need a holiday, come see me

# I know you're tired of
the same old scenery

# And I could change all that
so easily

# Don't worry 'bout a thing, girl
Take a chance

# I'll take you to the
South of France, like Cannes

# And if anybody can, I can
We could go shopping in Milan

# I just hope you understand
I hope you see it clear

# It really don't matter
how far or near

# Cos there's no distance... #

I think the fit is terrific.

It looks effortless and relaxed.

I like that you've got
the turn-up and the collar and rever

in the same fabrics. The underneath

of the lapel shows slightly,

but I love the fabric

and I love that you've put

these wooden buttons on.

I could see you wearing it. I know,

yeah. It's very me, that. Yes, very!

The fabric choice is fantastic.

The fit is on the edge
but, actually, I think it works.

We haven't got... Much room. Yes.

How easy is it to get on and off?

It's a bit of a wriggle, isn't it?
Yeah. Is it?

But honestly, it looks great.
Thank you.

# Sunshine girl, I feel
your eyes on me

# Your looks excite me

# I wonder, can it be... #

You gave yourself
a really hard job for the fit

and it fits very nicely.

I really like these pleats.

I think they're a little small.

It ought to be able to sit closed
and it can't.

But overall, I think
it's really effective. Well done.

# She mesmerises with a smile

# The girl in

# The canary yellow dress... #

You've got
completely unfinished frills

and the top is way too short.

It needs to be coming

right underneath the bust.

We've got a big gap there.

Mm. It's a shame that
the top doesn't fit

because I do like your trousers.

They're a nice shape
and they look great in linen.

# What a day for a daydream

# And now I'm lost in a daydream

# Dreaming 'bout
my bundle of joy... #

I really like the fabric

and I think this rib's great.

I'd love to have seen this
with a red piping

because it disappears.

It looks a bit short in the crutch.

Can you see how
it's going between her buttocks?

# I have loved you more each day

# Walking back to happiness

# Woopah, oh, yeah, yeah

# Said goodbye to loneliness... #

They're two quite simple garments,

but the execution looks fantastic.

It fits very nicely
over her backside.

It's nice you put the red zip in,

and it goes up and down nicely.

I wish either the waistband
was the size of...

Yeah. ..the binding, or the binding
was deeper to match the waistband.

# Ole!

# The magic dance is
the cheeky flamenco

# The magic dance is
the cheeky flamenco... #

So, this was influenced by
your time living in Spain.

It does look very Spanish.

I think because it's slippery,
you've just dragged it

a little bit on the side seam
of those trousers.

I have a slight problem that
we've got a tie at the front

and a tie at the back. OK.

# Somewhere

# Beyond the sea

# Somewhere waiting for me... #

I love this fabric.

I really like that you've put
these little pleats in the front.

I love them. It's not the obvious

thing to do for the fit.

And we've got a fly at the front.

There's quite a lot of work in this.

You've thought very carefully.
This one big red sail down here,

where you didn't want that sail
to be interrupted.

And I think the fit of it is lovely.

I think it's very chic.

It could be, like, an Air France
uniform from the 1970s -

in the nicest possible way,
you know? First-class cabin.

It's not what
we would have imagined.

You've done something different.

Really looks
very, very smart indeed.

With a contrast rever,

you've got to be absolutely precise
on this edge.

There is just the merest slither

of that shirt showing, there.

The fit looks absolutely bang-on.

I mean, it shows what you can do
when you're with

a material and techniques that
you're comfortable with. One thing

I really notice is buttons. You've
really thought about where you've

placed them - you've placed them
where the toucan's eye would be.

Would you wear it? Yeah, damn right!

I'm taking it back after this.
THEY LAUGH

I think the trousers
do work extremely well.

They are not what you planned
to do. Not at all.

You were supposed to have 30 pleats?

You've ditched that and you've done
gathers instead.

There should be a zip... Oh, OK.

Does it work? No, it doesn't go up.

This was supposed to be a soft,

draping top but, unfortunately,

it's just too tight

around your chest.

Just doesn't feel like
it belongs to the same garment.

I think you had a bit of a problem
with the fabric.

Just a little.
And you didn't practise!

And that was my big downfall,
I think. Yes!

They were very fair with
what they said about the top.

It was probably, like, 6, 10,
maybe even 12 inches too tight.

It was actually tragic.
Like, tragic.

I honestly don't know if
I've done enough

to stay in The Sewing Bee.
If I go after that, I'm happy.

I couldn't have done
any more than that.

Brilliant, sewers.

We hope that you've been warmed
by Summer Week.

There are only two things left to
pack in the Sewing Bee suitcase.

First, Patrick, would you reveal
who has won Garment Of The Week?

Our Garment Of The Week this week...

Ooh, well done!
..Debra.

Wow! Thank you.

Debra, you make original,
beautiful clothes that we both

really like a lot. Yeah.

It was different
and very nicely made.

Thank you. Amongst some really
fantastic Made To Measures.

Doors to manual
is all I can think about!

We also have to say goodbye
to someone.

The person going home is...

..Richy.

Come on, give us a hug.

Very, very well done.

So well done.
I blame Sex In The City 2.

Yeah. It was awful inspiration,
wasn't it?

I feel sad that I'm going home,
but I deserved it.

I've enjoyed it immensely

and I've learnt a lot of things
from the other sewers.

Like, it is quite special, isn't it?

It's a shame Richy is going home

because Richy was beginning
to show some promise,

but Steve really turned it round.

And the buttons,
that was just brilliant!

I was 100% convinced that it was
going to be my name called out.

To, like, make it to week four,
that's nearly halfway!

That is mad!

Well done, Debs.

We've given Debra
Garment Of The Week

but there were five fantastic

Made To Measures today.
Any one of those

could have won it. It just makes it
a joy to be judging it.

Thank you, guys.

I can't believe what just happened!

I think my family are going to be
incredibly proud of me.

To get a second Garment Of The Week,
they're just going to be screaming!

Next time, the sewers reduce,

re-use and recycle their way

through a puzzling Pattern...

I have to make 96 decisions.

..a tussle in the Transformation...

There's been, like,
a battle between two coats.

..and a maxi Made To Measure.

On the verge of Bo Peep.

Who will be pick of the litter?

Who would think
that was a duvet cover?

And whose sewing dreams...

Really don't know what I'm doing.
..are heading for landfill?

I've done it wrong!
That's so annoying!